My A class Lancia 037 Full build and tune explained in detail.

Forza Motorsport Legacy Motorsport FM4 Discussion
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Hi guys first off if I’m posting this in wrong discussion my apologies. Now moving on…

Hello everyone, I’m not very active around the forums usually but I am online quite often and I can be found on the leaderboards as well. Tonight I was messing around with a car that I never drive online due to the amount of complaints from people but I have noticed a lot of people often have questions as to how to improve or how to tune/build and I am by no means an expert as I’m sure some may have a thing or 2 to say about the build/tune I’m about to share; none the less I build all of my cars and I have never had an issue posting top times. (I dont mean to toot my horn just trying to prove a point.)

I will be sharing with you all my A class Lancia 037 which has phenomenal grip and is extremely efficient around almost anywhere. To name a few examples:

Suzuka Full 2:10.3
Sunsent Full R 1:33.7
Sedona Full 2:20.8
Camino Viejo Full 1:06.2
Rd. America 2:15.7
Rd. Atlanta Full 1:26.6
Silverstone Full 1:58.1
Catalunya Full 1:54.9

Most of these times were posted by running no more than 4 laps per track and yeah not all were clean (Catalunya last chicane…) but I’m not cutting every corner to gain seconds the mistakes I made that cost me a clean lap were honest mistakes not me trying to gain time off a lap.

So…

Conversion:
no changes, leave the Twin Screw Supercharger

Aero:
Front and Rear Forza Aero.

Tires and Rims:
Compound - Race
Front tire width - Stock
Rear tire width - Full/Max
Rim - Hole Shot Sun star (or any other of the lightest ones.)
Rim size - Stock (front and rear)

Drivetrain:
Clutch - Stock
Transmission - Stock
Driveline - Race
Differential - Race

Platform and Handling:
Brakes - Race
ARBs - Race (front and rear)
Weight Reduction - Race

Engine and Power:
Air Filter - Race
Carburetor - Sport
Ignition - Sport
Exhaust - Race
Camshaft - Street
Valves - Stock
Displacement - Race
Pistons and Compression - Race
Twin Screw Super Charger - Race
Intercooler - Stock
Flywheel - Stock

If everything went smoothly you all should have an A600 PI Lancia 037. Numbers will look like this:

Speed 5.9
Handling 6.7
Accel. 8.2
Launch 8.5
Braking 7.0

Power- 367 HP
Torque- 287 LB-FT
Weight- 2,116 LBS
Front- 46 %
Displ.- 2.3 L

Now on to the tune. This is how I normally tune ALL my vehicles and while there isnt really a “secret fomula” I’ve actually found that the general guideline I use creates an INCREDIBLE starting point VERY often only needing little adjustment. Some may like how the car feels some may not and this will more often than not come down to driving style but as I mentioned before I will share MY tune.

Tire Pressure:

Front - 30.0
Rear - 29.5
NOTE: this is the tire pressure I ALWAYS use for RWD cars.

Gearing:

N/A

Alignment:

Camber
Front - (-0.8)
Rear - (-1.0)

Toe
Front - (-0.1)
Rear - (-0.2)

Front Caster
Angle - 6.0
NOTE: This is how I normally set up 99% of my cars with the exception of certain cars with drastic changes in the Front Caster department. It may not be right but thats just how I do it

ARBs
Front - 22.0
Rear - 29.5
NOTE: Cars with the engine in the back/middle normally have a softer FRONT ARB than the REAR ARB. Cars with RWD and the engine at the front I usually tune with a stiffer FRONT ARB and softer (a lot of times MUCH softer) REAR ARB. To tune this you also gotta work with the differential but to give a sorta general idea the further the front and rear ARBs are from each other meaning rear very soft and front very stiff the more likely the car is to oversteer (this goes for RWD cars with engine at the front switch the stiffness/softness if the engine is the back/middle like this Lancia) Bring them closer to sort out oversteer or if the car is understeering then separate them while working with the differential which I will explain at the bottom.
It may not be right but thats just how I do it

Springs:

Springs
Front - 294.5
Rear - 327.5
NOTE: I ALWAYS set the springs soft and with RWD cars I ALWAYS make the rear just a little stiffer. Again it may not be right but thats just how I do it

Ride Height
Front - 3.7
Rear - 3.7
NOTE: I use to always lower my cars as much as possible but in doing that you cause your car to scrape/bottom out which is NOT good and it does make you lose not only control but time as well. This is particularly true at tracks with a lot of elevation changes or high rumble strips like Mugello/Maple/Sebring/Camino/Sedona/Suzuka. As a result I NEVER lower my car all the way but I do try and keep it as low as possible without having to worry about what was previously mentioned. This is one those things you are just gonna have to tune as you test drive the car. (I ALWAYS tune ride height at Mugello) Again it may not be right but thats just how I do it

