Fanatec CSL Elite settings?

[Elit3_Nick]

I know it’s soon since the FFB update, but I’m curious if anyone has found good settings for the Fanatec CSL Elite, I’ll need game and wheel settings.

[hoosierider1]

Not sure if you’ve gotten anywhere, but I just updated the firmware on my CSL Elite to version 475, which reset everything in the wheel to default settings. I’ve left the in game settings at the default, too, and it’s feeling pretty drivable. It’s a bit light for my taste, but I have yet to attempt to adjust anything, literally. I’m three races in, so I’m going to run some additional types of cars and some favorite tracks to get more of a feel for it, but I’d suggest making sure the wheel’s firmware is updated.

[XPR_Dartman_Dan]

I have the original V2 Clubsport wheel base…bought the base when the Xbox One came out. When the wheel base first came out there was some kind of a license issue and Fanatec wheels were not combatable with the Xbox for a year after launch of the Xbox One. Fanatec only worked on PC and PlayStation for that year. The V2 base came out and I bought it as I had a returning customer discount so saved some cash but it had only the base and no wheel. I had to wait a year for Fanarec and Xbox to reach a solution. Fanatec made the universal hub for Xbox a year later and I bought one. That was the one and only time I have ever updated my firmware for that base. I am on firmware 110 now and my wheel is very much to my liking hence the reason I have not updated it to a newer firmware. If it’s not broke…don’t fix it method😃 Most of the firmware update and new settings that were added were for PC users anyway so most of the updates did not do much, if anything for me as I only play on Xbox. I have had some real battles getting it to update the firmware in the past and really don’t want to go through that again. I have had 3 Fanatec wheels over the years and I struggled with all of them updating the firmware, got it to load in the end but not a very smooth process for me.
Once I got this wheel to work as I wanted I have pretty much left the wheel settings alone and only adjust my in game settings to get the feel I am looking for. All my Forza games have the same wheel settings but the in game settings are all way different to match what version of FFB they have in the game. It seems every game they make whether Horizon or Motorsports, Forza is updating some components of the FFB every time they release a new game, and now even with the older games but I like that! It keeps the game new for me. I also Really like this new FFB system alot! This is the best ( realistic) that I have felt a Forza game feel…ever!

Thanks all at Turn 10 that made this game so good!!!

[booster006]

Hi,

I have a fanatec csl v2. 5 for my xbox one and it seems that after the update my fanatec shifters dont work anymore??

The peddels at the wheel work fine but he doesn’t recognize my H pattern shifter anymore?

Has anyone else have the same problem?

It are still the plastic shifters, not the clubman one…

Kind regards
Jasper

[hoosierider1]

Not sure if you updated, but when I updated my firmware last night, it was saying I would have to recalibrate the shifter. I don’t have one, so it didn’t apply, but that might be something to look into if you updated the wheel as well.

[Mr_Pinstripes]

Here’s what I came up with after a bit of testing, and my reasoning for setting them as I did:

Wheel:

Sen: 108

• This defaults to Auto. It’s probably fine to leave it there, but I changed it just to make sure. The setting is in (degrees of rotation)/10, so “108” is 1080 degrees.
  FF: 100
• This also defaults to Auto, but in this case “auto” really means “so weak you may as well use a controller”. Make sure it’s at 100 or nothing you do in game will matter.
  Sho: 70
• Shock is a lot higher than I had it set before the update. The new vibration feedback is much more subtle, so turning it up doesn’t result in a constant “joy buzzer from hell” sound from your wheel anymore.
  Lin: Off
  Dea: Off
• If you need to have a center dead zone, this setting works much better than the in-game option.
  Dri: Off
  BrF: 45
• Brake Force is something you’ll likely have to mess with on your own to find what works for your setup, but I had to turn mine down to keep my brakes from being an on/off switch.

===

In-Game:

Steering/Clutch/Handbrake should be set according to your personal preference/setup needs. Mine are at 0/100, 3/97, and whatever default is (I don’t have a handbrake), respectively.

Accel Inside: 0
Accel Outside: 52

• I keep my Accel Outside as low as I can stand to allow me to blip the throttle during downshifts. I’d much prefer a linearity setting, but we don’t have one. If you don’t rev match your downshifts (or if your pedals are way different than mine), you may not need it this low.

Decel Inside: 3
Decel Outside: 100

• Decel Outside changed a lot. I had it set around 65 before the update, but even with the BrF setting on the wheel turned down it was still too sensitive. Decel Inside is strictly to keep fluctuations in the brake pedal sensor from applying the brakes. Set Inside as low as possible.

Now, on to the main FFB settings:

Vibration Scale: 25

• Adds vibration from surface texture (rumble strips, brick/cobblestone/grates, etc.) and tire scrub. Much more useful than it was pre-update, but gets overpowering quickly.

Force Feedback Scale: 125

• Overall strength for all FFB effects, including Vibration. Great way to adjust the amount of force once you’re happy with the balance of the other settings.

