I see there is a new driver out today, for Nvidia cards, did you guys note improvements on how the game is working for PC. I will test it out later tonight.
I’ll grab the new driver, and report back. I will be surprised if there’s any change in performance however. This game is entirely CPU bound. I have an i7 running at 4.5 gigahertz and a 1080ti. While playing the game my CPU commonly hits a hundred percent load on at least two of the cores where my 1080ti has never been above 67% load. This is while playing in 4k on HDR. I have changed settings and fiddled around with things and it doesn’t seem to have much of an effect. The load seems to be most noticeable on wet tracks especially on sharp turns where there’s a lot of graphics updating. This causes a significant frame drop, well below 30.
What’s interesting is that when I run the Benchmark it never shows my frame rate below 60. But I can definitely see it happening on wet tracks. It’s more of a stuttering than a frame drop. I would guess this is the system bogging down as the CPU hits a hundred percent load. They need to look at the coding to fix this. As I have basically a top-of-the-line PC in the should not be happening. Others have experienced this even at 1080 resolution with similar hardware so obviously there’s a problem with the Forza 7, but not the graphic rendering at this point.
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I downloaded and installed it as I have all the other updates. NO CHANGE! Game still crashes just after the Turn 10 Logo appears. I have yet to be able to play this game on my pc. I chatted with Forza Techs, they had me video my screen of what I was seeing when it occurred as well as send them a specific group of files for their analysis. They said thanks and I never heard from them again. This was a week ago. I’ve given up and will just play on the Xbox.
8GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 Graphics
Intel® Core i7-7700 Processor 3.6GHz
32GB DDR4 (4-DIMM) 2400MHz RAM
tested very shortly and i still get textures flickering on bathurst, but i manage to get around 7 laps before it starts occurring. Previously after 2 laps I already had invisible track. So I`m not sure anything changed.
Might be worth a try:
Use DDU to COMPLETELY uninstall GFX driver
Install the new one.
Link to DDU entry in nVidia Forums: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/550192/geforce-drivers/wagnard-tools-ddu-gmp-tdr-manipulator-new-cpu-core-analyzer-updated-09-21-2017-/
Updating the driver right now. I will report back. One thing that is interesting on the Nvidia website when the driver pulls up, it lists Forza Motorsport 7 under the list of notes. So I wonder if they did make changes.
For those of you that can’t play or are crashing I just want to let you know I’ve been playing it everyday, sometimes 10 plus hours, with basically no issues. I did report that I had a few crashes early on but I realized I had my swap file turned off in Windows 10. I have a very recent, clean install of Windows 10: no antivirus, turned off all background Windows tasks I have a 1080ti on a 4.5 gigahertz i7 overclocked last-gen. 16 gigs of RAM and striped solid state drives. It plays ultra-stable without crashing, although I do get the textures disappearing on track occasionally. I found that a complete system reboot fixes that and then it goes away for hours.
So they do have some things to fix but those of you that can’t play or have stability issues with crashing, it is more likely your operating system or other things and not the Forza game itself as mine is playing mostly very well.
Thank you for the info. I’ll look into this on my rig.
I’m also crashing 9 out of 10 times on my high end PC.
It happens everywhere in menus while driving etc. It’s really annoying I’ll not play the game until it’s fixed as it’s really game breaking
IMPORTANT
Updating my video driver reset all of my video settings. If you update yours go to your video settings and check. I had previously turned off lens flare and motion blur, everything else was set to Dynamic and my render quality was set to Ultra. So it must detect a new driver and reset.
Edit: just noticed it also reset my audio quality to Dynamic. I had previously had it set on high. Since I’m using the audio from the 1080ti through the HDMI it must have detected the update to that driver as well. So for PC users make sure you’re very careful to check your settings after any kind of driver update.
For comparison purposes here my Benchmark stats. I’m using Render quality set to ultra and frame-rate is unlocked, everything is on Dynamic except lens flare and motion blur are turned off, rendering at 4K with HDR on, audio on high. 4.4GHz i7-4770K, 1080ti EVGA SC Black, 16GB DDR3, striped SSD
Min: 94
Max: 144
Avg: 121
Not sure why this would be. But I get slightly higher Benchmark numbers with HDR On than when it Off
Okay so maybe some good news. My first laps in the rain with the Open Wheel car at Spa… I did not notice any stuttering or frame drop for the entire two lap race. Previously I would definitely have visual stuttering and frame drop in nearly every single corner This looks great!!!
Edit: I just noticed after the driver update, Nvidia turned off HDR. Because I did a clean install which I always do for the video driver and highly recommend. I wonder if this is having some effect on the better frame rate. No wonder why the track looked so drab. Let me turn that back on and report back in a bit when I get to another wet track.
The big stuttering problem has nothing to do with GPU, it’s a CPU issue with 2 cores maxed out, meaning gpu driver won’t resolve it.
So people saying “GPU driver fixed my stuttering issue” are wrong, only a game update will resolve this one.