Damping:

Rebound Stiffness
Front - 12.0
Rear - 12.0

Bump Stiffness
Front - 0.0
Rear - 0.0
NOTE: This is how I set up my Rebound stiffness and Bump stiffness for 99% of my cars. Again it may not be right but thats just how I do it

Aero:

Downforce
Front - 133lbs (Full)
Rear - 277lbs (Full)
NOTE: This is how I set up my downforce for 99% of my cars. Again it may not be right but thats just how I do it

Braking:

Force Balance - 45%
Force Pressure - 145%
NOTE: This is how I set up EVERY single one of my cars. I know you can take weight and things like that into consideration and I’m sure there is a way to optimize braking but this I found to be the best way to get consistent at not locking up (this is for those that run NO ABS) If you always run the same break pressure it develops into muscle memory allowing you to consistently brake late (Which is the advantage of turning ABS off) and NOT locking up or at least thats my take on it xD (145 is sorta high so try different pressures see what suits you best.)

Differential:

Accel. - 47%
Deceleration - 6%
NOTE: The accel will ALWAYS be higher than your decel. and in many cases decel. will stay at 0%. Here is how I tune this:

I normally start at around 40 - 50 accel. This varies depending on the weight/grip of the car, HP and Torque.

Example: Not a lot of grip, high accel. and torque (upwards of 430+hp) I will probably start at around 40% on the other hand grippy with around 300+ hp I will probably start at 50%. Decel I always start at 0%. Then you hit the track and tune accordingly. What I have noticed is that this is one of the best ways to control oversteer/understeer. (remember to work accordingly with your ARBs).
If the car is oversteering then tone down the accel. and up the decel. usually increments of 2% due the trick. On some special cases cars just like to oversteer and it really is just the nature of the car dont be afraid to set your accel. as low as 15% if needed also you never really wanna go over 10% with decel. (at least I never do) Again it may not be right but thats just how I do it

I hope that you guys like it, I also hope it helps you become a faster/better driver. I will also like to end by saying there is really no such thing as a magical car/tune/build. Sure some cars are easier to drive and in the hands of a good driver they can flat out dominate BUT a leaderboard/dominant/cheater or whatever other ridiculous excuses/names people come up with will only be as good as the driver. I actually have my RS1800 and Exige along with a bunch of other cars up in my storefront and while I do get a lot of compliments I rarely see others run the same times as me specially in some tricky cars IE: Toyota Altezza and Ferrari Dino.

My point being that when you have the same tune/car/build and there is still a marginal difference in times IT WILL BE DOWN TO THE DRIVER, CARS DONT DRIVE THEMSELVES.
I’ve found that for those that complain in Forza about the so called leaderboard cars dont really disagree with the car you are driving the disagree with the level of skill at which you drive it. I hope you all can enjoy the car on and offline without having to hear it from others.

Depending on the response I get I would be happy to share more of these with the community dont forget to check out my storefront Keyword “H8”

Cheers!

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I like the stock gear , great info on diff, and i got 1 of your cars to try and drive. i run b class and your set up worked great.THANK YOU

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I like the stock gear , great info on diff, and i got 1 of your cars to try and drive. i run b class and your set up worked great.THANK YOU

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@oldmanpork Glad this helped you out and thanks for the reply!

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it works in b class lower front tire 1 ck for turn in. thank you.

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it works in b class lower front tire 1 ck for turn in. thank you.

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i like the lancia i have a similar bold for fuji, BUT you should loose the race tires. sport is more than enough on stock width in a class for the straddle. will give you enough room for sport cams and chassis. (always advise going for a sport chassis upgrade) same with aero, its not needed in a class.

try swapping the arbs round so the front is at 21 (ish) and the rear about 18, try front camber -0.9 rear -0.7

also because of the way your suspension and rebound are set you’re bottoming out when you hit the bump, then launching off the ground when the rebound hits. drop the rebound to 9 front and 8.6 rear, bring the bump to 4.3 and rear to 3.9 will give the car a much improved balance.

I tried the tune and did feel it was stable but unbalanced, so this is just a thought.

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excuse the spelling my mac seems to have a different idea on how things should be spelled.

