Got to say the game has become much more enjoyable after learning how to tune… All the complaints about cars understearing is cleared up once you tune each car correctly and dont overdrive it… It can quite literally stick like glue if you tune it right… This is driving with a tx wheel…Now I obviously dont own every car but all the ones I do own drive substantially better tuned…So anyone having understeer issues and oversteer should learn how to tune or at very least download a tune from a good tuner and give it a try…
While it is true that tuning can solve most issues, it should not be required that a car be tuned in order to drive normally. In general the cars in game with default setups or modified but untuned setups tend to be much looser than they should be. Pretty much all road cars are stock tuned for understeer IRL for safety reasons but in game many of them oversteer badly.
I can say that if you keep your speed in check and dont overdrive the car “usually” the stock tune is ok… You wont be competitive online with it “usually” though…Some are worse then others… Yes some are very bad…
Most of the cars we are racing aren’t track cars not are they set up to race from the factory. Most of these cars are mass produced street cars which all tend to be set up in favour of understeer rather than balance on the track.
When you then attempt to track these cars at the limit you tend to notice these understeer tendencies a lot more than say, city driving.
I do agree with what you said but I don’t think the cars all oversteer that badly, and those that do are not the road cars we see every day.
All the people complaining about understeer may not understand that is how the car is set up because they’re never driven a car in real life like they would in Forza. Of course tuning can help balance the characteristics of the car but it can also introduce new issues because ins always a give and take.
This would be wonderful if it was the case but I find most of the FWD lower class cars, the cars that should constantly be understeering, actually oversteer. Example, The '13 MINI JCW GP. I own this car and I’ve had it on the track. It is mostly neutral handling but if you go into a corner too hot you’ll understeer and go wide. Turn too sharply? Car goes straight. Want to know how to induce oversteer in this car? You almost have to us the handbrake. A regular MINI is an understeer beast in stock form. Combine FWD with high torque and the thing plows all day long. In the game I spin-out (oversteer) regularly when this car is set-up as stock. It takes some tuning to get these cars to come back to feeling “normal” to their real life counterparts.
Where/how did you Learn to tune …I’m still hit and miss on tuning
But the game is much better if you can do it I’m having more fun inbetween league trying to time out issues I have with cars
I like to tune, and spend a lot of time on it, but the most difficult part is assessing what it is that needs to be tuned. And while driving, being able to determine precisely what is wrong… and not being confused that something is wrong with the car based on any particular turn or elevation change. In other words, a car can under and oversteer on the same track, for example.
Than you have to look at the specific aspect of the issue. ARB? Springs? Rebound? Alignment?
For me it’s somewhat trial and error, loosely based on previous experience, but more and more, I am not following a cookie cutter approach. Last night I found that no f/r ratio of roll bars helped, and it ended up in me lowering my f/r camber to -2, something I rarely do. Every time I adjusted ARBS, it was robbing Peter to pay Paul.
The fun is that there are so many combining factors in play with car, track, upgrade components, driving style (depending on car/drivetrain), etc. But that’s where it becomes a challenge as well.
Technique, build then tune. Am I wrong?
Yeah, I’m finding that a correct build is very important. Some of my more balanced builds end up faster than my all grip tunes where I spent too much PI on one area.
Most of the time I’m still downloading tunes for collision leagues and trying mine out on the ghost ones.
Worm’s tuning thread is pinned at the top of the Tuner’s Garage section of this web site. He’s the guy who made the big tuning thread in FM4, so he knows what he’s talking about.
http://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst48522_Tuning-Guide-for-FM6.aspx
If tuning was easy, it wouldn’t be as rewarding as it is. It’s always a matter of adjust and try, over and over. There is usually a matter of compromise involved, where changing one thing effects one or more other things.
It’s best to drive the car first to see what it needs and what it doesn’t.
I agree that tuning seems to be a requirement of FM6. I’m making my way through career and I’m finding that I sometimes need to tune per track in order to be competitive with the wheel. It feels like a lot of work and I wasn’t expecting to have to “play” that aspect of the game. However, it forces a dynamic to the game and I’m finding tuning to be somewhat enjoyable.
