Hey guys! Im in need of a tune for a league im in on forza 7. Im driving the Ferrari 458 Italia gtlm R841. It needs to have 494hp. Restrictor, brakes, and drive line. I love to be able to move around traffic and have a good handling car. I would like a handling tune for the smaller tracks, a mid tune for the medium tracks. And a speed tune for lemans. If anyone could help that would be great. Im trying to tune it myself but not having much luck. Lol thanks peeps!
I don’t think anyone here is going to want to do that for you, maybe someone will come up but I doubt it. I can, however, help with all your questions with tuning. If you are a new tuner this is my advice for starting a tune. Always go for every race upgrade that unlocks tuning in the tune setup menu, such as race brakes and race transmission (however race tranny can be left out if you need the PI space for other upgrades). Before going to a racetrack. I do a pre-tune to get everything to a useful level, like setting camber for the rear tires and dropping tire pressure. I’ve gone over that for you below.
So, here is my advice on how to do each section of tune setup (after upgrades):
Tire Pressure: bring to 28 PSI for front and rear. Tire grip reaches a peak at 32-33 PSI and after a couple of laps the tires will have warmed up to this number. Pretty much every car you tune will have the tire pressure set to this PSI and only the occasional car will need something else.
Transmission: I always go for what makes the car the fastest 0-60 and -100 mph and do the tune before tuning the brakes (I’ll get to why in a second). To achieve the best acceleration times the engine must be in its power band at the start of every gear shift. If you are tuning a car for a specific track then you should tune the gears to be the right ratio for the tracks’ corners because you want to be in the power band as you are exiting every corner. You’ll lose time if you have to shift when you should be laying on the gas so make sure each gear is tall or short enough to accommodate this. The ratios you use also affect braking distance so you will need to adjust brake pressure afterward and possibly balance after tuning the gears so the car has maximum brake power.
Alignment: pretty easy to tune, camber takes but a few minutes and a few turns to get right and then it’s set. Spring rates, ride height, and anti-roll bar settings affect this so keep that in mind after drastically changing any of those if you’ve tuned camber already. Every car should have no more than -3 degrees of camber and the front should have more than the rear (that may change depending on the car you are tuning). I use toe only when necessary and never go beyond +/- .3 and try to keep it as minimal as possible for one reason: it will make the car unstable especially during heavy braking zones, more so if it has any front toe. Toe to me is something to be used after I have tuned anti-roll bars, spring rates, and damping resistance to take care of oversteer and/or understeer that is still present. Caster is much like what master volume is in the audio setting menu. To see how it works, take your car to a racetrack and while not moving, turn the wheel all the way to the left and check telemetry to see how much camber the front tires have. Then go to tune setup and change caster and then go back to telemetry and see how much the new caster setting affected the front tire camber when the wheel is turned all the way to the left. Caster only affects camber when the wheel is turned so you should have a large amount of caster so that when you are going down the straightaway, the tires have the most grip and straight-line speed.
Anti-roll Bars: again pretty straightforward, they control understeer and oversteer. I always change the settings during the pre-tune to about 12-15 rear and 20-22 front but the car I am always driving is a FR V8 muscle car so that will most definitely be different for your mid-engine, fully independent supercar. Lower the roll bar, and you will decrease how fast weight is transferred from one side to the other. This will decrease oversteer for the rear roll bar and understeer for the fronts. You can also increase the front roll bar to increase grip at the rear and vice versa. Check the Forza 5 forum link below to get more info on this.
Springs: during the pre-tune, I leave these alone to be what the game calculates they should be. Also, during the pre-tune, I drop the ride height to be as low as possible. If you are tuning a car where the low is under 4 inches, then you may want to keep it at 4 inches because that is very low and the car may ground itself during long or quick chicanes, bumps (like rumble strips) and braking zones. You should always, especially for a supercar, have the front ride height be lower than the rears. This will reduce lift and increase grip and top end speed since less downforce is required. During the tuning process, you should try to get the offset shown in telemetry to be no more than .8, no less than .7, and right at .75, if that is what will make the car handle the best. As for what adjusting the spring rates does, stiffer will make the car respond faster and softer will make it respond slower. You should aim for what the car is driving like but keep it in the range I described above. If it is still having problems, adjust the roll bars. Spring rates control how much weight is transferred down into the spring and damping controls how fast that spring compresses and rebounds.
