DriveHub - use your 'old' Fanatec, Logitech, Thrustmaster or Microsoft wheel on XB1 - & MORE!

DriveHub - use your ‘old’ Fanatec, Logitech, Thrustmaster or Microsoft wheel on XB1

!!! I don’t work for CollectiveMinds or ChronusMax. This is no promotion, just a user review !!!
I’m just a guy with an old Fanatec wheel.

The DriveHub is a Plug&Play! solution for XB1 and PS4.
With the latest update even for PS3 and PC.
A lot of ‘old’ wheels are supported.

info @
info @

Compatible Wheels

  • Logitech G25
  • Logitech G27
  • Logitech G29
  • Logitech Driving Force
  • Logitech Driving Force Pro
  • Logitech Driving Force GT
  • Logitech G920
  • Thrustmaster T80
  • Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel
  • Thrustmaster TMX Pro
  • Thrustmaster T150 Pro
  • Thrustmaster T300 RS
  • Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback
  • Thrustmaster T150 Ferrari Wheel
  • Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari GTE
  • Thrustmaster T500RS
  • Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
  • Fanatec Porsche Turbo
  • Fanatec Porsche Carrera
  • Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S
  • Fanatec Porsche 911 GT2
  • Fanatec Porsche 911 GT3
  • Fanatec Porsche 911 GT3 v2
  • Fanatec Porsche 911 GT3 RS
  • Fanatec CSR (+ Pedals)
  • Fanatec CSR Elite (+ Pedals)
  • Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base
  • Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2
  • Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
  • Fanatec CSL
  • Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel (Wireless PC adapter required)

It works the same way, like the original Fanatec PWTS worked with the PS3. The PWTS emulated a G25 when put in PS3-Mode.

The DriveHub emulates a Logitech G29 (PS4) or Logitech G920 (XB1) for every ‘supported’ wheel.
In PS3- or PC-Mode it emulates a Logitech G27.

With the Fanatec PWTS it uses the PWTS-PC-Mode. After connecting everything correct, the wheel is seen as above mentioned Logitech model. Ingame everything is like with the Logitech wheel and you can remap keys, etc.

On the hardware site it even puts the PWTS in the correct mode (XB360 for XB1 or PS3 for PS4) and illuminates the keys for the correct system
(PWTS-Users will know what I’m talking about).

PLUS: For old Fanatec wheels it supports 3 different FFB-Modes (see details on the website).

I own the DriveHub since the release this fall (2017).

Until know I tested the DriveHub for a short time on FM7 @XB1 + @XB1X and even with the standard settings it is … very good.

Most of the time I use my PWTS with GT Sport @PS4pro and OMG it is … SUPERB !!!

I haven’t updated on the latest driver yet. Will test this in the next days.

If anybody has more questions just post here, or send ma a PM.

DriveHub support forum:

Pro tip:

For US citizens cronusmax might be ‘cheaper’. If you live in the EU, you should order at with the 10% coupon.
Collectiveminds ships the EU orders from the UK, you save the extra import duty! couponcodes:

freeshippingusa (free shipping US)
freecanada (free shipping CA)
GIVEME10 (offers 10% off)

Cronusmax couponcodes:

BLACKFRIDAY25 (offers 25% on Black Friday)
GIVEME10 (offers 10% off)

I got a Drive Hub about 3 Months ago. It works just fine. My Fanatec CSR wheel is seen as a Logitech G920 on the XB1. Oddly enough the wheel feels about the same on the XB1 as it does on the PC. I tested DH and the wheel on Assetto Corsa, PCARS1, FM5, FM6, FM7, FH2, and WRC 5. It did really well with most of those titles. It even brought PCARS1 to life, and now it’s permanently installed on my XB1.
My only complaint was with Forza 5 and Forza 6. Due to my wheel settings, the games FFB was very numb, and the wheel only shook when something went wrong. I never managed to dial in any feel, but I did try for about 2 weeks.

