Maybe I’m looking in the wrong spot, but I need some help understanding my wheel settings.
I’m using a Thrustmaster SF1000 with the TS-XW Wheel Base.
I have no issues with the actual wheel or base, but in game, I reset the wheel inputs to default because I couldn’t find anything to suit my handling style.
On using the default settings I feel like I have to turn the wheel significantly to get the car to rotate in. I don’t know if there’s a way to decrease that feeling or what the setting is for that. I feel like it’s a bit much on stiffness, the force feedback probably has an effect on that, but I like the setting for it like it is. It’s more the wheel rotation that I feel is too stiff and I’m not getting the rotation I want.
Adjust the turning sensitivity in the wheel settings, start off at 55 and increase it by 2 or so until you find a sweet spot. I personally use 900 rotation,55 sensitivity with a Fanatec CSW 2.5
These work best for a wheel rotation of 85% which is around 900°.
It feels best for A700 to S800, if you drive R900 GT3, GT2 and LMDH, I’d suggest 75% wheel rotation.
The Vibration Scale is completely subjective, you can turn it of for realism, but it can give you some information when it comes to tire slip. It’s useful for trail braking.
If you drive on Nordschleife you should lower the FFB Scale down by 5 to avoid clipping. Don’t go above 130!!! And don’t increase the FFB in the fine tuning, you can only decrease it.
Steering Self Alignment is quite confusing. You can play with it a bit but I didn’t find it helpful and suggest you to change the other setting before this if something bugs you.
Mechanical Trail Scale is basically how much under steer you want to feel, if you want a stronger under steer feeling when the cars’ front tires slip, then lower this value.
Pneumatic Trail Scale is the same but with over steer, if you want a stronger feeling when the cars’ rear tires are slipping then increase this value. This can be helpful for drifting.
Road Feel Scale is subjective, I wouldn’t increase this too much as the TS-XW is belt driven and this setting feels best on direct drive wheel bases. This setting doesn’t give you more information about track surface it’s just random noise for more realism, so you could turn it off if you just care about lap time.
Load Sensitivity makes the car feel heavy, you could increase this in heavier cars, like SUVs for more realism, but it won’t feel great.
Wheel Damping Scale, Center Spring Scale, Dynamic Damper Behavior are helpful for cheaper wheelbases, but the TS-XW has around 6 NM force which is enough for realistic settings, so you can turn those settings of.
Steering Sensitivity and Steering Linearity should be at 50 no matter what. Those settings just make everything confusing and aren’t realistic anyways.
I’d suggest to always try to change steering rotation first before anything else, as this is the most powerful setting. The TS-XW has 1080° steering rotation at 100%, I’d suggest using 750° for beginners and up to 900° for people who want realism. Anything between 70% and 85% feels good.
900° = 83%
750° = 70%
TLDR:
If you have over/under steering issues, then change the Mechanical Trail Scale and Pneumatic Trail Scale.
If you have steering angle issues or if the car feels unresponsive (eg. LMDH cars) go into the fine tune menu and lower the steering rotation down to 75% or lower.
The rest can either be changed after personal preference or turned off as it’s not needed.
You have pneumatic and mechanical backwards. Mechanical tells you what the rear end is doing and it’s probably the most important steering for controlling the car. It’s how your drift and catch slides, and most important for racing, controlling slip angle while trail braking and power steering. Pneumatic is useful for understeer, because the wheel goes light on traction loss, but can cause a loss of feel on oversteer, so you want to keep it low. Steering alignment is just the combination of mechanical and pneumatic together.
Load sensitivity is the suspension, so it can make the wheel lighter over crests and heavier when the suspension is compressed. Can be useful, but you only need enough to get the information. Too much can overwhelm steering alignment or cause clipping. Wheel damping can be helpful to slow wheel rotation down in small amounts. Vibration is helpful because it happens anytime the wheels slipping, so for determining brake locking, on power tire spin, and at the edge of traction while cornering. Don’t need much though.
