I want to use this thread to ask for help, because i’m completely new in driving with a race wheel. I bought the TX racing wheel and a gameseat. With the controller i have a lot of very nice times. I would say it’s possible for me to reach the top500 on every track and class with some practice. I am driving manual with clutch, no ABS, still using tcs. Now, with the new wheel i am really struggling to control RWD cars and i cannot figure out what my problem is. All the deadzones are set to 0-100, vibration and force feedback at 50; 270-360 DOR and sensitivity at 2!
But after nearly every corner my cars start to oversteer and it seems to be impossible to counter-steer and correct it. I lose control and hit the walls. I am spinning. I have to stand still and start new. Wow, thats not the driving experience i expected. And i am now really asking myself if i am too stupid and too bad to drive without my controller. What am i doing wrong? Most of these cars are very easy to drive with a controller and it seems like you have to be an experianced expert to get the same feeling on the wheel.
What exactly is the difference between vibration and force feedback settings? How do they effect my driving experience?
Do you need other tunings than driving with the controller?
Can you give me some tips to counter-steer? Carefully throttle and steering in the opposite direction seem to have no effect when you lost control one time (contrary to controller, where u easily can correct driving mistakes). Is the difference really that kind of big or do i miss something? Jerking the wheel violently sometimes help to give me some grip back but its not the solution i guess.
…i really hope somebody can help me out. And sorry for my substandard english, i’m from Germany.
EDIT: Does STM could maybe help me out?
If you have simulation steering on, turn it off
I forgot to mention that i’m not driving with simulation steering. Thx for your advice.
Any other tips?
A tip that was given to me was to use sensitivity at 1 and raise the DOR. That’s supposed to reduce the slack in the middle of the wheel. But I have the opposite problem as you do in that I have way too much understeer and I mean WAY TOO MUCH. I don’t know if that’s the way the game is set up or if it’s in this wheel. Nothing get me more angry than when I turn that wheel and the car just continues going in a straight line with the tires squealing.
Jezza to me it almost sounds like overdriving. Like you are diving into corners too hot, or trying to steer further than the car will steer at a certain speed.
Try 330 DOR,helps me. I also use 65% FFB and 90% vib.
Thx for your tips! Yesterday i tested a Dodge Viper and felt very comfortable with TCS+STM, 360 DOR and senisitivity 2. No uncontrollabe oversteer and i guess thats good when driving a Viper. I downgraded the FFB to 25 or something like that.
@Jezza819: I dont understand how people can drive a class A+ with DOR higher than 360? It feels like driving a bus for me!? You cant react quick enough, cant you?
@T REX 5753: I ll check this out. But i dont really understand how FFB and vibration effect my driving. What exactly happens when i lower or max out these options?
And where’s the difference between changing DOR and changing sensitivity?
With the sensitivity set at 1 I can. Before I had sensitivity set at 3 and drove A+ at either 540, 360, or 330 but still had that problem of that big huge blank spot in the middle of the wheel. All of the turning ability felt like it was on the outer edges.
if you are oversteering in the curves exits, try to control the aceleration before point the car straight ahead. if you put 100% gas before this the result is diferent from the controller. It looks like the controller has a better “TCS” in RWD cars. Enjoy your wheel, feel the vibration and feedback to control the oversteering and good look!
If nothing works you can set up you car to reduce this exist overteering when you are using the steering wheel.
I too have had similar experience… As a matter of fact, I had to start driving D class cars to get back into competitive levels… My setups now must always sacrifice acceleration and launch for handling (usually wide rear tire or grip when not too much PI). Also, almost all my favorite cars are AWD.
I am back up to A class cars now, but still have have issues with oversteer with S class and above, or with RWD with anything that has decent HP to weight ratio.
Don’t get me wrong, I love driving with the wheel (when controllable)… With lower HorsePower cars, it is Sooooo realistic… I think maybe it is still pretty realistic with the High Horsepower cars too. What isn’t realistic is how we can all steer lock to lock to loc to lock… In mili-seconds when driving with a thumb stick… That just can’t be done in real life, or with a wheel setup… Also, just as a general reality check, none of us would ever be able to drive a real Hyper-car, like we do in game (especially when using controller)
The things I have done to improve things are…Turn down force feedback by connecting to PC and making adjustment. I use no more the 30 percent (often as low as 15). It still feels great, and I can respond to slides much more easily and quickly. Also, try driving with the " in the car view ". I Never liked this when driving with a controller, but I find I realize a slide (oversteer) is occurring much earlier when viewed from the cockpit.I too agree, throttle control becomes a critical skill when driving with a wheel…
I will take some of the others advice from this thread and comment further later… I have a long way to go to get back to my prior “controller-level” performance…
Let’s keep this dialogue alive… Thanks to all for constructive help and comments.
In addition to my previous post/reply,
I also drive with all assists off, driveline set for braking only (personal preference), no clutch and paddle shifters (changing soon - waiting for clutch pedal set, already have shifter).
Shifting with paddle shifters can get frustrating when battling tough slides. I find I often loose track of where my down shift/ up shift paddles are… They are quite nice when oversteer isn’t a big issue though.
To answer another part of your original question… Vibration is more about sensing when… your wheels are spinning… Or They are off the pavement… Or they are Chattering under heavy braking(wheel hop)… Etc.
I like to keep vibration on, and near max… I find it provides great feedback similarl to real world driving.
One last comment… Try picking your favorite cars and heading to car meets for showdowns… The racing is great, fewer cars to get it your way, and you get to drive what you want and in whatever class you want… I regularly eat Hypercars With my D class MonteCarlo, beating them by more than the amount of my head start… Sometimes when people complain (and the often do), I will wait at the start line till they start… Then beat them anyway… That usually shuts them up. I think the wheel makes that possible because I can drive so smoothly. You will begin to notice controller drivers by how jittery they appear when driving…
Again, let’s keep this thread alive…
Happy Racing
Just a few things I found dor settings,most ppl use different settings for different classes I use 360 for d c and b I use 540 for r class not really tried the other classes much
My ffb and sensitivity are at 75% ive had the wheel for a month or so and before I raced with tcs and full line but since getting the wheel I’m using braking line and no tcs
Driving fwd and awd is not such a problem I’m quicker on wheel that pad now! But rwd is another problem but I put that down to my heavy foot on the gas! I think that’s a problem for most wheel users I’ve started to put a piece of rubber behind my pedal when racing high classes or rwd it does not travel the full way now! So when I get on the gas out of corners it does not apply full throttle just a few things that helped me !