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Yep I am quite aware of this. And have mentioned it in many other posts as well. However I am just reporting what I’m seeing on screen. And there is oddly some strange Improvement to the visual quality. I’ve only raced one rain race, which is the only time I ever had stuttering. So I will do a few more and report back again.
On a side note for griping purposes. These software companies really Need to get off their butts and learn how to use multiple CPU cores better. Adobe has the same issue, when I’m doing my photo editing on my other computer, which is even faster than my gaming machine. 4.8GHz 7700k. I have all kinds of slow down issues because Lightroom only uses basically two cores even though I have much more horsepower available. Since we’ve hit a wall on clock speed you’ll notice Intel is releasing these crazy multi-core CPUs. The bad thing is they actually run at slightly slower clock speeds. So we’re not really going to gain anything in any of our games unless you’re also multitasking a bunch of garbage in the background. But who really does that when they’re gaming.
I apologize this isn’t a very scientific test/comparison, but I ran a quick benchmark prior to updating the driver and saved the results before and after. Note that I had to reconfigure my graphic setting after doing the driver update, and while I’m pretty sure I have them configured exactly as before the results have me wondering if I missed something. If I find some time maybe I’ll go back to the prior version to double-check but here’s what I recorded in my benchmark on the last 2 driver versions:
385.69
Min FPS: 69.2
Max FPS: 91.1
Average FPS: 81.5
387.92
Min FPS: 46.6
Max FPS: 69.0
Average FPS: 63.7
GTX1070, i5 7600@4.7ghz, 5760x1080 4x AA with 2x supersample
Kind of strange as my numbers went up a few FPS with the new driver. That being said, I have to keep the game set to Dynamic frame rate. If I leave it on unlocked, even though I have huge FPS numbers in The Benchmark, I get some screen tearing, probably because the frames per second being rendered and my 60 hertz monitor refresh are not in sync. If you set the frame rate to Dynamic it will always keep it at 60 and just not use all the power of your GPU.
Thank you! No longer crashing and running excellently! Here’s all I did:
I went into Advanced System Settings - Performance - Custom Virtual Memory and changed the settings/values of the total page file size for all drivers. It was factory set at having the system manage it and it was set at a maximum of only 2GB. I changed the value to 8GB and Voila! Works like a champ… no flicker, no reduced frame rate and no crashing! I hope this can help others that were in my predicament.
I still have Windows Defender, Firewall and anti-virus running at full tilt in the background… didn’t have to turn them off.
Yes. It is a known thing in the IT world that you never let Windows manage your swap file. Always set your minimum and maximum swap file size to the same number and typically want that to be equal to the amount of ram you have or one-and-a-half to two times the amount of ram you have. By setting it to a designated size it allocates a specific space on your hard drive that it always goes to, this increases performance and stability in your system. Source: my ownership of an IT consulting company for 22 years!
I would like to try this but am a little confused here on how to go about it with my configuration? Is it just the Main C drive I change the virtual memory size of or ALL my installed drives? I have 16gb ram and my boot (C) drive is a Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD 250gb. However Forza 7 is running off of my Samsung 850 Evo SSD 500gb and i have a 1tb mechanical HDD for my other games including Forza horizon 3 and Forza Apex. The current settings is system management on just the C drive at 2gb and NO PAGEFILE set for the 1tb drive or the 850 Evo drive with Forza 7 on it. For the record all my games work fine Except for Forza 7. Would i be alright in just adjusting the virtual memory size for the SSD that has forza 7 on it or do they all need to be adjusted?
Okay so here’s what you want to do. You only need virtual memory set up on one drive. Pick your fastest drive, so one of your ssds that has space. Preferrably the one that does not have the game installed for even better performance.You have 16 gigs of RAM, so a good idea to set the starting number and ending number at 16000. That will lock in an exact 16 gig swap file. Then reboot your machine. Good luck!
Additionally, I highly recommend moving any games that you play regularly to a solid state drive. You should only use a mechanical drive for archive storage and small files like photos and things that you don’t care too much about performance.
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Thanks again KKDURAZZ! I had just assumed since I had 32GB of RAM onboard that it would be used… So should I go ahead and set the values to 32GB? (I changed it to 8GB).
You probably don’t need it that high with that much RAM. I would set it to 8 or 16 gig depending on how much free space you have on your hard drive. Also if you’re using a standard hard drive the thing you want to do first is run CCleaner to clean all your junk off and then defrag your hard drive 3 or 4 times. then go in and set your swap file to the size you want. This way the swap file will be one nice continuous piece on your hard drive . if you don’t do that it may break your swap file up into multiple pieces which will not gain you any performance or stability.
For note, I typically run with no swap file, on my photo editing machine which has 32 gig and also had it set off on this gaming PC which has 16-gig. However I had a couple crashes when I was in the menu and I assumed maybe it was a memory problem, in fact one of the times that crashed I think I got a Windows message about memory. So I went ahead and turn the swap file back on. Luckily for me I’m using striped SSD drives that give me a throughput over 1 GB/s, so having a swap file doesn’t really bring me down that much in performance. Obviously this game uses a lot more memory than they say and really likes a swap file.
Hope that helps