My Google-Fu is weak today.... Who are some good YouTubers that can show me how to tune?

Hi, I don’t do tutorials on YouTube, but if you message me which car you want to tune I’ll show you via twitch. I always get podium lap times and I tune all my own vehicles. My gamertags is Joltronic

if you want to learn how to tune in forza read this:

RSI RoTaX STiG’s Tuning Guide - Yes, I’m Bored

Yes, I’m 16, I don’t even know where I learnt allthis, probably within the last few years as I’ve taken up racing.
In-case you don’t know, telemetry can be found bypressing up on the D-pad while driving, but do at least 3 laps to geteverything up to temperature before you start tuning.
Keep pressures between 30 and 34psi when hot to keepthe contact patch big. The optimum contact patch and therefore amount offriction is at 32psi but temperatures are more important than contact patch incars, probably because temperatures determine the amount of friction more thancontact patch on cars as they ‘roll’. Increasing pressure decreases temperatureand decreasing increases it. Optimum temperature is at 193.6 I think, and Ihave no idea why, I think I heard it on Formula 1, someone let me know if thisis correct :slight_smile:
On tracks with huge straights it can be an advantageto run 55psi in the rear to increase rolling resistance but only do this if thecar is FWD/AWD because otherwise you will loose a lot of grip at yourdrive-wheels.

NEVER HIT THE LIMITER (except when flat-shifting)yes, always flat/power-shift.
Set-up your final drive for maximum overall power onthe biggest straight of a track and setup the rest of the gears individually sothat you don’t hit the limiter anywhere else.


Camber: Set-up this for even temperatures acrossyour front and rear tyres. A good starting point is -0.5/-0.5. If the inside ofthe tyre is cooler than the outside, increase camber and if it’s hotterdecrease it.
Toe: Avoid using any more than -/+0.7 because itwill affect your speed dramatically. I rarely use anything on the front,sometimes 0.1 for tracks like Nurburgring GP when cars never want to turn-inand never any negative toe on the front or positive on the rear. I often use upto -0.7 on the rear to keep the rear of the car stable through chicanes and ifI can’t get it balanced through tuning the anti-roll bars.
Caster: I almost always use maximum (7.0) becausealthough this will make the car extremely responsive, which I like because Irace karts, it gives better braking + accelerating grip as it keeps the tyresstraighter/the contact patch bigger by allowing you to run less camber.Decrease this in 0.5 increments if you cannot get the camber set-up evenly,this is not often, or when the car is too twitchy. It also allows the car toride better over bumps because the suspension is more angled towards them, so itaids damping.

As a car goes round a corner, the body rolls. Forinstance, in a right-hand turn, the car will roll left and put the majority ofits weight on the outside tyres. The front and rear anti-roll-bars are how youadjust which tyre (front/back) takes how much load/weight. The stiffer aroll-bar is, the more it will resist load, therefore not accepting weight on atyre and rejecting grip. This is how you add/remove/shift grip from one end ofa car to the other. So if you want more grip at the front, you soften the frontand stiffen the rear, and if you want more grip at the rear, soften the rearand stiffen the front. This is referred to as ‘roll-stiffness’. I usually putthe rear on 40:00 and keep increasing the front in 2.50 increments until therear stops sliding. Alternatively you could increase the front and decrease therear simultaneously (2:50/37:50, 5:00/35:00 etc…) but it doesn’t really makeany difference and the stiffer the front is the more stability you will have onturn-in (extremely useful for chicanes).
(If you reach more than 30:00 on the front and thecar is still sliding then you will need to decrease the rear. This is becauseif the front is stiffer than 30:00 the car won’t want to turn as the tyres willbe rejecting too much load. If you do reach 30:00/40:00 then I recommendresetting to 20:00/20:00 and going from there – 22:50/17:50, 25:00/15:00 etc…)
Stiffer roll-bars will also increase tyre temperatureand softer, decrease, but roll stiffness is more important than tyretemperatures in Forza or at least it is when NOT using simulation.
(Here’s a video that suddenly made the majority ofsuspension setup make sense to me, it’s karting-based but its really good - ‘Roll Stiffness’)