How did I learn to tune? Well, Forza is the first racing sim I’ve ever played and I started with 5 less than a year ago. So, here is my very very basic way I tune:
I use my knowledge of how a car will react to tuning in real life. I then apply that to the car, sometimes in over drastic ways, to make sure Forza is going to do what I expect, and then I will dial back the change until the car gets balanced. For example, setting brake bias to like 80% forward should increase braking distance but eliminate any rear-end wheel lockup. 80% would be very aggressive and probably not recommended but you’ll immediately feel a difference in the car and understand what that setting does. Skip things like camber and toe-in as those calculations can be a bit complicated and, at least I’ve found, make less of a difference than things like tire pressure, brake balance, suspension dampening, ride height, wing angles, etc. The data that you get in game is pretty decent. On tracks where I need more speed I dial handling back for more speed and then go practice driving a “loose” car. If the car is too “loose” I dial in more handling until I find a balance between speed and handling. On tracks with short straights I dial-in all the grip I can, generally at the sacrifice of straight-line speed, and just aggressively overtake on the corners leaving me enough of a gap to stay ahead of the faster cars on the straights. Also, change one thing at a time then drive a few laps, then change something else. Often it is the combination of changes that have the biggest effect so by changing only one thing at a time you’ll start to feel what that change is doing. Then you can put combinations together like increasing braking force, which will send the cars weight forward faster under braking and then stiffening the suspension to help counteract that. Good luck.
Tuning in career in kind of interesting because a lot of those cars are pretty close to the PI limit already to qualify for the events. I think one of my tunes I actually put on heavier wheels to drop my PI so I could go add some part that allowed me to tune something I felt was more important than the weight increase at the wheels. It dropped my lap times so Go tune, go test, tune again. Just takes time.
I learned alot in the tuners lounge part of this forum…Alot of good info there from guys/girls that have obviously spent alot of time learning how to…Its all trial and errir for me at this point…But if you dont yet want to do it on your own there are plenty of good tuners in that section of forum you can download their tunes and try them…Best thing about tuning yourself is you can taylor it to your driving style… Its too bad you cant just tweak the downloaded tune a little bit but I understand the reasons behind it…
Funny. Different people are good at different things. In Forza 4 I was a tuner in one of the clubs that painted and tuned a car for one of the monthly “Beat the Dev” Rivals contests, where a Turn 10 employee would set a time in Rivals, and everyone who beat that time would get the prize car free. Usually it was an expensive car. Well people would make requests of the club like paints or tunes for a specific car. I usually did the tunes, but once when we didn’t have a painter free, I was asked to do a paint. I gave it a shot, but it just wasn’t going to happen. I couldn’t do it.
I normally just drive. Stock cars or simple upgrades or conversions without tunes.
Typically, I look to test my driving by learning how to drive around the limitations of a stock car. If I need PI for career races, I’ll do very basic things like remove weight, change tyres or minor engine work. The kinds of things that are easily done IRL.
Last night however, I finally got around to throwing a couple of three minutes tunes on some cars and had a great time. I was particularly interested to see how it would transform the trickier cars and it was great. In cars that I previously had to drive delicately, I found myself attacking corners like I used to on a controller (switched to a wheel a month ago).
There were a couple of challenges:
My measures are in metric, so I had to do some conversions which I’ve since put into a spreadsheet to make it easier to do at any time.
The Metric unit of measure for pressure is bar and only shows at 1 decimal place in tuning menu, but in telemetry shows at 2 decimal places. The extra level of detail is in the tuning menu, just not visible. Example:
You can set 1.95 bar from 2,0 bar by clicking to the left 5 times, but you can’t see that on the tuning menu. This would be like being able to see 20 PSI but not being able to tell if you are on 21 or 29, pretty annoying.
The extra decimal place is needed as 1 bar = 14 PSI! Or I would be happy just using PSI as that’s in common use in Australia anyway, but it’s super annoying to switch units in settings every time I want to adjust tyre pressures …