When building a car with no aero upgrades is the % 0 or is it the default setting of say 75fr, 137r? If u look at the sliders in the tuning the blue line is in the default (middle).
Usually its ZERO (0) downforce front and rear, there’s no devices on the car to produce the downforce. The cars feel distinctively different w/ and w/o aero added + you can really tell at long straights; the cars with forza-aero clearly suffer at high speeds.
On supercars such as McLaren P1 that has active aero must have car speed dependent variable downforce but not sure exactly how it is CODED into the physics.
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Could that explain why the Syclone i have been trying to play with get really unstable when i get above 160, 170? I saw you can put the nascar engine in it, make it rear wheel and still get most suspension, trans and driveline along with aero. Just couldn’t stay in A and put race tires on. It gets about 200 on the back stretch at Daytona but its really scary and pretty much circle tracks around the corners at 180. It doesnt feel like the aero is helping at all because it kind of floats and bounces really bad. I’m sure suspension set up has alot to do with it, but could the aero be playing a part? In my head it seems like it could be a good car, but maybe my haed ain’t right, lol!
It gets unstable because of high speed lift. There is nothing you can do to prevent a pickup truck from getting light at 160-170 mph and floating.
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That’s what I was afraid of. Seemed like it would be a fun truck to drive if I could find the handle. I even tried s class with race tires. It helped but still really unstable. My other A tune with just the 350 is better, that’s tops around 165. Haven’t given up on that one yet, lol. Thanks for the input!
Have you tried raising the front so it’s slightly higher than the rear and softening the front springs??? Might be worth a shot if you’ve not tried it yet… Other than that as stated above there’s not really anything you can do about it.
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Wouldnt you want to do the opposite?
Jack up the rear and lower the front to add rake as this would act a little as aero. Also, soften the rear springs so the rear to add mechanical grip to the rear?
Not always, for some reason some cars are more stable at speed with a raised and softened front… Seems to suck the front down, but yes it SHOULD have some rake and stiffer rear suspension, you’ll be able to manage weight transfer better.
Rake (mechanical + aero) would only work if it is coded into the physics. I think the mechanical rake is factored in but not aerodynamic rake (under body/tray acting as a long diffuser). Aero rake would not work well on a truck with high ride height anyways; it needs very low side skirts + flat undertray. Aside, supercars such as McLaren P1, Pagani Zonda, LaFerrari, etc. would have flat undertrays but I have no idea how their rake downforce is incorporated.
My approach would be:
Minimal ride height front & rear (obvious)
Soft front & rear springs for compliance, use ARB for cornering support
Stiff ARB for stable cornering, make sure rear is lower
High rebound to bump ratio (1.6~2.0x) for ride compliance
High tire pressure for stability (34~35psi warm)
Max rear aero, minimal front aero (for max weight on rear)
That’s just a bunch of wild guesses . . .
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Don’t do the ride height slammed any more. Not as good as far as I can tell.
Also, lifting the front end = higher speed in Forza on straights like Le Mans but more lift on the vehicle. Will slam down when you brake and seemingly brake faster. In FM2/3/4 this equaled a good bit of top speed but I don’t know about this game. It’s an oval and Le Mans trick.
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How can one tell the difference between aero rake and ride height?
I havent messed with either of them much. Kinda got discouraged with them. I may try both, messing with the front and then the back suspension next time i get on. I imagine nothing will make the A class with the 5.9 work all that well. If you drive super carefully with throttle input and dont drive too hard, it is really fun. Im still trying to get alot of this “tuning” figured out. Alot of you guys have been really helpful and i appreciate that.
Thamks, man! And heck, most of my tuning is based on wild guessing, lol
Aero rake is very real in this game
In 4 i had a pretty good and, at least for me, a solid tuning for most cars. I used very similar tunes in FH2 and they still felt really good (if you have the means and are curious, i have an S Class IROC Z thats a really nice balanced tune and then the 70 cuda FF is my favorite “drag” car but i found myself just cruising around the map instead of racing, over 1000hp RWD, geared for crossing the runway finish line at redline in 3rd at about 220 or so, just a crazy fun car!!) And then came my fascination with trying to build drag cars, man i wish there was proper drag racing in these games, but anyway, it screwed me up from that point on. I got sick of alot of the horizon races. I love the game, just not the races where you jump 1000 ft through the air and just the arcadee-ness of it. The races that stayed on the street are great! But i spent about a month or more doing nothing but building drag cars for the runway. Raising the height of the cars made a big difference in acceleration and top speed. Which never made alot of sense to me, but cars were alot faster. My friend would drop the rear and raise the front where i would do front and rear. So maybe for me the biggest problem is knowing what is ACTUALLY going to change what “in the game” as apposed to what does what in the real world. I know there is alot that just doesn’t seem to mesh with the real world. But again, as i have said before, I’m not good at math and tune cars to how I like 'em. …And I’m not very fast, lol.
I dont know about just the front in worms theory as i havent tested it, but raising ride height increases top speed at the expense of mechanical grip due to a higher center of gravity.
Mmmm not always, it depends largely on your springs (grip part anyway) it does make you more likely to roll over though.
As to worm, he is right about the boost in top end and aceleration and it’s fairly easy to explain. If you raise the front you’re transferring weight slightly rearward, meaning more weight is over the rear wheels. It also changes the top aero properties in that it makes any wings less effective so to a degree reduces drag slightly. He’s also right about generating lift hence I said about stiffening the rear springs and softening the front. The pressure will look for an escape route out of the rear so at higher speeds should theoretically suck/push the front end down as the rear rises and the front starts getting pressed down.
It probably a completely wrong train of thought but if you’ve tried everything else you can give it a go… Worst case scenario is it doesn’t work either and you’re no further than you were before.
Doing that isnt going to help with the grip at all, you are going to need to basically soften everything as these aerodynamic effects (no aero) are only effective at higher speeds. As the car slows you are going to need it to be softer. Softening the front and stiffening the rear is going to accentuate the lack of grip by creating a balance more biased towards oversteer. Basically when you jack the ride height up you are going to want to make the car basically about as soft as possible without botteming out to get some of the mechanical grip back that you lose from raising your COG and roll center. We cant change the geometry of the suspension, so softening it gets some of this back.