Demoralizing...

So I’m fooling around with a few tunes I have going on tonight. I test all of my tunes on Old LeMans for some reason (no logic to it, just what I do). Well, I get the one B class car up into the top 600 while running rivals on that track. I’m feeling pretty good about myself. I’m driving a Buick GNX and its the 4th highest ranked Buick on that leaderboard. Its not a world beater, but its a pretty good car with something like 540HP that tops out at 187MPH. Well, as I’m scrolling through the leaderboard looking at some of the other cars. There’s lots of Mercedes 300SLs, a handful of Jags, some Audi RS7s and Nissan GTRs. Ok, I get that, they are all pretty fast cars. Then, there it is… A whole 9 seconds better than me is a 63 VW Beetle. Like I said, my car goes 187 MPH, how in the world does a Beetle beat me by 9 full seconds? Its not like I’m a scrub that just started playing the game (well, I am sort of, but that’s not the point), I’m in the top 600. You’re talking about a Beetle that has to be going 200+ MPH. Are you serious?

I know its a game, but that one hurt :slight_smile:

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I haven’t touched the Beetle, but I’m sure there is a motor swap involved. A real Frankenstien car.

I have one for D class and its actually fun to fool around with. It hits like 108MPH while screaming like its going to blow up or something. I’m not complaining, just wasn’t expecting to see that on Old LeMans.

you can put a helicopter engine in a beatle or mini and get into r class easily. it become a bugatti…it faster than many r class cars but cant turn. i haven’t lost to a beetle or mini yet in r class but did lose to a datsun 500 once. with the right engine change the r class beetles are probably mid 240s, but when it comes to the turns they cant hang with the saleen. and if you are good enough to handle that r class beetle you are good enough to handle the henesy which with proper gearing and no areo would probably hit 300. i am not that driver.

by the way that buick can be tuned to handle just like the mini but has more hp and hence is faster for b class. it owns silverstone. also tuning is about a higher minimum speed not top speed. its about not loosing to much speed in the corners otherwise bugatti would own the leaderboards. well maybe for drag but i dont drag.

I understand your premise, but I don’t agree with it entirely. I have three tunes for that Buick I’m playing around with. A grip tune (that will handle as well as the Mini, yes), a combination tune that is middle of the road grip and middle of the road power, and a full blown power tune that is all HP and very low on grip. The grip tune will always deliver the best times for me on tracks like Catalunya. The Medium tune works best on tracks like Sebring full. The full blown power tune will completely blow away the other two at Old LeMans every single time. Your premise is a good philosophy for racing and one that has lots of merit to it. However, its not always correct as building track specific cars has its advantages. If I can take the corners at 60 MPH and the straights at only 140 MPH in one car, are you telling me that’s going to beat a car that can only take the turns at 30 MPH but will hit 187 MPH on an 8 mile track where at least 6 miles of it is gun it and go? I’ll take that bet in a heartbeat. Put the same drivers in each car and what results do you get? An apples to apples comparison is my grip tune is about 20 seconds slower on Old LeMans than my full blown power tune is with me driving both cars. It might get a lead through the early turns and possibly even hold a small one up until the beginning of the long straight away. Once there, its over and its not even close. I know because I’ve run against my ghost many times in Rivals. I’m sure you’re a more skilled driver than me, but I’d be willing to bet that you would have similar results driving both cars. I understand what you are saying about Bugattis and so forth though…

Lots of power and a transmission that doesn’t rev out.

That Buick doesn’t have enough power for that track so you are going to get stomped by anything with a crazy power build. You need to be somewhere around 900hp at least. I think those mercs are running 1,000+ hp.

To put in perspective, my C LeMans car that isn’t built right goes over 225mph. I’d imagine the B class cars are hitting at least 240. 187Mph is slow for that track. Lol. Crazy, I know.

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How do you get that kind of HP without exceeding the 600 PI points for B class? I’m not looking to top the leaderboard, that’s why I was mostly comparing myself to other Buicks. Mine is 4th, last I looked, and I’m really really happy with that. Not satisfied though because a friend is 3rd about 1.5 seconds ahead of me in the same car (or that might be La Sarthe, can’t honestly remember). The most I’ve built out a car in B class yet is with 650 or so HP (and it was lousy at turning even the simplest of corners). My best B class car is 598HP but I’m even struggling with the tune on that thing. The Buick (speed tune) is around 540 and still actually handles pretty well. To get up around 900HP, I can’t see how the car should still be allowed in the same class. 900HP is S class or better material, IMO. Something is seriously wrong with the class system if B class cars are hitting 900HP or higher…

Cars for this track that are good do not handle good at all. They are a pain. This is why the leaderboards have a massive drop-off in lap times. It is difficult to keep the things on the track.

For LeMans, the emphasis is putting as much power as possible with a suitable transmission. Tires are the last thing you put on and odds are you will only be able to put on wider tire width. For this track, you put on adjustable handling parts including differential (front and rear aero is debatable), then find an engine swap or some power combo that gives you as much power as possible, then consider tires, weight reduction and rim sizes. Odds are there will be no room for tires.