(‘Car weight’ + ‘down-force at front/rear’) / 100 *‘weight % at front/rear’ / ‘ride height at front/rear’ * ‘g-force’
/ = divide

  • = multiply
    (‘G-force’ is found by either attempting to installa new part or tune; it’s usually something like 1.211)
    An example: (2240 + 100) / 100 * 55 / 4.5 * 1.211 = 346.34600(346.5)
  • You will need to do this for thefront AND rear
    Ride height: Always use minimum because it lowersthe centre of gravity and increases down-force without you knowing it, or atleast it does in real-life. If the car gets dodgy over bumps then increase itby 0.5 front and rear and if it bottoms-out/hits the ground and your loosingcontrol then keep increasing it by 0.5 until it doesn’t. If you reach maximumand it still does it then increase the damping (bump) stiffness by 0.5 frontand rear until it stops.

Basically, it’s impossible to get perfect so I justleave the rebound standard and put the bump on 1.0/1.0 because it increasesturn-in grip as it allows the car to roll/shift load quicker.

Always attempt to get away with as little down-forceas possible as it will give you more speed. In FWD and AWD cars I usually startwith minimum and increase the front in 25lb increments if it means that I cantake a corner flat. This is because it’ll find a lot of time, but this is notoften. Increase the rear as well if the rear becomes dodgy as you increase thefront. In RWD cars I usually start with maximum front and rear and decrease therear by 25lb until it begins to slide/wheel-spin.

A good starting point for the balance is between 48%.This is because it will aid turn-in grip and stability. If the turn-in grip andstability on your car is still **** then use 42%. I don’t think I’ve ever usedanything except 48% and 42% although the best setting would be when the frontand rear tyres lock at the same time, but this is usually at something stupidlike 35% on Forza because of the strange game physics. Try not to go below 42%as it will begin to make the foot-brake feel like a handbrake and higher than57% as it will cause under-steer while braking.

The lower the percentage, the more stability you’llget under braking+/coasting and accelerating and the higher the setting themore stability you will get during a corner.
A good setting:
FWD: 28%/0%
RWD: 50%/25%
AWD: 32%/0% 53%/53% 67%
Never use any deceleration for FWD because it’s notneeded and you will rarely use a car that requires it/a high-powered-FWD car.
I also recommend never putting the rear decelerationon AWD cars below about 49% because otherwise the rear inside tyre will slipduring tight corners and overheat it which will waste grip.
The best setting for the torque/power split on AWDcars is as high as possible because it will give you more front-end grip as itwill give the tyres less work to do and the car will begin to handle more likea RWD however, the higher it is, the less stability you will have whenengine-braking. I usually start at 80% then work down in 5% increments untilthe car is stable under braking in all gears that I’m going to use (the lowerthe gear, the less stable the car will be).


· Use the clutch and flat/power-shift.
· Don’t use ABS because it aids turn-ingrip+/stability.
· Never use stability control because it’sbasically automatic braking (for travelling sideways).
· Only use traction control inhigh-powered-RWD cars (R1 and X class).
· Use cosmetic damage because you willhave more grip (no tyre wear) and it will allow you to engine-brake moreviciously.
My Fanatec wheel settings:
‘sen’: 200
‘ff’: 100
‘sho’: 100
‘dri’: 001
‘abs’: 75
In-game ‘advanced’ controller options: 1/100, 0/100,0/100, 25/75, 100, 100, 100, 100.



Sorry you just lost all credibility, Who the F puts a deadzone on fanatec wheels smh!!! lol

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very useful information bud, thanks for sharing.

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Thanks for sharing

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another suggestion is go look at the open source tunes from gtfootw or any of the other tuners on here . then message them with your questions about why they did certain things , that is the method i used in fm2 along with asking help from the faster drivers for help on track.

and the biggest tip of all , tuning is all trial and error making mistakes is the best way to learn

also that info in the guide above is terrible at best IMO , half of it is copy past from Worms’s guide and the rest is all what worked for that guy on his wheel and telling people what assists to use is a giant no no . right now there are 2 things we as people posting do not know :

a) if the person uses a wheel
b) what their prior knowledge of tuning is if any


reaper you are entitled to your opinion but it is quite the contrary really. Dan Brown posted that information back in the Forza 3 tuning section years ago. that tuning section is now gone due to a forum update. reapers suggestion to look at open source tunes is a very good idea as well. ers johnson is an excellent tuner and driver and if he is offering help it would be in your best interest to take it.

