I’m stuck and in need of some tuning assistance. Whatever I try to do from this point seems to hinder my lap times. I’m reasonably happy with the car, it’s pretty quick but a bit of a handful when getting the power down. I’ve downloaded some tunes but they don’t seem to work for me. If anyone has got some time, could they try this setup and give me some advice.
I know its probably my driving skill, but it would be good to know if I’m setting the car up rightish or like a muppet
So far, on Sedona reverse 2.17.3. No assists, simulation steering and manual with clutch.
THANKS FOR READING
BUILD:
Race brakes, suspension, ARB’s, Chassis and Weight reduction
Race clutch, Transmission, Driveline and Diffs
Race tyre compound
Max. Front and rear tyre width, standard rims
Forza aero front and rear
Sport air filter
Race exhaust
Race camshaft
Race flywheel
TUNE:
Front tyre 28.5
Rear 28
Gearing 4.63 on final drive, rest untouched
Front camber -1.1
Rear camber -1.0
Toe and caster untouched
Front ARB 19.20
Rear ARB 3.2
Front springs 550.5
Rear springs 515
Ride height both 3.4
Front rebound 9.0, Bump 6.6
Rear rebound 8.4, Bump 6.5
Front aero 75
Rear aero 200
Braking balance 50
Pressure. 100
I tried adjusting brakes, but prefere the sharper feel
I really believe this car should be more of a monster than it is. I have an S700 tune with 500hp that only weighs 2,025 lbs. That’s basically 4 pounds per horsepower. Thing should be a rocket.
Anyhow, I put your build together with my Sagaris and it’s pretty close to mine. I’ve made some adjustments to the spring rates, damping, gearing, and diff settings. I’ll send you a friend request on XBL so I can gift you the tune. I will also put a couple tweaks on mine and maybe we can pit them against each other.
I have a few more small changes to make to the diff and I will try to post a time on Sedona Full Reverse.
EDIT: I’m down in the 2:18s with a bit left on the table.
Nice one redzed, be good to compare them side by side. I’ll probably be online when the boy has finished playing fifa and the kids are in bed 9.30-10ish GMT
Its partly due to your build. If an option get rid of race cam and race flywheel and use other motor upgrades (centrifugal supercharger is possible, fully upgraded to race. Remove race clutch and put it into lighter rims or more power. (you are using man w/clutch so this upgrade is useless other than the slight weight loss)
Lower your bumps both front and rear.
Would lower your rear springs quite a bit and then lower your decel to counter the impending understeer you are going to have. A car with this much power for its weight can probably have max front and rear aero and not slow the car down too much.
Do the cams make the power peaky? I’ll swap the clutch for the rims, didn’t know it wasn’t needed.
The car has good front grip, so how does lowering the rear spring weight give understeer? Sorry for all the questions but I’d like to learn the physics and understand more about it all.
Lowering spring weight in the rear is going to shift the balance of the car towards the rear, this will give the rear more grip in turn will reduce turn in and grip from the front. Depending how drastically you do it the car could be fine, but those decel numbers still seem very high.
Cams shift the power curve beyond an usable area for most cars. It does look good but it stretches out ur power band a bit too much and costs a ton of pi. (partially because of the pi system, it adds speed which is valued highly to the pi system.) So although it does add speed it doesnt add great acceleration for the value. Accell is the most valued part to the game, and then grip, unless u are talking about tracks like lemans.
The flywheel is the same deal, it drops a few pounds but is expensive in terms of pi, you could probably lose 15-20 lbs by putting on different rims apposed to putting on the flywheel.
I stripped all of the parts off the car and installed just race cams. To me, the power curve looks good and the area under the curve is fit for a great circuit racer.