Aligning Torque: 100
Mechanical Trail: 75
Pneumatic Trail: 150

• These are the main components of what I’d consider “the force feedback”. Aligning Torque is the overall strength, while Mechanical and Pneumatic control the balance between those two forces. Think of Mechanical as “suspension feedback” and Pneumatic as “tire feedback”. I found Pneumatic to be “lost in the mix” a lot easier, hence why I have it much stronger than Mechanical.

Road Feel: 25

• This functions almost as a second Vibration setting, and is the main contributor to the “bad ball joint” shaking on straights. Not much useful feedback, but it does make the roads feel less like glass.

Wheel Damper: 0
Wheel Center Spring: 0

• I found both of these settings to feel really unnatural. I played with both to try to eliminate the shaking on straights, but neither seemed to help much.

===

If you want to test what each setting does individually, set both FFB Scale and Aligning Torque to 100 and leave them there for the duration of your testing. Next, set Vibration, Mechanical and Pneumatic Trail, Road Feel, Wheel Damper, and Wheel Center Spring to 0 and head out to Rio National. That track has a bunch of easy-to-identify “surface zones” that’ll give you a good idea of what each setting actually does. Drive the car with them at 0 for a lap (it’ll feel really weird), then adjust one of them to 200 and go for another lap. Set that one back to 0, set a different one to 200, and do another. Repeat until you’ve tried all the settings. You’ll figure out pretty quick what they’re all doing.

[TheRisingTide]

@Mr_Pinstripes

Here’s what I came up with after a bit of testing, and my reasoning for setting them as I did:

Wheel:

Sen: 108

• This defaults to Auto. It’s probably fine to leave it there, but I changed it just to make sure. The setting is in (degrees of rotation)/10, so “108” is 1080 degrees.
  FF: 100
• This also defaults to Auto, but in this case “auto” really means “so weak you may as well use a controller”. Make sure it’s at 100 or nothing you do in game will matter.
  Sho: 70
• Shock is a lot higher than I had it set before the update. The new vibration feedback is much more subtle, so turning it up doesn’t result in a constant “joy buzzer from hell” sound from your wheel anymore.
  Lin: Off
  Dea: Off
• If you need to have a center dead zone, this setting works much better than the in-game option.
  Dri: Off
  BrF: 45
• Brake Force is something you’ll likely have to mess with on your own to find what works for your setup, but I had to turn mine down to keep my brakes from being an on/off switch.

===

In-Game:

Steering/Clutch/Handbrake should be set according to your personal preference/setup needs. Mine are at 0/100, 3/97, and whatever default is (I don’t have a handbrake), respectively.

Accel Inside: 0
Accel Outside: 52

• I keep my Accel Outside as low as I can stand to allow me to blip the throttle during downshifts. I’d much prefer a linearity setting, but we don’t have one. If you don’t rev match your downshifts (or if your pedals are way different than mine), you may not need it this low.

Decel Inside: 3
Decel Outside: 100

• Decel Outside changed a lot. I had it set around 65 before the update, but even with the BrF setting on the wheel turned down it was still too sensitive. Decel Inside is strictly to keep fluctuations in the brake pedal sensor from applying the brakes. Set Inside as low as possible.

Now, on to the main FFB settings:

Vibration Scale: 25

• Adds vibration from surface texture (rumble strips, brick/cobblestone/grates, etc.) and tire scrub. Much more useful than it was pre-update, but gets overpowering quickly.

Force Feedback Scale: 125

• Overall strength for all FFB effects, including Vibration. Great way to adjust the amount of force once you’re happy with the balance of the other settings.

Aligning Torque: 100
Mechanical Trail: 75
Pneumatic Trail: 150

• These are the main components of what I’d consider “the force feedback”. Aligning Torque is the overall strength, while Mechanical and Pneumatic control the balance between those two forces. Think of Mechanical as “suspension feedback” and Pneumatic as “tire feedback”. I found Pneumatic to be “lost in the mix” a lot easier, hence why I have it much stronger than Mechanical.

Road Feel: 25

• This functions almost as a second Vibration setting, and is the main contributor to the “bad ball joint” shaking on straights. Not much useful feedback, but it does make the roads feel less like glass.

Wheel Damper: 0
Wheel Center Spring: 0

• I found both of these settings to feel really unnatural. I played with both to try to eliminate the shaking on straights, but neither seemed to help much.

===

If you want to test what each setting does individually, set both FFB Scale and Aligning Torque to 100 and leave them there for the duration of your testing. Next, set Vibration, Mechanical and Pneumatic Trail, Road Feel, Wheel Damper, and Wheel Center Spring to 0 and head out to Rio National. That track has a bunch of easy-to-identify “surface zones” that’ll give you a good idea of what each setting actually does. Drive the car with them at 0 for a lap (it’ll feel really weird), then adjust one of them to 200 and go for another lap. Set that one back to 0, set a different one to 200, and do another. Repeat until you’ve tried all the settings. You’ll figure out pretty quick what they’re all doing.