Damping: this, as well as springs, Is what I find to be where the most time spent tuning goes, maybe anti-roll bars too. Bump (also called compression) controls how fast the spring will compress. Rebound dictates the opposite which is how fast the spring will release the potential energy stored in the spring while compressed. You should have a suspension that will be taught and firm so it responds well, especially in esses, but not too stiff. If bump is set too stiff, then the car will have oversteer when you apply throttle and understeer when going into a corner. Think of having no suspension in a car when the bump damping is too stiff. Everything is transmitted directly to the frame and the whole car will move when there is a change in the road surface. Keep in mind tuning spring rates and damping stiffness that a suspensions’ job is to keep the wheel in contact with the ground as often and as much as possible. You don’t want the wheels to lift off the ground and you can change things in tune setup to affect that. When rebound stiffness is too much the car will often lift off while cornering because the weight on the inside wheel will be pushed to the other side, leaving nothing keeping the inside wheel on the ground and then the car will either spin or understeer. An important note to remember is that rebound stiffness will always need to be stiffer than bump. This is because of the energy that is put into the spring during the compression phase will be lesser than the energy released during the rebound phase. If the racing line on the track you are racing on involves driving over the rumble strip and the car becomes extremely unstable doing so, check the dampers. More than likely they are too stiff. If anything is happening very quickly to your car, it is most likely caused by damping being too soft. If the car has lots of body roll then increase bump or spring rate stiffness. If the outside edge holds weight for too long, increase rebound.
Aero: I think this doesn’t need much explaining, it removes lift caused by a low-pressure zone underneath the car and adds grip at higher speeds. It’s pretty much invisible weight that we can use to gain all the things that weight brings and skip on all of its disadvantages. To fix a wheel that is lifting off the ground while going through a high-speed corner you can increase downforce. That’s about all else there is to know about it, everything else is common knowledge.
Brake: remember, this should be tuned during the pre-tune after you have set the gears. Balance correlates to how much FWD your car has. With anything over 50% the balance should be brought rearward, and vice versa. If it is the magic 50%, then it’s probably good with 50% balance. I always bring pressure to 75% then adjust to the shortest braking distance, sometimes being up to 82%. If you are experiencing brake fade then the pressure is too much because its causing heat to build up which causes brakes to lose efficiency. You should experiment with what works best for your Ferrari because I always drive the same type of car so my experience here won’t directly transfer over to your car. A roll cage may help a lot as it reduces forward weight transfer. It also may not if the car has a good structure already.
Differential: rear should always be the difference to this equation: |FWD - 1| = x. For example, |.52-1|= .48, so 48% rear lock. The front is typically around 70%. To fine-tune this, the difference in inside and outside wheel speed should always be 5 mph while going through a corner. I don’t spend too much time here as that’s about it. It’s the quickest thing to tune behind tire pressure.
And here are some quick tips to conquering oversteer:
Reduce rear spring stiffness or increase front
Reduce rear roll bar or increase front
Reduce bump stiffness (instantaneous oversteer)
Decrease rear toe
Decrease rear camber (unlikely)
and understeer:
Reduce FWD
Reduce front spring rate
Decrease front bump resistance
Soften front roll bar
Increase front toe
Here are some links to answer any more questions you have on tuning:
http://www.rapid-racer.com/ I’ve spent a lot of time reading here. There is a ton of knowledge and the author knows a ton and goes into great detail.
https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst221_Tuning-Guide.aspx Scroll down to the second post which is by BIG WORM 80. This guide is extremely useful for on the fly adjustments like between races.
https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/25b50bb4-4372-47d8-8264-d4c52cc3e66d/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_A2-Brake-Bias-Performance_8-2018_1.pdf This article covers braking physics very well. Should be very insightful.
ForzaTune Pro on the App Store or https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.flamefrontstudios.forzatune7&utm_source=forzatune-website These are links to the Forzatune 7 calculator. I think its cooler and better to do the stuff myself but I understand that this isn’t everyone’s bowl of fun so I’ll link them for you to try out if you don’t wanna do this yourself (I urge you to at least know the basics of tuning so you know what to do to correct problems that will arise while driving).
http://fm7calc.nedge2k.com/ Another calculator made by a player of forza 7. This one is free unlike Forzatune 7, check out the thread on the forum for more info.