Soon after getting the Drive Hub, I finished my PC build, and I was able to compare the CSR running as a G920 on the XB1 through Drive Hub to, the wheel being natively supported. And the performance is surprisingly close. I was able test the PC equivalents of Assetto Corsa, FM7.

For AC, the wheel behaved the same, but on the PC the details were clearer however; soft locks on the PC required me to edit an option AC’s ini file. Not a big deal at all. Aside from that minor issue, the wheel’s display worked as a gear indicator on PC. On the XB1, I got treated to a lowercase N.

Forza 7 was strange. On PC I feel that the wheel is more responsive, than on XB1; I found my self having to turn in earlier to get the car rotated. It was odd because the telemetry seemed to indicate that the wheel was responding immediately, but in a race I had to grab the car by the scruff of it’s neck to do anything. The forces felt a little muted too on the console, but responded the same as they do on PC. This made the wheel feel smoother on the XB1. Unlike FM5 and FM6, any changes I made to the wheel had a noticeable effect, and the turn in issue was resolved by dropping the DOR from 900º to 540º.
On PC, again the wheel a tiny bit sharper, and the forces were just as crisp as they could be. I am able to happily run the wheel in 900º, regardless of the car I use. The display acts as both a Speedometer and a gear indicator, making the clean screen option do-able. Also I set the wheel to native rotation, everything 0 or off and let the game handle all of the dampers and what not. The only setting I did turn on was Drift. I now have it set to 1, in order to make the wheel self centering a bit more immediate.

Over all, the Drive Hub was painless. I did have a self caused problem when setting it up initially. But after retracing my steps and changing out a cheap cable I tried using, it worked perfectly.
I think it’s a good purchase for anyone with a working FFB wheel, and wanting to use it on this generation of consoles. It also does cause the CSR to show a bit of it’s age due to all the creaking and noise it makes when in use. Good thing I play my dungeon of a basement, far away from everyone else while they are asleep.

DRIVE HUB IS A WHEEL SAVER. I just got the Drive Hub. After i watched the video again I got it running. NOTE>>>>>Plug the cords in exactly as they show you or you will have serious issues. Make sure you have the settings set to Manual trans NO clutch. It has the X-box button set to 1st gear on the 7GS gear shifter, is this normal? What are you doing for sound and game chat? I have been using the controller with the headset adapter and my turtle beach X-42 headphones. Any help would be appreciated.

Big Thank you to Collective minds and their Drive Hub

According to your other post you have a Fanatec CSR.
I run a Fanatec PWTS + CSPv1 + CSSQv1.0, so i can’t say much about a different wheel.

But make sure all your firmware is updated (xbox controller, drivehub, fanatec wheelbase).

If you have still problems after that … maybe just post at the Drivehub support forums… for direct help from the developer

thinking of getting one of these, I currently have a Logitech G29 and was going to buy a G920 when i came across this product a few weeks back,
so will this turn my G29 into a G920 and will I need any additional cables?

Yes, your G29 will be detected as a G920.

You plug your G29 via USB in the DriveHub.
Your XBox controller via USB in the DriveHub.
And the DriveHub via USB in the XB1.

You need 3 USB cables.

You already should have 2 from the G29 and your gamepad.

The DriveHub comes with another one (standard usb 2.0 to usb-micro 2.0)

ok brilliant, thank you!

Hi guys, did you someone of you try the drifting in Forza Motorsport 7 with Microsoft Racing wheel ? It is not working correctly via Drivehub, is impossible to keep car in drift. Most probably is needed to change the values of Advanced setting in the game. Thanks in advance.

Just ordered an Xbox One for my kids, I own a couple Microsoft Force Feedback Wheels from when I used to game on a 360.

Would you recommend Drive Hub with this wheel (Forza is one of the games bundled)?

I see it requires the Wireless Adapter for PC which I also have can it support more than one wheel connected?

Does it allow me to connect any legacy controller

Are there better alternatives on the market?

Thanks in advance