hey guys, so I’ve had a few builds where my cars are very unstable on the straights I.e: the slightest correction tends to create a fishtail or continues to pull in that direction. I always run aero on full cornering and other than that I’m a bit lost on how to correct it. As best I can see, the cars have too much power (worse 3 offenders were be beetle, comby van, and Datsun 510). I’m inclined to believe I’m putting too much power in them and there’s simply too much wheel spin even in higher gears but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions in tuning other than changing the build. My Datsun 510 was only A class, it had the last engine upgrade but no other engine upgrades and the rest was all handling upgrades and race tires etc and a sports trans and still had the same problem (though not as severe)
So… Any ideas like springs (soft, hard, front or rear bias) or damping maybe? I was running about 7-8 on rebound front and back and about 1/3 for bump. Springs were set to about half the default.
Are you using normal or simulation steering?.also tcs is an option with overpowered cars but you have to still drive with good throttle control.
softening the springs on the end thats giving first usually works well.
In addition to what freakinout1969 suggested, you might want to look at increasing front rebound (to help rear traction). How about your Diff Accel setting?..and…as mentioned, throttle control as you adjust directions.
My general approach to suspension tuning is to keep the alignment somewhat neutral (dialing in a little negative camber to the front, a little less to therwar, setting toe to 0, caster to 5.5-6.0, setting spring constants to half the weight suspended on that axle, shocks somewhat even with stiffer shocks for heavier and/or high-downforce cars, and to help limit suspension travel if necessary (though I usually find myself softening them if anything). Sway bars, I start with a neutral balance and also try to base on weight.
I ran into a problem a lot like what you’ve described when I promoted the old school Clio up to S2. It felt like throttle induced oversteer but didn’t have to be steering to do it. It was unmanageable on road and a Spinny mess off. I did a lot of work with the springs and shocks (and a little with the sway bars). I found that softening everything and raising the ride heights made it more manageable on the street but with a lot of focus on the diff settings, I got actually feeling pretty good on the pavement but still a mess in the rough. Going yet softer (more so on the rear) got it feeling pretty nice on the road and to where it wouldn’t spin out off road until I provided input.
I think the biggest thing was getting proper differential settings dialed in, and the for a help blurbs aren’t clear on how to do that. I ended with a f/r bias around 60%rear, set the rear accell to where a standing burnout just managed to spin both tires, rear decel to where braking wouldn’t snap me around, and fronts to where they would offer as much stability as they could without numbing turn-in.
My Datsun is behaving the same way, tuned it for drag and its just imposible to control, did a lot of tuning to see if it was the tune set up but it wasnt, so now Im sure its a game bug, hope they fix it soon.
Just really quick thinking here,
I drive with zero assists and simulation steering. My AWD S2 bug was a handful at first. Checked telemetry and it showed me all I needed to know. Her alignment for that power was poor.
Quick changes to camber, caster, and toe… she came right around. If it’s at high speeds, check out the caster and toe. Too much caster in an overpowered little thing easily creates instability. Same with loosing some camber and adjusting toe for stability.
I bet it’s between those
Trust me, it isn’t a game bug. A 300 hp Z or bug is a handful, 500 hp is ludicrous in real life. And so it should be in game too.
First thing that came to mind when reading your fist post is your differential settings. In the FWD thread you said you ran some of your cars with a 90% accel setting. This could be causing this problem if you have an unstable build.
If the car i unstable on straights at speed, also try moving the rear toe into the negative values. I don’t have the link for it now, but I did a bit of reading on this when learning how to tune the alignment. To put it in super simple terms:
Alignment Page:
Toe —> Shift right to increase turn in ability and stability in turning
Toe <— Shift left to increase straight line stability
Application:
Front —>
<— Rear
Why? Increase your cars ability to turn in and it grips well in the corners but it also maintains it’s straight line stability.
Also, I was unaware you drove with simulation steering - I would try normal. I just find it more enjoyable.