Forza 5 Telemetry explained

I’ve had a look through the forums to see if i could find a post explaining the telemetry and how to read it in forza 5 but i cant seem to find anything,i have also tried to google it but i get sites for forza 4 only,so im asking if anyone knows of a site post or a website i could go to for the telemetry information.

Much obliged.

Telemetry can help you get your car setup such as camber, tire pressure, gear ratios etc. It used to be useful for instance to compare and see what top speed your rivals are hitting on a long strait, then you can determine if your car might need more horsepower over handling, or maybe you need to get a better exit on the last corner before the strait. You can see what the tire contact patch in corners and adjust the camber for optimal grip for instance.

There’s plenty of useful things in there if you have time to study it, but in it’s current state it’s useless as you can’t see it in replays. To me you can’t really use it effectively with out it working in replays.
I mean how can you see camber changes in a hairpin when your driving, is your car bottoming out thru eua rouge, can’t watch telemetry thru that corner while driving? I seems telemetry is another feature left unfinished in this game.

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Yeah totally agree that forza devs dropped the ball when they didnt include telemetry in replays,makes it alot harder to study and adjust,its not impossible but with out replay telemetry its alot more awkward.

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Unfortunately, this could be due to fudging with Drivatar physics. I already confirmed that they cannot take mechanical damage, presumably because that would require more calculating, and I’m afraid Turn 10 weren’t able to optimize everything for a final build that would run efficiently on One. If this was the case with AI damage, there may be fudging in other areas to reduce work load on the game engine. Telemetry could highlight these things; most obviously the invincibility of rival cars.

Not to mention all of telemetry information disappears when paused.

Only way I have found is to DVR then review later. It is actually pretty good but it means you have to drive without any Tach/Speedo and you can only have 1 telemetry screen at a time.

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I wanted to paste this into my previous reply, but on my tablet this doesn’t work right on this board.

Anyway… I never rely on the tachometer or speedometer. I just gauge speed by how fast it seems I’m going and I listen to engine revs for my gear changes.

General:
All self explanatory here. How much power being produced, how much throttle/brake/clutch being applied. Steering angle etc.

Friction:
How much friction is being produced on each corner (ie; grip). The line that sticks out from the centre of the wheel shows the angle of friction, and the percentage is how close to peak grip you are. If you go over 100% that means the tyre has lost grip and is sliding.

Suspension:
How much the springs are compressing and decompressing. Too much spring travel can make the car unstable and slow to respond. Too little means the car is too stiff and will break traction easier. Offset is the distance between the centre line of the wheel and the hub. Basically the more offset the more the tyre is moving side to side. To be honest this doesn’t really have much effect in game.

Body Acceleration:
Basically the g-force being produced. The more g-force produced under acceleration means the quicker the car can gain speed. More under braking (without locking up) means the car can stop quicker and in a shorter distance. Side to side g-force (without sliding) increases as the car can turn at greater speeds. Basically more is better under all controlled driving instances.

Tyres:
This is where it gets really important for tuning. You want tires to reach around 33-35 PSI after 2-3 laps. Temps are not so important on this page, around 230 is normal. Speed - not really that useful, yes the outside wheel will go faster round a corner as it has more distance to travel. Camber - ideally you want the tire that is bearing most load to have the biggest contact patch possible which would be 0 degrees of camber (in reality a little camber is good). Worm’s tuning guide is a good read for applying what you observe here.

Heat:
The temperature across the width of each tire. If you are going round a corner and the inside is much hotter you have too much camber (inwards leaning of the wheel). If the outside gets a lot hotter then not enough camber (the wheel is leaning outwards).

Damage:
0% across the board please! Engine and gearbox damage (if you haven’t had a crash) normally indicates you are shifting wrong and rev banging.

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From my experience, since ALL cars show offset from 0.00 to 1.00, I am interpreting OFFSET = % spring compression.

When the car is not moving at all, all 4 suspension shows 0.50 = springs are 50% compressed.

When spring is fully compressed, the value reads 1.00.

Therefore, if the bars move all the way from 0.00 to 1.00, the spring rates are too low. If the bars are hardly moving, the suspension set-up is too hard.

I would think movement from 0.25~0.75 would be the norm.

Offset is related to compression in that when the spring compresses and the wheel moves into the arch the distance from the wheel centre line to hub will increase. From what you have said though I think you may be under the impression offset is measured on the vertical plane but it is actually the measurement on the horizontal plane. The offset figure is not a direct reflection of compression.

To be honest I have found even on a well tuned car it will go from 0 to 100, so I tend to ignore it. We can’t directly adjust offset in Forza anyway, so the figures it shows are pretty useless. Like turbo boost pressures - nice to know, but you can’t change it…