So I’m tuning the Lotus Evora for the Sport Coupe division and I’m having trouble pinning down the lift off oversteer.
I’ve tried reducing the rear ARB, using some rear negative camber, reducing the rear decel differential, and reducing the rear rebound stiffness. These all seemed to help a bit, but its still fairly prevalent and quite annoying as I trail brake into a turn
Any suggestions (even things I’ve already tried but may have missed a detail about) would be greatly appreciated.
The rebound adjustment in particular is confusing. If you’ve read enough on the subject of damper tuning you’d find that reducing the setting can help your problem. My advice is to throw that out and read the info on that specific adjustment in the in-game tuning description for rebound adjustments. It’s going to tell you to increase the rebound setting to deal with lift off oversteer.
General advice for this specific car: it turns so effortlessly that trail braking is usually unnecessary. It’s sharp cornering abilities mean that you must be back on the throttle when you start to turn in, so to get the most out of it you need to have good throttle control skills. Once you get the hang of it the car is a blast to drive because it feels like it has unlimited front end grip.
Especially the bit from SgtFancypants98 about getting on the throttle at turn-in. Despite being a mid-engine car, it seems to drive more like a rear-engine. Funny enough, the transmission was also throwing me off. The default gear ratios were terrible for use at VIR. I lengthened the 2nd and 3rd gears a bit and it has done wonders.
I’ve found that the backend is just a little too skittish for my liking. Especially because most of the Drivatars brake in the middle of the corner, meaning I can’t keep the throttle on mid-corner. I need a car that can give me some light braking mid-corner so I don’t get a nasty surprise when I suddenly see brake lights in front of me at the apex.
Little more advice if you need it. Sometimes lowering tire pressure can help a lot in Oversteer in general. You want the PSI to be about 32-33.3 PSI when hot. Raising the deceleration can help massively too. Moving the braking bias forward can help. Keeping the car in a high gear can also help a lot. Rev matching can be important too if using manual with clutch.
Yeah tires are always the first thing I check. I am using manual with clutch, but the back end is breaking out way after I’ve downshifted, so I’m pretty sure it’s not that I’m missing the rev match. It basically as I’m turning in or mid-corner if I brake that I lose the rear wheels.
I ended up switching to the Solstice GXP. Front engine ended up being a little more predictable for me. I still applied some of the tips given to me here, so thanks a lot guys!
Other than raising caster and camber, everything else is correct. You should be aware that each setting has it’s own purpose. So while moving the brake bias to the front is a potential fix, it’s not if you already brake in a straight line or the brake bias is getting too far from neutral (50%).
Raising rear differential is always the first option you should change. Rule of thumb from adjusting the base tune, move rear diff. decel to be 10% lower the rear diff. accel. From there if you need to raise your decel then do so by 1% each time. Don’t let it get higher then your diff. accel. Getting there means it’s not the issue.
The next option would be raising rear rebound. This should also be moved .1 points at a time unless the situation is dire then move .5 points at a time and then dial it in when you get the results you want.
You could always raise rear aero if you haven’t maxed it already.
I’m always here to explain more and offer more advice. Just PM me or reply here.
Raising caster can actually make it worse in some cases, increasing the rear camber can help in corner entry and mid corner depending on how low it is. You never want the camber to be positive in any point of a corner. I agree with braking. Usually I test that at the test track airfield. You need to make the car as rear biased on the brakes as possible until it begins to squirrel. Raising the rear rebound can work, so can raising the rear ARBS. Diff is the best fix however.
Very good advice, I found this the key to taming the off throttle oversteer on the GT2 RS and GT3 RS. I have shared some tunes of those with 68/58 diff if anyone wants to try the results.
The problem sounds like too much weight transfer from the rear to the front, especially in the case of cars that brake in front of you mid-corner. Sometimes, increasing front bump will slow that process down, as will the increase of rear rebound. Increasing rear rebound would be more desirable, as you never like to decrease grip at the end that DOESN’T have the problem. Increasing the rear rebound will help keep that weight over the rear tires better, for hopefully more traction at that end of the car.