360 or 540 felt good to me for a lot of cars, nice fast steering response, but I noticed I was struggling with some others being too twitchy, hard to save slides, etc.
I changed a back to the default (1080) after reading some advice and now am used to it - as well as working on my driving technique - I’m much happier. I believe the steering lock of each car is fixed in game e.g. even if I have the default 1080 set in hardware I won’t need to use that much rotation to get full lock when driving a formula car for example. But I can change the in-game steering sensitivity and/or steering lock scale if I wan’t the steering more (or less) responsive.
We recommend that you always start with default settings in the game and your wheel driver before you start the game, including overall force feedback gain and rotation angle. On the PC you can run 540 degrees from software, but the steering lock in game remains unchanged, so your ratio would differ from the default. You can adjust this in the game’s Steering Sensitivity slider in the Advanced Wheel Settings section below. This is a commonly misunderstood setting, so it’s important to give this a read.
STEERING SENSITIVITY
This adjusts the ratio of your steering wheel’s degree of rotation (DOR) to the car’s front wheels actual degree of steering rotation with a soft lock. Along with Force Feedback Scale, this is one of the most commonly misunderstood advanced settings.
A point of confusion among wheel users is the fact that the driver’s hand animations in cockpit view don’t turn the steering wheel more than 90 degrees in either direction. This does not represent the actual in game steering wheel rotation, just as the graphical tire steering lock angle is not a 100 percent representation of the actual physics steering lock. This is one of the reasons a dashboard camera view has been added to game camera views.
Altering the sensitivity completely alters the input/output map of the steering, effectively changing the steering ratio of the car. The most common issue is when a user changes the steering wheel rotation degree from the software or hardware in combination with the game, which can result in erratic car steering behavior. Steering ratio defines the ratio between the steering wheel rotation and the turn of the wheels. In other words, how many degrees of steering wheel turn are required to turn the car’s wheels by 1 degree. A steering ratio for a normal passenger car could for example 13:1, which means that 13 degrees of steering rotation are required to turn the wheels by 1 degree.
On PC the wheel driver controls the steering wheel rotation (180 up to 1080 depending on the wheel hardware), but in-game and in real life the steering lock is fixed on every car and is different on every car. The steering sensitivity scales the steering input and alters how much the wheels are turned for a certain steering wheel rotation. If you make the sensitivity higher, you make the steering more responsive because the steering ratio decreased. If you set the sensitivity lower the steering ratio increases therefore the steering is less responsive.
I’m super late to this response, but I’ll have to give it a go, I guess what I don’t like about some of the settings I’ve tried is the lack of force when turning the wheel. Like there’s nothing on the initial rotation and then the force hits, It just feels weird to me, so I like having the damping where I can feel the force right away.
Anyone using a SF1000 wheel?
I guess it’s all about experimenting with it, I’m not very good at figuring out what is working better than others.
Hopefully you’ve found something by now? I don’t have your wheel but when I first got my g923 I kept trying to tune it my self and come back next day cars handle terrible always spinning out, eventually I just hit default and only tweaked a few things. Now it don’t matter what I drive crappiest car in the game to a f1 the wheel always feels the same. But yet I feel how each car is different, ex light car to a heavy car, stock suspension to full race. Take a break for months and come back and not miss a beat. If you wana try my setup I’ll share my settings maybe they can work for you?
I leave the wheel settings alone, in the tune settings menu where you adjust your gears and springs ect. That last tab to the right I leave it alone. Those of you wondering why no vibration the g923 still vibrates, with it turned on it just vibrates excessively and if you own one you know it sounds worse than the neighbors lawnmower. And trying to race whenever and not wake up the whole house is a chore alone .
So far this feels pretty good to me for any car any track, wether I’m racing pops here at home w stock or souped up muscle cars or running league races w buddies online. It’s felt competitive to me. If you don’t like it well hey Atleast you tried. Hope you find something buddy. Good luck
