Struggling with a drift tune. Any advice?

I’ve been trying to make a drift tune for the E46 M3. Basically, V8, and I want it to drive like a Formula Drift car in game. I don’t want AWD/Drag tires/other tryhard stuff

The problem is, the car always spins out, even when it isnt under a lot of angle. I want this thing to hold some decent angle but it wont

I’m running the 6.2 V8 with a supercharger, 1000 HP, drift suspension, drift tires, drift transmission, drift diff, and about 3000 lbs weight. I haven’t done much in the way of actual tuning as it isnt my area of expertise

Any tuners here who know how to handle this? Thanks.

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You’ve got a couple options to persue. Not sure what’s best for you without more info. Good rule of thumb for describing issues with a car: be verbose.

Most of my advice is going to counter a drift tune. In drifting, you want an excitable difficult to control car that can push past it’s breakpoints easily. A lot of the prebuilt drift tunes like the formula drift cars try to counter that by making the rear tires soft (which actually does make some sense and is one thing you can try) but personally I don’t like the feel of that.

Before I get to the tuning though, you should first check your advanced controls settings. Simulation steering, removing steering, acceleration, and braking deadzones and making sure you have the right steering liniarity for you (it’s a personal preference thing, but no less important than the other settings) is important for ensuring maximum control over the car. FH5’s “one size fits all” standard arcade settings is a litany of compromises, especially to control.

Be sure to have all other assists off as well for drifting.

Anyways, in no particular order:

Pushing out the gears a little more might help you stabilize the car. It’s not ideal, you want tight gears in order to get maximum torque at all times, but it could help a lot with learning.

Raising the car and loosening the suspension and anti-roll might help you as well. Again, this goes against what you want in a drift build, but being able to see and feel the car reaching and going past it’s limits easier could help with the learning process.

The aforementioned soft rear tires can also help, though this will cause understeer in static friction scenarios (read: before you start sliding).

If you’re still having trouble, start smaller. You can make some good drift cars in B and even C class with cruddy enough tires. That might help you learn control and recovery techniques. Then you can work your way up to the big’uns.

I’m running sim steering and stability/traction off. Probably doesn’t help that I drive automatic but I can’t drive a manual in this game sooo…

I’ll try the softer suspension and tires. Sounds like something that might help.

As for needing more info, I tried my best to make things clear, what should I clarify?

Enh just be descriptive. You’d be surprised how much it can help.

For example, if you had said: " the car feels far too violent when I break traction" then I immediately know you need to take air out of the tires.

I’d suggest learning manual, it’s very, very helpful in all racing games, especially if you want to drift. I’d suggest learning it fresh in another game, then coming back to FH. For me that game was Art of Rally. Game is a freaking nightmare in automatic.

The learning can be frustrating (hence why I suggest using another game) but it’s so worth it.

First I think it’s great you are working on a rwd tune. For drifting, using manual shifting can be really easy. Most of the time for me at least the default gearing for 3rd and 4th is a good starting point. Adjusting the dead zones and steering linearity made a big difference for me in overall drivability.

Regardless though when the car spins out it’s from losing rear grip. Obvious I know but countering this by adding wider rear tires and/or reducing rear camber often makes the most difference. If I remember correctly the drift diff has high decel locking. Reducing this, stiffening the front bar and softening the rear bar, for me at least makes the car easier to recover from too high of an angle.

If going to manual shifting works for you I would put 3rd to be a little shorter (numerically higher) than the gear that you currently drift in. This will limit the tire speed and therefore reduce spinning out. 4th I would then put a bit taller than 3rd for drifting faster corners. There isn’t a right answer for this or anything else really because it is what feels right and works for you.

The weird thing is, it has too much grip in 1st, but as soon as I go into 2nd or 3rd, it just starts trying to spin at every turn.

You’d have to list all of your tune settings for best advice, but a good place for you to start would be to adjust your rear decel until it only lets loose when you want it to. Knowing what your diff settings are now would be helpful, as well as gearing & even arbs.

I didnt tune the diff, so install a drift diff and that should be the settings.

Drift dif is locked by default. I’d recommend a lower setting for a beginner.

A completely locked diff is good for breaking out easily, but opening it up a bit will give you much more control.

Hard to say what will work for you since there can be a lot of personal preference for dif settings (especially for drifting), but 65 acceleration 35 deceleration is my random stab at a good starting point. You can turn always turn things up if it’s not aggressive enough.

Sorry, didn’t think about dif earlier. I’m just so used to auto-locking in my dif settings based on the use case on my cars and only making small adjustments when needed I don’t really even think about it anymore.

Normally, I’d just change grip, but I’m getting this problem. This is a “darned if you do, darned if you dont” situation, because if I add more grip in the rear, I’m not gonna get any slide until 2nd gear, and if I decrease grip, I’m just gonna spin even more

Sounds like a combination of dif settings and cockpit issues.

Did you make sure to remove the acceleration and breaking deadzones? Proper throttle control will solve the issue, though I’ll admit throttle control is a lot more difficult in automatic.

I play Eliminator as well, will screwing with those deadzones mess up my experience in Eliminator and regular racing?

They’ll change things, sure, and there will be an adaptation period, but I assure you it’s worth it. Default settings limit your skill ceiling.

Edit: most people consider an improvement right away, but not everyone. I know how adverse to change people can be. Heck I can be one of those people. But I assure you, sim steering, removing deadzones, and setting proper steering liniarity will improve things for you in the long run.

Only reason you should ever have deadzones is of your controller is failing and/or starting to drift.

Can you put this in terms and old f#rt gearhead might understand please? Are you talking about higher or lower bu*t gears?

Edit: can’t believe the word nanny didn’t like f#rt.
:smile:

Regarding the rear grip, an easy change is rear camber. Start at -5 degrees and try drifting it. Then try -4 and so on until you get to 0 degrees. With drift tires you should be able to feel the changes pretty clearly. 1000hp is a lot to balance.

Edit: I’m guessing you’ve lowered the diff settings a bit which is good. Your description of the tires breaking loose easily in 2nd and 3rd makes me believe grip is the biggest issue to tackle.

Regarding the deadzones, you can make a note of where they are before changing them. Then if you don’t like it you can change it back. There’s probably also a reset to default option. For me it helped across the board.

Yeah, I might’ve bit off a bit more than I could chew with a V8 and 1000 HP. But I’m gonna stick with it and get this thing to slide like a dream.

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the word filter on these forums is just stupid.

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:+1:

I mean pushing them out further on the graph, which makes them longer. This will help stabilize cars, but at the cost of torque.

When making a race build, I usually go for long gears early and short gears late. This is especially helpful in 2WD cars as it makes it easier to manage throttle and not overload the tires at low speeds, while also making it easier to stay in peak torque or horsepower at higher speeds where 2WD has the advantage.

In a drift build you want all short gears, since you don’t care about overloading the tires and you want to stay in peak torque at all times if possible. However, “pushing them out” or making the gears longer, can help people new to drifting, especially if they struggle with throttle control.

Moving the final drive slider to the left will push out all gears. You can also push an individual gear out by using it’s respective slider.

The basics of gear tuning are pretty easy if you want to learn more. Stuff can get complicated with specific builds though, especially if you’re trying to build a racer with a massive torque spike (like the Jesko) or an offroad build where you need to sacrifice a gear or two to the downhill gods.

Tune your first gear so the car goes around 180kmh with 1000hp it ahould be able to drift at that gear ration. Then put trans to manual and only use first gear.

https://www.xbox.com/play/media/MV975G32