I thought I’d make this post to try to help anyone who may be learning to drift and needed some help. To me, this setup is a pretty easy to use drift tuning, especially compared to my normally more high powered drift cars. Hopefully this guide will either give you a car you can drift or help you make your own.
Feel free to add anything you think I missed or something that may be helpful and I will edit it in.
The reason for using Race Camshafts is pretty simple and it helps quite a bit while drifting. It increases your RPM range so you can hold power while drifting.
To show you what I mean, here is a quick comparison with this BMW Drift Tune.
It’s great that you posted that. Hopefully this helps someone like your advice helped me.
I don’t know how you tune your roll bars and springs, but if you’re using the old FM4 formula, it may be beneficial to add that in there - even if you don’t, gives people a starting point.
Thanks man for this post. I appreciate it very much. I will definitely try your setup for M3. I like to drift from time to time but I am not good at tuning. I would appreciate the tuning setup of SL 65 AMG Black Series if possible. It’s not urgent so whenever you can do it would be great.
I’ve had tremendous success using the FM5 tuning calc, which should now be free for iPhone and such. I’ll start with the car I want, build it up to the HP I’m looking for (typically 600-1000hp). I’ll build around that HP with a full race chassis and tires initially. This gives a better series of times when calculating top speed, 0-100mph times and the like. The FM5 tuning app allows for a calculated BASE RACING tune generally optimized for grip. ( I tune for 4 gears on both race and drift builds, the race will reach the theoretical top speed, but the drift will range from 160mph to 175mph depending on HP) I’ll save this tune. Then with my own process and “style” of drifting I make changes. From this grip race base I’ll remove my race tires for sport, knock the camber out of alignment (starting with -3.0 or lower on the front and -.5 on rear). With the toe I will typically leave it grip optimized for the particular car which typically is 0 on the front and -.1 or -.2 on rear. Roll bars stay the same as the race tune, as does damping for the springs. Springs will be softened by roughly 200lbs on both front and rear relative to their race tune. Ride height will start at 4 clicks above min. I’ll take the rear to the nearest whole number always rounding up, then take the front 3-5 clicks higher than rear. I’ll typically run 47% F/R split and 95% pressure for brakes. All 700 and under HP cars get a grip optimized diff ( 60/10) 800-1000 hp get 100/100.
TL||DR
Everyone has their own style it’s all about finding it.