Finally after two months of hating FF in this game, these settings have put me into the right place. A few minor tweaks but out of the dozen set ups I’ve tried this one feels the best. The remainder of my complaints are probably related to the game itself. Thanks for posting these settings.

[Elit3_Nick]

@Mr_Pinstripes

Here’s what I came up with after a bit of testing, and my reasoning for setting them as I did:

Wheel:

Sen: 108

• This defaults to Auto. It’s probably fine to leave it there, but I changed it just to make sure. The setting is in (degrees of rotation)/10, so “108” is 1080 degrees.
  FF: 100
• This also defaults to Auto, but in this case “auto” really means “so weak you may as well use a controller”. Make sure it’s at 100 or nothing you do in game will matter.
  Sho: 70
• Shock is a lot higher than I had it set before the update. The new vibration feedback is much more subtle, so turning it up doesn’t result in a constant “joy buzzer from hell” sound from your wheel anymore.
  Lin: Off
  Dea: Off
• If you need to have a center dead zone, this setting works much better than the in-game option.
  Dri: Off
  BrF: 45
• Brake Force is something you’ll likely have to mess with on your own to find what works for your setup, but I had to turn mine down to keep my brakes from being an on/off switch.

===

In-Game:

Steering/Clutch/Handbrake should be set according to your personal preference/setup needs. Mine are at 0/100, 3/97, and whatever default is (I don’t have a handbrake), respectively.

Accel Inside: 0
Accel Outside: 52

• I keep my Accel Outside as low as I can stand to allow me to blip the throttle during downshifts. I’d much prefer a linearity setting, but we don’t have one. If you don’t rev match your downshifts (or if your pedals are way different than mine), you may not need it this low.

Decel Inside: 3
Decel Outside: 100

• Decel Outside changed a lot. I had it set around 65 before the update, but even with the BrF setting on the wheel turned down it was still too sensitive. Decel Inside is strictly to keep fluctuations in the brake pedal sensor from applying the brakes. Set Inside as low as possible.

Now, on to the main FFB settings:

Vibration Scale: 25

• Adds vibration from surface texture (rumble strips, brick/cobblestone/grates, etc.) and tire scrub. Much more useful than it was pre-update, but gets overpowering quickly.

Force Feedback Scale: 125

• Overall strength for all FFB effects, including Vibration. Great way to adjust the amount of force once you’re happy with the balance of the other settings.

Aligning Torque: 100
Mechanical Trail: 75
Pneumatic Trail: 150

• These are the main components of what I’d consider “the force feedback”. Aligning Torque is the overall strength, while Mechanical and Pneumatic control the balance between those two forces. Think of Mechanical as “suspension feedback” and Pneumatic as “tire feedback”. I found Pneumatic to be “lost in the mix” a lot easier, hence why I have it much stronger than Mechanical.

Road Feel: 25

• This functions almost as a second Vibration setting, and is the main contributor to the “bad ball joint” shaking on straights. Not much useful feedback, but it does make the roads feel less like glass.

Wheel Damper: 0
Wheel Center Spring: 0

• I found both of these settings to feel really unnatural. I played with both to try to eliminate the shaking on straights, but neither seemed to help much.

===

If you want to test what each setting does individually, set both FFB Scale and Aligning Torque to 100 and leave them there for the duration of your testing. Next, set Vibration, Mechanical and Pneumatic Trail, Road Feel, Wheel Damper, and Wheel Center Spring to 0 and head out to Rio National. That track has a bunch of easy-to-identify “surface zones” that’ll give you a good idea of what each setting actually does. Drive the car with them at 0 for a lap (it’ll feel really weird), then adjust one of them to 200 and go for another lap. Set that one back to 0, set a different one to 200, and do another. Repeat until you’ve tried all the settings. You’ll figure out pretty quick what they’re all doing.

Is your wheel the CSL Elite? I don’t have Lin, Dea or BrF, I have For, SPr, DPr, and FEI.

Edit: Your settings work wonderfully though, I can feel the loss of traction when I understeer and it just feels natural, thank you kindly good sir ^^

[Mr_Pinstripes]

@Elit3_Nick

Is your wheel the CSL Elite? … Your settings work wonderfully though, I can feel the loss of traction when I understeer and it just feels natural, thank you kindly good sir ^^

I thought it was, but apparently it’s a vanilla CSL P1. And you’re most welcome.

[Corsa]

Edit…
Dan is correct we should include the platform.

I’m on PC and after quite of bit a testing myself, I’ve found these settings best for me.

Wheel

SEN 900
FF 075
SHO off
ABS off
DR1 off
FOR 060
SPR 030
DPR off
FEI 000

Game

Vibration 40
FFB Scale 75
Aligning Torque 200
Mechanical Trail 120
Pneumatic Trail 80
Road Feel 75
Wheel Damper 5
Center Spring 0
Steering Sensitivity 100
Steering Linearity 45

Again these are MY settings, ffb is a very subjective and personal taste.

[XPR_Dartman_Dan]

These settings may feel different on a console versus a PC so it may not hurt to mention what type these are for.