I’m looking for quick and dirty alignment for my old deathtraps. So far I mostly ended up setting front camber to about -1.0 and rear camber to about -0.8, give or take. I did try looking at telemetry but when I do, I usually end up with way higher camber than that, which usually makes for worse understeer. I haven’t touched toe or caster since I don’t understand it. My preferred races are Goliath and other fast tracks with medium to long turns set to summer / dry weather. I don’t know if this is relevant but I have all assists turned off, use controller, prefer oversteer, don’t mind a bit of instability.
1968 Dodge Dart Hemi Super Stock
1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302
1969 Oldsmobile 442
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
1970 Mercury Cougar Eliminator
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T
1972 Hoonigan Napalm Nova
1977 Pontiac Firebird Trans-Am
1988 Chevrolet Montecarlo SS
1990 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
All of my S1 RWD front engine tunes have at least -1.5 front camber, -0.5 rear camber, 0.1 toe out front, -0.3 toe in rear, and almost universally 6.0 caster. Using more toe-in on rear helps the car catch grip faster after loss. Some of my super front heavy tunes run -0.5 toe in rear. Running toe out on rear will cause the tires to lose traction faster. Sometimes that can help with understeer, but camber and differential adjustments definitely help a lot more with that.
I try not to run too much camber on the driving wheels, in this case rear. -0.5 rear camber is a good fit for me overall. Since you mention you run a lot of Goliath/endurance-esque, I’d run -1.0 rear camber as it’ll run better on those high speed curves. To reduce fishtailing when running that higher rear camber, drop your rear diff lock quite a bit… I run 20%. Throttle control will be key in this kind of setup. That higher rear camber provides better curve grip but less stability. Using toe in on rear counteracts this. Adding a low diff lock allows you to run <50% throttle unlocked. You can use that to your advantage by low throttle into and through corners, then slowly bringing it up as you exit only smashing full right as you end the apex into the straightaway or next turn.
Aside from that, stiffer rear rollers always helps.
Just trying out the '70 Cougar and the '90 Camaro with -1.5 / -0.5 camber, 0.1 / -0.3 toe, 6.0 caster made a considerable difference. More cornering speed, less mishaps and faster recovery when the tail steps out - and it looks like laptimes are faster and more consistent. Will use it for all of the muscle cars and maybe look into cranking up rear camber.
I’ll also note: downshifting beyond the limiter will slow the car way faster than just braking. Unless you run with sim damage and are meaning to be competitive, you may as well do this all the time. If you run man/clutch, you can dump the clutch exiting corners to gain more speed on exit, but only if you can maintain steering while doing so. With RWD muscle, this is tricky even for me after all these years. I just run near the limiter through the corner, then slam the throttle on exit. A decent compromise from my experience (because the rev limiter acts as a pseudo-TCS) but took me about three months to get down to where I’m comfortable doing it. All depends on driving style, though. That’s mine. Probly doesn’t work for a whole lot of people, but it does me. Might give it a shot if you’ve got the same sort of tacky driver I am.