(Apologizing for the recent threads I’ve been making recently, just very curious :D) So for adjusting the springs and dampers, do you want to keep the front stiffer then the back, or vice versa? Mostly targeting RWD and AWD. Also on all 3 of these settings, would it be alright to set them all between stiff and soft and just tune from there?
Try different settings and see how you like them. In the end, the only person you need to like your tunes is you. Thats the way i see it anyway. I share some tunes, and i hope the people who d/l them like them, but if they dont…i’m not too tore up over it. it didnt cost them anything to get my tune.
and the answer to your question is…it depends. the best way to get answers to your questions is to experiment
2 Likes
Hard to answer. It depends on what the car is doing after you drive it for 3 or 4 laps. Some cars require drastic changes to make them good drivers and others may only need a few tweaks to camber/roll bars.
The build of the car can also fix issues you may have. For instance if the car is skittish mid corner, try adding different levels of roll cage and/or add rear tire width. Both upgrades usually take up little PI when compared to tire upgrades.
That’s how I’ve been getting started as of late. I first add race springs and see where they are at at the cars default weight. I usually tune for A class so I’m able to drop substantial weight. I try to start with street tires at most or increasing the width of he. As much as I can then adding power. I usually try to add the roll cage to help with handling esp without better tires to even out the handling. I always try to add race weight reduction as well.
I take note of how much weight has. Been removed and go to tune. I take a lap or two, note how the car feels then the first thing I usually do is slam the ride height all the way down and add full aero. Then I go to work on the rear. Starting with softening the springs by -100 initially then going to 50 at a time then fine tuning as best I can before moving on. I usually start with the rear bump and move it -0.5 at a time then fine tune it. Then the rebound in the same manner. Sometimes at this point the springs or bump may have to be adjusted again. Keep a note book of your changes.
I like the springs stiffer in e front but I rarely find myself softening them. On mid-engine cars I find myself stiffening them. But acts fine tuning for me and usually dealin with cornering. At least for me.
ARBs I don’t touch much, but once the springs are settled, I start paying attention to mid corner steering. Most of the time I restore to defaults, but usually I move -1.0 at a time if there is under steer.
I usually start tuning on the ring if it’s a brand new car I haven’t driven before. I know about what my time should be and go for hat. If the car feels solid, I’ll go to COTA to work on the details esp if I think I have to work on the ARB but it’s more because I know what my times should be, if I’m within 0.5 seconds and the car feels good, then it’s time to test it in some races. (I’ll work on caster and camber at Catalunya and the Alps and do some time trials at Sonoma full if I need another baseline)
1 Like
I normally set my Springs and ARB based on the weight distribution of the car.
A car with 50/50 distribution would have 20.0/20.0 for ARB and equal springs.
A car with more weight on the front would have higher front values, and vice versa for rear.
Dampers I always set at 10.0/10.0 and 2.0/2.0 to begin with, and then adjust afterwards based on how the car handles. I usually do this last as a final tweak and tend to use the ARBs as my main “handling changer”.
I rarely tune AWD but when I do I tend to set the car up for oversteer initially and dial it back until I’ve neutralised the way it handles.
1 Like