As far as the wheels go, it is beneficial, at least in real world tuning, to reduce unsprung weight as it can improve traction and reduce rotational inertia, which can improve braking. In Forza, using aftermarket wheels is usually one of the biggest weight savings. It’s also probably why my turbocharged build weighs less than your NA build. I’ll try to be on around 2:30 MST (should be 9:30 your time) and we can look at the build and tune. My car is feeling a bit looser than it was last night (?), so I have a bit of work left to do.
Unless building a lemans speed build stray away from the cams. Not very beneficial and very expensive. Instead look for motor parts which give you power and reduce weight.
This is only true for some cars. Other cars will actually benefit from race cams since they offer the most horsepower per unit of torque, and despite the game valuing torque heavily in your build, it doesn’t impact your performance on track even a fraction of that amount in the game. This happens to be one of those cars that will get maximum power by using race camshafts. There are also some cars that actually experience a PI drop when adding a sport transmission after adding a race camshaft. A prime example of this is the R2 build for the Joss JT1. This Sagaris also happens to be one of those cars. This car’s power band is wide enough to accommodate a sport transmission with ease, but the shift points on track with it are inconvenient, so a race transmission here isn’t a bad idea… Removing the clutch and flywheel will also give you more PI room - use that for lighter rims or more power.
I ran the car exactly as you posted it and ran a 2:13.675. Just by rebuilding it I shaved a few tenths off, so now I’m going to tweak the settings a bit to my liking and see if it’ll do a 2:12.9 or better. I’ll be back in a bit with results!
And I was going to post about being happy to dip into the 2:17s in Test Drive mode. Still only have a 2:18.050 real time, but that’s with my build. Guess I gotta keep trying…
Likewise, redzed. I was happy in the 2.17’s, its pretty demoralising to know that Bulin can go that much quicker on a tune he doesn’t know!!! Respect man.
I ran my sagaris earlier today in a race on Sedona reverse. I have never done a single lap in the car on Sedona reverse (or any Sedona, for that matter) before that race, but somehow hit a 2.13.4 taking almost half a second off my previous best time on Sedona reverse. It was running great times almost everywhere, even though I tuned it only on Laguna. Frustrating car to use online racing though because it launches like a pig, haha. I had to be on form to take wins because I was racing quick players. Anyhow the the replay is 80th on the leaderboard at Sedona reverse. If I can get some guys together for collisions off races later i’m sure I can hit a 2.12, the lap didn’t feel too good. Might have to make 3rd gear shorter.
Agreed. I very rarely use race cams unless the build is for top speed. I go for torque parts that improve acceleration. I was just responding to his question about race cams resulting in peakiness, which they don’t on this particular car.
I already have a low 2:12 in an F1 GT, so the ghost isn’t available, but I can run it again and put my replay on my storefront. One other interesting thing I tried was that I took the front aero upgrade off entirely. It essentially had no effect on my time, but I found that the car was more agreeable, and I can probably tune it more aggressively now to get more out of it without the tires scrubbing. I got the idea from the Noble M600 in R3, and I’m pleasantly surprised with how it turned out here.
Could you putthe replay on your sf, I’d be inteested in studying it. Still cant get my head around the fact that your on average over .5sec faster through every corner!
Yeah it is a pig to launch, usually ends with a couple of shunts and pointing the wrong way! I’ll look up your ghost on the LB and try work out where I loose time, its really frustrating as 4 secs in a lap is not even close.
It is a pig to launch, usually get shunted and end up pointing the wrong way. I’ll look up your ghost to see what I’m doing wrong. 4 secs is a lot to loose in a lap, its not even close!
I’ve just done a couple of 6 lap collisions off races. Not much fun because I hate this track. I improved my time to 2.13.179 which is now 57th on the leaderboard. My club mate actually did a 2.12.889 with the sagaris but he already had a faster time from the previous race where he used the Devon GTX, so it’s not on the leaderboard. I’m usually .5 faster than him too. There should be a good 12.5 in the car. I love driving it, it’s rewarding. You should be able to get some good ideas of gear selection, gear lengths, build etc from the replay. Hope it helps.