Mid and rear engined cars difficult to drive?

I consider myself to be a pretty seasoned forza driver, I’ve been playing the franchise since forza 3. But for some reason In this game i have a lot of trouble driving mid and rear engined cars because They want to slide around every corner, I’m constantly having to flick the steering in the opposite direction to keep the car from going sideways which results in slower lap times. I’ve resulted in using front engined cars only because of this reason.

Does anyone else have this trouble and do you have any tips on how to counteract it? There’s a lot of cars I love but just can’t use competitively anymore because of the steering mechanics in the game. I play on simulation steering by the way, in case that has anything to do with it.

Have you tried:

  1. A tune
  2. Turning TCS and/or STM on (no CR penalty)
  3. Being very gentle with throttle coming out of a corner. Easing into it helps as opposed to going straight from 0% - 100%.

Use lower accel diff and higher decel diff settings.


differential settings are the key

Can someone explain to me how the diff works in a super dumb easy way? I was under the impression that lowering the decal decreases throttle lift off oversteer but maybe I was wrong??

Upping the deceleration locks the diff up quicker give more resistance to rotating

It’s possibly just that homologation means you’re running less grip than you’re used to for any given car.

The mid and rear engine cars seem to exibit alot of lift off oversteer which makes the much harder to control during turns. Keeping a small amount of throttle applied while you brake and turn can help keep the car stable, a good tune will help Alot as well.

This is very much the case. Lift-Off oversteer seems to be extremely prevalent in this physics version of the game compared to previous ones. And it’s especially noticeable in mid and rear engine cats because the additional rear weight. When lifting off the gas some of the cars have a snap effect to the rear end.

This can be very beneficial, making it easy to rotate a car in a corner. But it requires a delicate balance of braking, lifting and re-applying throttle. The recommendation to keep a little bit of throttle going while in the turn makes a big difference. It’s often the case in real race cars that they will use both throttle and brake simultaneous in a corner to maintain some power and grip with the rear.

This. Lift throttle effect is insane in this game making RWD stock cars a pain.

They are not any harder to drive than any other drivetrain configuration. Mid engine rear drive and or rear engine rear drive cars just transfer the weight during braking and acceleration differently from the front engine cars you said you are used to. Sounds like maybe you are having trouble with throttle control coming out of the corners as well as braking issues due to unloading the rear tires prematurely. I don’t fully know your driving style, but if you are coming into the braking zones to hot and trying to compensate for that by jamming the brakes on to hard or to quickly your only result will be unloading the rear tires causing the rear to break away.

If I knew more about your driving style I could help more. My best advice is first off if you have an adjustable differential either raise or lower the decel setting to your liking. I believe raising it higher should help with the rear tire unloading issue. Unless they got it backwards again like in Forza 6. Another part to adjust would be the brake bias setting. Increase your front brake bias that should help also with the rear tires unloading. For accelerating out of the corner decrease your accel setting. That will help with the car breaking loose to quickly from hard acceleration.

If neither of those parts can be adjusted I would advise being vigilant about how you apply your brake pressure upon entering a braking zone. Just like a high horsepower front engine rear drive car will break loose without TCS. The same can be said for the mid/rear engine rear drive cars under heavy braking. You need to gradually ease into the brakes slowly applying more pressure as you approach the apex of the turn. Trail braking can still be achieved, but it requires a lot of finesse between both the throttle and brake inputs. Which leads me to my last bit of advice. With these types of cars (MR/RR) you never really want to be on or off the throttle or brakes at any one time. You will need a mix off the two combined to have total control of the car. Abruptly letting off the throttle to perform braking will upset the car and unload the tires both front and rear. You have to always be on one or the other and somewhat mix the two together to keep from unsettling the car.

One last thing you say you use simulation steering. If you are on a wheel I recommend using normal steering only for wheels. If you are using a pad controller I would still recommend using the normal steering for a little while to get used to how the weight transfers on these types of cars. Then once you got it down pat switch back to simulation steering. Hope this helps. If you want you can describe some of your issues further and maybe I can provide more help.

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Good point Blue. Two of my go to cars are the F50 and the 037. In 5 and 6 I was running both with a tight diff to counter the understeer. I transferred tunes for both and had to open the diff to reduce the lift off oversteer. The physics have been tweaked a little in 7.

Yep my cats constantly oversteer around the kitchen bench haha, but seriously, if anyone has watched Ayrton Senna driving the Honda nsx at Suzuka with his loafers, pay close attention the his throttle aplication. He will heel toe dowwnshift but hold throttle and brake at the same time when entering the corner.

Nearly all race car drivers drive two footed (braking with the left foot). Somewhat counter intuitive to the way we are taught when first learning how to drive. But the advantages can be great.

Its to settle down the car. And if ur car has turbo, to spool it up.

For most mid and rear engine cars I find myself putting a rear wing on to counter the oversteer. It does hurt the top end speed, but on most tracks it doesn’t hurt because your not likely to get close to the top speed. Acceleration time is slightly hurt but I found the needed grip from the wing is well worth the trade off for me in this game compared to previous versions.

Aero at lower speed doesn’t help so much.

Fact is, a lot of these cars will always be prone to getting a wiggle on. It’s a matter of dialing the car in so that it’s predictable and controllable.

Using a wing will only mask the problem. Learn to drive the car first then add a wing later if you want. Doing the opposite will only set you back. I recommend that with all handling issues. I to struggled with the MR/RR cars when I first got Forza 6, but I was determined to learn how to control the car without adding parts. I dialed up the front brake bias and yeah I could then control the car. That was only masking the issues I was having. I didn’t fully learn how to drive the car until I removed all the crutches ie tuneable parts. They won’t hurt anything but in reality they are just crutches. If you learn to drive the car without the crutches, it will help when you do challenges with rental cars without being able to tune them.

Haven’t had a problem yet. I have been idly wondering if there are any rear engine cars I can make AWD and keep within their homologation restrictions, though, so I can jury rig some rear engine FWD fun.

I spent a bit of time in the new GT2 RS today in multiplayer, as it was the only car in my garage for exotic GT hopper, I found around corners other then the very slowest tightest corners, I held 3rd, rather then dropping to 2nd like I normally would, for a lot of these corners it helped keep the car stable and eliminated a lot of wheel spin and that awkward slide you can get into that really slows you down.