Using Moneyman300’s method for creating a base tune on springs before changing anything and he uses a calculation of
(Weight/2)*WeightDistrib
So takes the total weight, divides by 2, then multiplies it by the weight distribution as a decimal. This gives him a total spring value equal to the total weight of the car.
Eg: 3000Lbs with 48% distribution to the front becomes
Does anyone else use this formula as a base?
Also, in some cases (like the above) that leaves you with a stiffer rear spring, which is generally not favoured in RWD cars correct?
Obviously these figures will change sometimes drastically when beginning tuning, but is it advised or even necessary to keep that total car weight equal to your total spring lb/in? So if I soften the rear springs should I then be raising the front proprtionately? I realise that a lot of it depends on the driving style and the car and the track etc etc, but is there any merit to keeping that total weight equal? Can you achieve more optimal results etc?
On some cars I have used this method but I’m softening the spring rates before I factor in the balance of the car. For most mid engine cars the rear spring rate will be higher than the front and that is fine as long as the car is balanced. If you find the rear of the car sliding or loose then just begin adjusting the rear springs only. If the front is working don’t touch it. On some cars like the Indy lights car where the rear of the car is very loose I shifted the weight bias to 50% as a baseline and then started adjusting. Each car can vary and I find it helpful to test drive the car for a lap or two before I really start playing around with it just so I have a feel for what might be needed.
I personally use this method on all my cars, don’t even mess with the springs really other then this method then I’ll mess with the tires, alignment, Diff, Aero, ride height, then brake balance. Generally least in my experiences you want stiffer springs where most of the weight is regardless of what drive the car is.
I used to use this method a lot for my base tunes. I wouldn’t necessarily keep the total spring weight equal to the car weight but half is a good starting point. Some cars start fairly close to this formula and some start under. For those types of cars I wouldn’t raise the springs but I would distribute that weight to correspond to the cars weight distribution. Most cars will start with springs that are pretty stiff and will be lowered. When using this formula, you have to keep in mind where the engine is.
You can have a front engine car that is 49% front weight or a mid engine car that is 49% front weight but you might consider a different set up for both.
Most of the tunes I have made now have not used this as a base formula for the springs and they are achieving much faster times. That said, I am also tuning the entire car instead of mainly the Springs and Roll Bars. MoneyMan3000 doesn’t go in-depth into tuning as the video says but it is a GREAT place to take a car and make it driveable for everyone. From there it’s up to you to tweak and dial in.
I struggle with alignment and damping. We should get into a chat or PM about this. We could help each other out even more and I’m willing to learn, I’d love to learn as much as I can. Springs and ARB’s are what I find the easiest.
I struggle with alignment and damping. We should get into a chat or PM about this. We could help each other out even more and I’m willing to learn, I’d love to learn as much as I can. Springs and ARB’s are what I find the easiest.
Forgive me for jumping in but I thought I might share how I work my dampers. On my rebound I always start with a 7.5 front/rear and on my bump I start with 2.5 front/rear. I tweak the shocks AFTER I have my springs and ARB’s set. If I feel the car needs more stability when taking a set in corners I increase the front Bump 2-3 clicks while decreasing the rear Bump the same 2-3 clicks. Vice versa if I want more response when coming OUT of a corner I will increase rear Bump 2-3 clicks and decrease front Bump 2-3 clicks. On the Rebound side, if I feel a hint of oversteer midway thru a sweeping corner and my ARB’s are comfortable enough, I decrease rear Rebound 2-3 clicks and increase front rebound 1-2 clicks and go from there (I will also play with camber too if I feel it needs it). If she feels ‘sloppy’ (or mushy) when coming out of a corner, I increase front Rebound 2-3 clicks and drop the rear the same 2-3 clicks.
When doing the dampeners, I have realized every car seems to respond different to shocks settings. Some of my lower class cars, I can keep both Rebound and Bump at my general setting 7.5/2.5 setting and I’ve gone as high of 9.5-10.0 rebound/3.5-4.0 bump in higher class cars. I’ve seen some tuners use very low Bump setting of around 1.5 to 2.0 and for some I understand it works but for the feel that I prefer, I seem to get away with a 2.5 - 3.5 setting. Good luck!
Thank you. Even if I don’t go with those numbers, it’s incredibly helpful to see what they do and in what situation you would make changes to the parts.
I use something vaguely similar but I soften the front by about 5% and the rear by about 10-15%. This is for my first tune that gets tested. From there science is out the window and feel or laptimes become the keys to tweaking the tune.
i used a maths formula early on in this game but i was led to believe that its for static weights and doesnt help when inertia is in motion i trim prob 100lb from springs from base tune then go from there arbs are a user preference to suit the driving style some like neutral some like oversteer…fwd cars i put lots more spring in the rear to keep tires planted and generate more heat, so maths doesnt work with fwd cars its about fooling the physics of the game