Once my forza 6 sync issue is taken care of i will be twitching tuning and racing… who knows when that will be but my twitch channel is below in my sig if ur interested

“they like to keep things mystic and cryptic when honestly tuning in forza is very easy”

I nearly spit out my coffee, lol! THANK YOU for saying this, so true.

thank you buddy. FOOT is another one of the good ones and so is HMR Motorhead, these guys tell the truth. you can learn volumes by looking at open source tunes. you will see similarities such as soft springs, high rebound, low bump. also i feel some people put out misinformation as well. i think anyone currently who puts out any type of formula to calculate anything is pulling your leg. tuning is always done by feel and all that means is controlling 2 things oversteer and understeer.

hers is my base tune for all cars:

Tires: 30.0/30.0

Transmission: set the final drive so you do not hit the limiter on the longest straight of the track you are racing on. give 5 to 10 additional clicks to the left to accommodate drafting.

Camber: -0.9/-0.7

Toe: Default. Once the tune is finished if the car does not turn in well add +.2 front and possibly +.1 rear. This will make the car turn in better. Never add - toe to the front!

Caster: 5.0

ARB: 20 front and 20 rear then offset in 5lb increments from there example 25/15 or 15/25 etc. Or use 1/40 10/30 20/20 30/10 40/1. 1/40 is maximum oversteer and 40/1 is maximum understeer.

Springs: use telemetry to be sure i am using the full range of motion but not staying at the top of the bar too long.

Ride height: Minimum.

Aero: Max but on the slow lower class cars Min because the slow cars do not go fast enough to require downforce.

Damping: Rebound is Default and Bump is 1.0/1.0

Brake: 48% balance and 130% force. If the car oversteers when you apply the brakes move brake bias toward the front with a range of 48 to 55. If the brakes lock when applying the brakes lower the brake pressure.

Diff: RWD 10% Accel and 30% Decel
Diff: FWD 100% Accel and 30% Decel

always use a clutch, remap clutch to the A button. always power shift, never use a flywheel or clutch as part of your cars build.
the better driver you are the better tuner you will become, so work on your driving first. you have to be able to push cars to there limit to expose flaws.

i am sure i am leaving some things out but i will let reaper pick this apart first. lol

And what is this post meant to be??? cant quite figure it out… It says tuning guide, but I cant find it anywhere above…

you wanted a video and here is one by one of the best in forza

the problem with all the videos imo is they dont tell you why they changed what they changed. Crav does a little explanation on the roll bars of that car but they never tell you how they came up with there spring rate or dampers settings.

It’s all about the feelz.

I’d love to try some of your tunes SM0K0. What have you shared?

i shared a fwd fiat, it might have been an alfa, and bmw 190 for spec races then took them back down. i have a 53 corvette i could share that i have some top 10’s with but then i would lose all my top times too you lol.

Dude, I’m slow as she ite.

When you next share, give me a shout,

ONR has some if the best drivers and best tuners available. Get your own tunes lol.

I think we can agree that someone with your talent would say my tunes under steer and someone with my talent would say your tunes oversteer.

Craviator has a good “B Class” tune for the “Ford Lotus Cortina”. Its technically for Forza 5 and not Forza 6, so the numbers are a bit off, but if you follow his tune and add 16" rims to the rear and keep the Stock Restrictor Plate that gets you back into B Class. It sounds awesome and is a great drive… .

I’ve been playing with a lot of these guys tunes Smoko mentioned. W/o even trying I can get in the top 1% on most of the tracks. I guess the point I’m trying to make is no matter how different each tune is, it still takes great driving to get those low times. Practice x100

Well… This was an interesting read :wink:


Great info in this thread,mate. Thank you.

Dumb question: What do you mean by flat/power shift?