Let me know something please. Is good approach when setting springs , set arbs at minimum , play with springs for desired oversteer-understeer , when happy go for arbs settings? Is this a good approach for tuning springs , or maybe is better use a formula? Is there any formula that you trust for springs?
thanx a lot.
There are no set “formulas” that will help you, sure there are planty out there that will give you a base tune to start with but you have to let the car speak to you. Set your spring to desired setting (check telemetry) with your arb at middle then work them up or down…test, test and more test, let the car tell you what it wants with your driving skills. Good luck!
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Thanx for your response. I know that is no magic number that will work out of the box, and what i am doing for 2 weeks now is drive-tune , drive-tune , a specific car. I want to take the maximum from my suspension , and as i am new in tuning looking for a base that is in right direction.
Read THIS THREAD, it’ll be very helpful if you want quick and easy tunes.
Yes i saw this thread before some days and today i read it. Load of informations in there
Thanx.
The way ive always done my springs is like this:
Car has 43% front and weighs 2000lbs
2000 x .43 Ă· 2 = 430 (front spring rate)
100-43=57
2000 x .57 Ă· 2 = 570 (rear spring rate)
I use this as a baseline for all of my tunes and 99% of the time it works great.
Hey mate. I use the same formula for my base settings of springs but i i think the results is on stiffer side of things. That i wanna ask , is orthodox way to keep soft springs as possible , and use hard dumb for not bottom out? or this maybe make bad ballance of the car? I know that every tuner have his way, and tune for different style of driving, but i think that there is dos , and don ts.
The first step in choosing spring stiffness is to choose your desired ride frequencies, front and rear. A ride frequency is the undamped natural frequency of the body in ride. The higher the frequency, the stiffer the ride. So, this parameter can be viewed as normalized ride stiffness. Based on the application, there are ballpark numbers to consider.
ď‚· 0.5 - 1.5 Hz for passenger cars
ď‚· 1.5 - 2.0 Hz for sedan racecars and moderate downforce formula cars
ď‚· 3.0 - 5.0+ Hz for high downforce racecars
Hi friend. thanx you stopped by , and give some help. I get the Hz idea about choosing frequency for the all suspension system , but how is this translates on springs - shocks ,car weight ?
Lol it’s nice to have parts of my work quoted to another thread.
Read through http://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst46300_Optimum-suspension-settings.aspx This thread if your brain doesn’t hurt after his post will make more sense.
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I would avoid using telemetry to tune because you don’t race looking at telemetry, you race by feeling the car and the road. Drive your car and tune it how you want it to feel. If you tune according to telemetry, you’ll never actually get your car to feel how you want it to because you’re tuning to the computer’s delight, and Forza 6’s engine tends to be a little inaccurate at times.
Here are some general tips of my own:
For racing, springs should be on the stiffer side because you want to avoid body roll, but, rather, have the momentum from the rear of the car transfer to the front of the car to push you through the turn.
For drifting, springs should be on the softer side because in drifting you want that body roll in turns to throw the weight of the car into the drift turn-in at the tail end of the car.
Sway bars influence under/oversteer greatly, so work on these to correct for that. You want to avoid extremes in your springs…too stiff and you will bottom out…too soft and you will flip or lose momentum to body roll. For transitional under/oversteer, play with your rebound & bump stiffness; remember, transitional refers to exiting and entering turns back to back.
Hope this helps!
There are different suspension “Archetypes”
There is the soft springs, high dampening type. I made my own calculator based on the Donkervoorts initial settings. This type of suspension is good when you have excessive suspension travel like when a car rides below 4 inches and needs to be raised for kurb reasons, or when tuning a muscle car that can’t be slammed down enough.
There is the stiff spring, restricting weight transfer archetype. I used this in the Renault Alpine, Nissan Fairlady Z FF, etc. This is for cars with either short and low suspension travel for which bottoming out is a major issue (HELLO FAIRLADY FF) or for cars with weight transfer issues (The Alpine practically pulls a wheelie on corner exit). None of these cars will be leaderboard cars because soft gives better grip, but they can be quite pleasantly driveable. You typically want lower bump ratios.
Then there is the soft springs, soft dampening type. Gives the most grip. Will be bouncy on certain tracks so you have to stiffen up the dampening.
Some cars I actually raise a bit and soften up the suspension because they don’t transfer enough weight. The S2K 09 comes to mind.
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laughed so hard at your fairlady comment, lol…so true. I remember the first time I tried that car in a drift lobby. WOWWWW that thing did like a 1080 by itself, lol.
I was searching around for some different types of methods for base tunes to compare with my own originals and I came across this video. To get the best out of it I recommend you do his methods for arbs, and dampers also. This helped me tune the Lotus Exige S when I was about to completely give up. You will have to do your own tuning afterwards though because it’s only a base tune, but it does feel satisfying with the cars that I did use the method on.
Give him a subscribe if it works for you too!!