Most cars lock up at 80 percent so it is ideal to get between 75% - 78% out of your brakes. Howerver, some really fast drivers use no more than 69% according to the telemtry and yet they manage to stay light years ahead of me. Perhaps they can steer the car better or use a different camera view to their benefit?
You’re right about the 80% limit. I’ve got my Elite Controller set up so that I am just under that limit whenever I brake; rarely lock up because of it. I can drive fine without this (and do in cars where the brakes feel soft) but I like not having to think about that when approaching a corner.
One thing to note is that telemetry is recording the controller input and not the in-game grip limit of the brakes. A driver may have their tuned pressure set above 100% so that when they brake at 69% it feels like 80% on a “normal” car.
Also, there are many factors for why a driver may be pulling away from you. Better braking technique is one, but line choice and throttle control are also important.
100%! The first couple weeks I hated the new system but the tires are the only thing you cant compromise on. Though I’m sure I can compete on stock tires, it makes you have to choose street or race. Everything else I set to stock, then go back and find a proper setup. Race weight and tires is a great way to start on a build
I always used to build like that but unbeatable AI in FM7 builds missile cars so I tend to find you need a more balanced/slightly power biased build. To that end I tend to fit all the adjustables to the suspension and the required tyres with perhaps the next width along with a cage and see where I sit against the cap before adding some power…and race brakes. Then if I have PI left I start with wider tyres and lightening.
In general I find being able to carry maybe 5 mph more in a corner is not worth as much as 20mph at the end of a straight. Although I don’t build true missile cars, I only put on enough tyre and weight upgrades to get the job done.
I dont drive with any of the assists on. I couldnt follow the gas or the brake line if I tried. I just figure it out through trial and error. I can brake late or gas it through areas where others tend to brake.
I also have noticed recently regarding hp-to-weight ratio, it might be better to keep on the weight and add power. Full race brakes, suspension, if I need the cage to stay in the PI I range I will. Half the time I dont add the Forza body upgrades, I can tune the downforce without it. Keeps my acceleration numbers high. Like you said, top speed doesnt mean much if you can reach it on the track
When I rev match, although it’s worked wonders for me, I still get the slight slide some of the time, almost always exclusively while turning. Why is this?
Should I slightly tap the accel? Should I slam my foot on the pedal 100% for a split second? Should I rev right before the downshift to let the rpms catch up? Something else?
Is this something that’s exclusive to a wheel? I’m on a pad and never spin out braking in a straight line whether I downshift or not. I’m using SIM steering, 0/100 deads, all assists off.
To clarify, I’m using an XBox 360 controller on PC.
Normal Steering
ABS Off
Clutch Manual
TCS / Stability off
Perhaps you’re just a better player than me. =P
Or maybe you’re not using the “right” cars. This seems to only ever happen to me on RWD cars with tons of torque.
02 Corvette, though I’ve gotten 100% used to this one, A class. 08 Lambo Reventon, S class, this is the one that I’m having trouble with at the moment. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still getting pretty decent lap times, I just want 100% control of the car at all times and I seem to only have about 90-95% atm.
There’s a trend with it. It happens when I’m coming up on the end of a real long straight going 180mph+ into a wide, long turn.
I actually don’t even know if shifting is the problem at all but rather my control of the joystick. When I brake, make the slight turn, and downshift I’ll slide a bit most of the time and I can’t really put my finger on what’s happening or how to adjust for it.
It sound most Lilley to be loft off oversteer to me, you need to balance your throttle input through the turn because if you fully loft off the engine brake goes straight the the loaded rear wheels and can make them loose grip and start to slide, you need to keep a small amount of throttle applied to maintain speed through the corner and keep the car balanced.
https://youtu.be/ovV1ppZspLw if you skip to about the 2:00 mark you can see a good demonstration of what I’m talking about and then see how much of a difference that small amount of throttle input can make
Rev matching is hugely advantageous but as in real life different corners can benefit from different techniques.
Block changing is an option, where instead of going 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd you can go 6th, 4th, 2nd. It’s less downchanges and provided you’re careful it can aid stability.
Another way is if you have a car which brakes well enough not to require the engine braking so much you can leave your down changes until your revs are low enough that it won’t disturb the balance of the car, but make sure you get them done before turn in. I find this is great on older racing cars, like Can-Am and 60’s F1.
Try different things and different setups too. The way I gear my cars is with 1st roughly as long as the original 2nd, and then stack the gears up nice and tight together, with each gear being slightly shorter than the last if that makes sense. It aids deceleration in that each down change gives you less difference in engine speed. Seat time is king, and trying new techniques and new setups is the best way to find what works for you.