Hello Guys, my steering wheel ( Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider) after today Forza 6 update doesn’t work, it doesn’t match with a driver’s wheel in Forza, only it moves on the last ~ 50 degrees. How Can I fix it ?
I have the TX, and do not have any problems. But I believe the wheel rotation of the 458 Spider is fixed at 270. Does it help to set the rotation at 270 in Forza as well? (if that option is available in the advanced settings)
As G factory has said, see if you can match the Degree of Rotation of your wheel in-game to match the wheel itself.
I’ve set mine to 540 on the wheel and 540 in game and it’s a pretty good match.
Not necessary. I spoke with TM support about this very concern…setting both the wheel manually and the in-game DOR to ‘equal’ one another has no impact. You can leave the wheel at default (900), and then just pick your DOR in-game. Think about it…what if you set a DOR in-game other than 900, 720, 540 or 360? If you set in-game to 400 lets say, then there is no way to manually define 400 DOR on the wheel. The wheels FFB and overall steering traits are determined by the game settings…unless you set in game, and then manually override by adjusting on the wheel.
The spider is not like the other wheels. It is a 240 degree rotation but can fake high rotation settings at a cost. No matter what it only has 240 degrees that it will turn but you can set it to be less sensitive during the first part of the rotation at the cost of it becoming more sensitive at higher rotation angles.
For example by default it is full on 240 as is much to sensitive to easily drive. At min sensitivity the first few degrees feel like it is at 900 so it is very good for long sweeping corners and ovals. Once you turn past a point though it has to start catching up so the sensitivity increases greatly and the result is that you will generally oversteer and spin out when you try to take a tight corner. I find that setting 3 works pretty well on most tracks. It is more sensitive than setting 4 but you can turn it more before it bites you with the sudden sensitivity. You still have to be careful in hairpins but that seems to be the best setting.
To change the setting you will need to pay attention to the light on the lower right of the base. It will flash once for each mode setting so you get one flash for mode 1, 2 flashes for mode two and so on up to mode 4 then it will go back to mode one.
To cycle through the modes you use the shifters and the B+Y buttons. Pull back on both shifters at the same time then press both the Y and the B button with your thumbs and release. The light should flash 1 or more times. You want to get 3 flashes for mode 3. If you unplug the wheel from the xbox you will have to set the mode again, maybe if the xbox is unplugged or you loose power also but can’t say for sure.
Also you should be aware that the brake pedal and throttle pedal both calibrate automaticaly the first time you press them after connecting to the Xbox so if the first time you press the brake pedal you only go half way down you may find your brakes seem much more sensitive than the did the last time you used it, same with the throttle. As far as I can tell it only does this when either you unplug the pedals and reconnect them, you unplug the wheel from the xbox and possibly when the xbox is unplgged from the wall or you have a power outage.
Is your inside steering deadzone 0?
Another thought on that is you may need to unplug your wheel from the xbox and then reconnect it to let it recalibrate.
Sorry guys a little off-topic here - but seeing as we are talking about un-plugging/recalibrating etc…do you guys unplug your wheel after each use, or just leave the wheel in ‘standby’ mode? I notice there is a faint hum from the TX base after you power ‘off’ your Xbox if you leave the wheel plugged in. I thought this was o.k…but I called TM and they said I should un-plug the wheel (either from the wall socket, or the USB plug), after each use.
What do you guys do?