Easy Point Set-ups

So I have been drifting in F6 since it came out and I rather enjoy it but I see a lot of people who can’t drift because their tuning on their vehicle is atrocious A lot of my friends and I use similar set-ups but all of them are under the same basis and principle. These set-ups are easy to use and can be applied to several different cars, trucks, and SUV’s. With the standard set up, you can turn your favorite car into a drift ready monster that you can have fun with friends or in a lobby.

So first off, pick a vehicle that you would like to drift. Don’t look at whether it’s a front wheel, rear wheel, or an all wheel because you can just simply switch it to a rear wheel drive vehicle. The only thing you need to make sure of is that it is a FRONT engine vehicle.

In the upgrade panel, change the vehicle to a rear wheeled vehicle if it isn’t already. Next, look at the engine upgrades. I always look for the best, non turbo engine. This is either a VVT V6 or a V8. Preferably, go with the racing V8 if it is available. If not, get the biggest V8 that is offered.

Next, look at the body options. Pick whatever you want but it is best to NOT use any of the Forza options as this can make your vehicle react differently. Next, go to the wheels and select what ever rim style you like. Most drifters will make their cars as light as possible, but realistically, 20-30 lbs won’t make too much of a difference. Next, change your wheel size to the maximum size, usually 19-21 depending on the size of this car. Next, upgrade the tire width to the maximum in the back, and one step down from the maximum in the front. On the tires themselves, buy the DRAG tires.

On the mods themselves, everything will be race EXCEPT for the roll cage. Stay away from the roll cage. Roll cages are bad. They will make your car too rigid and can give you bad results when trying to drift.

Once you have everything fitted, go straight to the test track. Here we can tune and fine tune while drifting the vehicle.

One car I found to be fun is a 97 Honda Civic. Using all of the above mods, I took the car to the Indy GP Classic track as it offers very nice drifting sections and can really test your vehicles drifting capabilities as in short and long range corners as well as having to switch directions at the correct time. When learning how to drift, you want to practice the entire first section in trying to drift the entire selection. If you’re looking for a total point average, I would shoot for around 22-24K in that section.

So when the coarse loads up, go ahead and go into your tuning section. This is the base tuning of a majority of my vehicles…

TIRES:
Front - 54 PSI
Back - 55 PSI

CAMBER:
Front - 2.0
Back - 0.8

TOE:
Front - 5.0
Back - 4.0

ANGLE - 7

ANTI-ROLL BAR
Front - 25.00 (or close to)
Back - 20.00 (or close to)

SPRINGS: (This varies with heavier cars with different springs amounts. With heavier cars, start at the 50 mark and go down in the hundreds that the vehicle is at and go down in 25 increments)
Front - 550.0 (IE 850.0 on heavier vehicles)
Back - 500.0 (IE 800.0 on heavier vehicles)

RIDE HEIGHT:
As low as it will go in the front and the back.

REBOUND STIFFNESS:
Front - 7.5
Back - 7.0

BUMP REBOUND:
Front - 6.5
Back - 6.0

DIFFERENTIAL:
Acceleration - 90%
Deceleration - 20%

Now the reason I didn’t touch the gearing is because that overall will be a personal choice. If you feel you are not getting enough power to keep your wheels spinning through your turn, change the final drive towards more acceleration and vice versa if you want to lengthen your gear.

Once you have these settings on your vehicle, save the set up and double check your driving assists. In order for you to properly drift, you want to turn off your ABS, TCS, and STM so that the computer doesn’t slow or correct your car. Also, make sure you are driving with Manual settings.

Now as I mentioned, I set this to a Honda Civic which is a hatchback. This car will really stick to the inside of the turns and really slide around with the correct throttle control. Tighter turns may need to feather the gas and longer turns may need to punch down on the gas to keep sliding but it is capable of doing 40K-50K on the Indy GP Classic track.

If you are still learning to drift, remember that the E-brake and the actual brake are your friends. If you are going to fast, you may have to use both brakes to slow down enough to take the curve correctly and keep the drift alive. The hardest thing to get down is when to use the brakes and the gas, which will just take practice. But with this tune and some patience, you can be putting up some nice numbers in no time.

If you need any additional help, I have no problem jumping in a lobby with those who need help. Just add phonyrabbitz and shoot me a message.

[Mod Edit - Abbreviated profanity, profanity and profanity that is disguised but still alludes to the words are not permitted - D]

Drag tires are not always your best choice when going for points. For instance when you straighten up for whatever the reason may be it can be harder to break your tires loose since you have so much grip. Street tires are just as fast as drag tires when drifting. Also, a roll cage actually adds stability while drifting. It will make you smoother and able to handle a hard transfer better.

I use to use street tires and roll cages but I do a lot better without. With everything race and the soft springs, it’s really easy to break grip even without tapping the E brake. Transferring the weight is even easier and sometimes doesn’t even require any breaking at all. It is entirely experimental and things are different for peoples styles of drifting. I have just found this to be the easiest way to drift solidly.

So here is a drifting montage I created using my drift tunes. The vehicles included are like the Ford Shelby Raptor, GMC Vandura, Rolls Royce Wrath, Bently Continental, Honda Civic SI, Mitsubishi Lancer, and etc.