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@Sparco Racing91 Thanks for the input. I did try the setup as you suggested and I was nowhere near the times with my setup, easily about 2 almost 3 seconds back. As far as no aero for A class I can tell you all of the fastest cars in the game (with the exception of the V12 Vantage) in A class have aero and race tires are a must on most occasions. I consistently place in the top 100 of the world and my setups have never failed me. I’m gonna guess that if your setups allow you to be in the top 100 of the world without race tires and aero your driving style is very different from mine and HUGE ups to you for it. Thanks again for trying it out and of course for your input.

PS: I’m curious where are you bottoming out? because I have never had this problem with the 037.

Cheers!

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See I can’t run with aroe because I pull maximum grip from the tires so as soon as I clip a curb with aroe the car end up barrel rolling, and I personally found sport tires to offer near identical grip especially when the cars are stuck like glue anyway, so for me personally I’d rather pump the extra power in over grip that for me makes no difference.

I look for acceleration out of corners over anything else. It’s a difference in styles. Again my sugjestion saves over a second a lap for me (the tune).

By the way natrually aspirated supra 8.01.998 flying lap round the ring, stock tires no aroe (dirty) you tell me :wink:

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See I can’t run with aroe because I pull maximum grip from the tires so as soon as I clip a curb with aroe the car end up barrel rolling, and I personally found sport tires to offer near identical grip especially when the cars are stuck like glue anyway, so for me personally I’d rather pump the extra power in over grip that for me makes no difference.

I look for acceleration out of corners over anything else. It’s a difference in styles. Again my sugjestion saves over a second a lap for me (the tune).

By the way natrually aspirated supra 8.01.998 flying lap round the ring, stock tires no aroe (dirty) you tell me :wink:

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See I can’t run with aroe because I pull maximum grip from the tires so as soon as I clip a curb with aroe the car end up barrel rolling, and I personally found sport tires to offer near identical grip especially when the cars are stuck like glue anyway, so for me personally I’d rather pump the extra power in over grip that for me makes no difference.

I look for acceleration out of corners over anything else. It’s a difference in styles. Again my sugjestion saves over a second a lap for me (the tune).

By the way natrually aspirated supra 8.01.998 flying lap round the ring, stock tires no aroe (dirty) you tell me :wink:

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@Sparco Racing91 The ring is one of the few tracks where you can run no aero like I mentioned the V12 Vantage with no aero is the leaderboard car there. Let me get this straight, you are saying that without aero and race tires you were a second faster than the times I posted at top? Meaning you were running 2:09s at Suzuka and 1:53s at Catalunya etc…? Im gonna call that out right now: IMPOSSIBLE! As a matter of fact I dont even think you tried the tune since you didn’t tell me where it bottoms you also didnt tell me either if your tunes without aero and sport tires allow you to get in the top 100.

By the way top 10 in all the A class track day Rival Challenges and 53 in overall Circuit A. I’ll tell you… I think you are lying. Have a good day bro.

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Bottoms out at the Nuremburg GP track and bounced like a rabbit. No I didn’t test round the tracks listed above, no where in any post did I say I did. “I tested the car” means I tested it not I tested it on your list. It bottoms out round Fuji too.

Ps. I’m at work on break.

Bloody spell checker

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@Sparco Racing91 You said your tune was a second faster, how did you come to that conclusion if you didnt test it on the tracks I mentioned? Fujimi with sport tires and no aero? get out of here… xD We’ll just agree to disagree. Again though thanks for your opinion and for giving it a go!

PS: Just saw your lap times both at Fuji and The Ring, Fuji you are somewhere in the 14ks and 47ks; your clean lap at the ring is 8:13.729 flying. I doubt you ran an 8:01 even if you say it was dirty 12 seconds is a lot of time to lose just by running clean. I run 8:08s from a standstill without the V12 Vantage maybe you should try my advice… :slight_smile:

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Still trying to build on the wheel haha! Will give it another go tomorrow when I’ve not been up 14 hours! Fuji I’m struggling to string a clean lap together at all… but back to the tune it’s a second faster for me than your version. Used your build but my suspension setting after trying yours. It’s good but like I said I’m quicker with my set up on the suspension (it’s what I’m used to and feels responsive through the wheel)

If you have any tips you could share in terms of the ring that’d be great though. (8.13.729 was done in race conditions which I thought was pretty damn good for a non turbo 6 cyl hehe especially with no assists or racing line)

Ps. How come you run such a low diff setting… 78-83 acel and deceleration both identical is what I run helps me get out of the corner better. I’m interested in that because personally I found a slower lock put me into a slide accelerating out of the corners, also with the split diff I keep loosing the back end under braking (not negative torque locking) it just steps out. If you have any info on that, it would be handy to know please.