I do single player only. Win a lot of races on unbeatable.
There is definitely a difference as mentioned in the first post of that very large thread on FFB you’re probably referring to.
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Just keep on reading, its a long post... have you tried if there is a difference? I must say I cant find no difference at all. In older titles the difference was obvious and steering with wheel was too yammy for me with normal.
Yes I’ve tried it. Yes I actually tend to use Simulation more often than not these days on my wheel - there is a difference.
If that`s the case, they must have make the change in some update…
I,ve test it on the bounty hunter race this month. Ran a lot of laps on sim it was hard to keep from spinning out. Stop and changed to normal was able to catch the car 95% of the time. It’s a good car to test this on because it’s a hard car to drive, because you can’t tune it.
Thank you, everyone, for your polite and thoughtful responses.
I have tried quite a bit to tweak the settings, and I have some off the net that are decent. However, I can change FFB understeer from 0-200 and I will be honest I can’t feel a difference from 0 to 200 or anywhere in the middle. However, I’m not sure I can get the BBLM to understeer even if I jerk the wheel around, which I tried to do while experimenting with these settings.
Is the TMX with TP3 pedals an inferior wheel?
Is there a proven technique for developing wheel settings? Perhaps I should be in a FWD car? I can feel torque steer with the Integra Type-R and curbs with everything, but as far as feeling front grip and knowing how to manage it, I get nothing thru the wheel.
Also If anyone is near Albany NY I would love to have a local person to converse with.
Thank you all.
To OP: I have the exact same impression as you. My solution is to play Forza with a gamepad, and play Project CARS 2 with the steering wheel.
Forza has this super duper gamepad drive-by-wire system that makes it stupid easy to drive with a gamepad. It’s like flying the F-16, where if you pull the stick to max then you get the precise max performance turn every single time - no stalling and no over-G. I’ve given up fighting it.
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This game is so disappointing. I don’t think I have ever been so polarized on a game before. On the one hand the game is pure art. Every pixel is beautiful. It’s as if they subcontracted out the graphics, and the actual menus, gameplay, and player experience were not given even the slightest consideration at any point. The menu system alone is maddening to the point where I often yell at the screen when trying to set up a single player game.
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It tries to change the track EVERY time. Here is a newsflash for you Turn 10, I have the controller. I input the settings. I don’t want you to change ANYTHING.
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Sometimes I simply can’t add rival cars. Sometimes I can. This seems random.
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I can’t qualify for any race of any kind. Why must I start at the back of every single race?
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I cant adjust the tire noise relative to the engine noise. I would really like less crappy engine drone and be able to hear when the tires are losing grip.
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I can’t configure the HUD at all. Want the G meter? Well you get nothing else.
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Oh you want to see your lateral-G and brake down to the correct apex speed at the same time? No. You cant have a speedo, you should guess your speed. Perhaps I could use the “feel” of the wheel to guess my speed.
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How many times should I have to click start race? 4,5, 112??
I am so infuriated. I did some back to back testing, and I am absurdly faster with the controller, with no steering input, my thumb smashing between left and right lock with no finesse, and the game thinks I am Fangio. If I use the wheel, feather every input with perfect smoothness, and I am slower than molasses in January.
Why bother? The game is ruined.
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(sorry, this is off-topic from the OP)
I agree with pretty much all your points. Your comment about subcontracting makes the assumption that they subcontracted out the “good bits”, and the bad bits are Turn 10’s fault. The entire game has Turn 10’s name on it, so they have to take responsibility for everything, good and bad. Blaming subcontractors, whether it is true or not, is unacceptable. I do agree that the game’s menuing feels inconsistently designed. The track-reset in free-play drives me nuts. I wish the car-select screen would always remember my position in the menus so I don’t constantly have to navigate back to a particular manufacturer.
One menuing area that drives me nuts: car selection.
-go to manufacturer.
-Realize you don’t own the car you want to drive.
-Click the “buy” (or rent) under that manufacturer.
- It completely resets your position in the car selection menus.
- I have to navigate back to the manufacturer where I just was.
Then in the “my garage” the buy option doesn’t even show up. I have to navigate back to the root menu to go to “buy car”.
I can’t seem to buy cars from the “my collection” UI. Why not? What purpose does this UI even serve? I guess it shows you what cars you do/don’t ownm but if I it doesn’t allow me to buy the cars I don’t own then it just makes for a frustrating UX.
Just have ONE car select screen that shows all cars and make a toggle to show owned/unowned, with a single “buy” button press (with confirmation).
Our group founder at FACR is a wheel user and a pretty fast one at that. Along with creating the FACR tuning calculator, he has done a lot of testing in regards to wheel settings.
A long time advocate of normal steering, he’s recently created a video and settings for sim steering.
I’d highly recommend trying them out.
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Thank you!
I tried these settings and they work pretty well. Not much different from where I was before from some other setup videos.
I guess what I really want is to be able have is a proportionality of wheel weight with the lateral G of the car, but there seems to be no connection.
I feel things would be a lot better if the wheel itself was more powerful, but once again the curb jolts are 3-4 times as forceful as the grip resistance, and I just don’t see how that is helpful at all.
I ran an experiment last night:
Indy Car X999 Stock. WGI Full
TCS on
else off.
My wheel: 1:36:0
The controller: 1:35.3
So I am .7 seconds slower with the wheel. Horrible.
Mind you, Watkins Glen is my home track. I have probably 20 days there actually racing real cars. I know it well. My wheel inputs are good.
I am amazed by just how much better the car turns in with the controller when compared to the wheel. The difference is night and day. I was in sim for the wheel, normal for the controller.
If I could replicate the turn in of the controller with the wheel I would enjoy the game so much more. The car just does not behave properly with the wheel, and yet there is no joy in steering with the controller. It’s a horrible catch-22
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Ive tried normal twice, once with F6 ang it was awful. Sencond time was 6 moths ago with this title and there was no effect... Maybe should give another try. But to the starter of this post it makes no difference - if you use wheel, absolutely sim and lots of practice. Its mostly muscle memory…
F Picha:
Apologies if you mentioned this already but have you tried Project Cars 2 ?
Also, it might seem minor but what firmware is your wheel base using ?
(I’ve got a TX on v53)
Cheers for the thread, going to try out some suggestions.
I have a Thrustmaster TMX with the TP3 pro pedals (conical rubber brake mod)
I have not done anything with the firmware, I am using it out of the box. Is there something I can do for the firmware with this wheel and the X Box one? I thought the firmware was just for computer users? I could plug the wheel into my laptop to update it? it feels WEAK.
Thank you.
Update it via a computer to v53 (obviously not possible via xbox).
There is some kind of positive difference, I don’t know what it is as the notes don’t really say.
I updated to driver 2.10.9.0
I should have played for an hour or so to compare if there was any difference, but I did not. So my impressions can be taken with a grain of salt.
The new drivers I am not sure what they did, but after installing the Thrustmaster control panel I noticed the out of the box configuration has max force set to 75%, and I increased this to 100% in the software and reflashed the drivers. To me, the wheel does feel stronger, but again I have no direct measurement but I felt it was pretty noticeable. Some of the stuff in the noise floor before was more distinct after setting it to 100% force.
Also interesting is the tune of the game to the wheel. When you go to wheel settings you can have the wheel shake and oscillate, and when doing this from the control panel the wheel is PLENTY strong, and it appears the game is just not requesting all that much force from the wheel.
I would not say there was a difference in the overall feel, but the extra 33% additional force was both noticeable and enjoyable change from the out of the box configuration.
I then proceeded the run a 1:36 at WGI in the Porsche 919, which is lackluster. I even lost the race on one setting down from unbeatable. Sigh.
What problems are you having exactly with the wheel in FM7? Can you explain in depth?
yeah this game is “convincingly enough”, but not really a sim. cars feel sleepy and you have to constantly fight the assists even when you turn them off.
I’ve done my fair share of track days, and my stock alfa gt with stock tires and no special consideration can pull turns tighter and faster than any of the c car in game with their “race” tires.
it’s not a bad game, I love you can just get in and drive at any skill level, but really little of what you practice or learn in it transfer in the real world or vice versa.
The worst thing I can do is go from Project cars 2 to Forza 7. The physics in Forza are horrible. Sure, maybe you can learn Forza physics but its not real and the skill is not transferable to other sims. I have a Fanatec wheel which is a thing of beauty in PC2. Forza is junk. Ok, its not a driving game but a car collecting game. Not for a sim racer. The original poster is totally correct in his descriptions of physics.