If your car is driving good and you stumble into a lobby with someone who has built for this track, your only chance is to hope he/she wrecks.

There is a difference between a speed tune and a LeMans tune. LeMans tunes can only be used on LeMans and Road America East, and if you have incredible driving skills, Sebring and Bathurst (I’ve seen it).

You’re right that these cars shouldn’t exist and even the game can’t control the car. It is one of those things that tuning and driving ability trump what is logical.

Old Le Mans is a unique track, cars built for it (absolute maximum top speed) are probably good for nothing else.

I just built buick old la man B…403 second , 406 clean third lap… I drove like I driving miss daisy… 825hp. I left seconds
on every corner.

You type like you’re driving Miss Daisy too, cause I have no clue what you just said :slight_smile:

translation: I built a buick for old le mans in B class. On my second lap I ran a 4 min 3 second lap, on the third I ran a 4 min 6 second lap. My car has 825HP and I was driving like a chauffeur for Miss Daisy. I left seconds on every corner so this car can go much faster.

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And to take it further…the few seconds you left in the corners, you can add 20 to that time if you don’t tune for the long straights. As Foot said, you tune a car to run well at Le Mans it won’t be good anywhere else. Stock tires, 900+ horsepower and hold on for all you have.

Lou, thank you for making this post!

Out of curiosity I built up a Buick for this track. Unfortunately you cannot get 900hp+ in the car without making it A class, but it still goes a little over 220mph.

I ran the car at Old LeMans and posted a clean 3:56.1 which is #48 at the moment. I was on pace to run a 3:55.4 based on the final split but I messed up the braking in the final chicanes. Car should run 3:54s in the hands of LeMans aces like Clay in LA *** cough cough *** and is by far one of the best handling LeMans cars I have ever driven in lower classes. I’m really pleased with it. For those interested on 1st lap laptimes, I ran a high 4:00 time.

I have shared the tune and set the filter to LeMans and Old LeMans for those who would like to try it out. The car is meant to be ran with TCS and do not put the car in 1st gear. Additionally, no ABS is highly recommended since I’m running stock brakes. Haha.

Currently it is the fastest Buick on the board. :slight_smile:

Once again thanks for making this thread. I never would have tried this car here if it wasn’t for you and now I have a solid lobby car. If I could give you credits or an expensive car, I would. Thanks man.

No need to thank me, you did the work. I have almost 50 million in CR and don’t know what else to do with them, but I appreciate the sentiment. Sounds like a beast of a car. I may have to try it out… Though its probably too much for me and you’ll force me to stay in my wimpy 187MPH car that only runs a snail’s pace 4:13 with me driving it :slight_smile:

A buddy of mine had a Buick GNX (I had a Monte LS which was basically the same car without the turbo) when we were growing up and that car handled terribly. Its amazing that they handle so great in the game.

Lol I think you are doubting yourself too much. All you got to do is baby the car and be cautious around corners with the throttle until you get the hang of it.

And yea in ever other forza game the Buick just didn’t handle right even when tuned, which makes sense for how it was designed. For whatever reason in this game, the car just hooks up. It is a pleasant change for me because I’ve always wanted a Buick (in general) to be good in this series.

Ok, I just ran 5 laps in your “car.” That thing is insane. I have to hand it to you, you’re way way way better than me. I have no idea how you run a clean lap with that thing and be competitive. I really babied it the one lap because I was determined to get a clean lap but the time was like a minute slower than yours. I pushed it hard a couple of laps and actually ran a 4:07, but went off the course multiple times. The hardest spot for me was that bend in the long straight. It would be fun to drive if it actually had some tires on it, but I’m not ready for something like that the way it is.

coast thru the bend so the none of the tires energy is used accelerating or decelerating so 100% of the energy can be used keeping the car on the track, and turn slighlty sooner than you think you should and let the cars weight carry it wide enough to not cut the corner.

Another time, another day. Afterall, I’m like the worst Forza player ever since I only have 9 times in the top 500 (really? I have that many? I was kind of glad to read that actually). Gotta get that worked out first :slight_smile:

Post a clean lap and I’ll give you pointers.

These cars are primarily for experienced forza players and even then it’s no cake walk. It’s an acquired taste but it is worth learning to teach control of RWD cars that aren’t grip based.

There is a fine line with these cars and compared to others I’ve driven this car has a little more leeway. Basically you have to turn in early to get the same response as a tune with more grip and lightly play with the gas to keep the car on a good line. It is possible to let off the gas too much which will cause you to manually correct the car to stay on a good line. This is bad for these cars because it upsets the car’s balance.

Same goes with taking corners late. You’re pretty much asking for the lawn keeper job. Basically throttle control helps keep the car steady and pointed in the right direction.

But yea I crack the throttle when I hit the backstretch corner if I’m too late. You have to turn in way before you hit the corner. If I recall correctly, I start turning in hard after the bump that gets you airborne slightly. You want be be right on the inside white line around the corner and when you exit you can run over the outside white line a little and be clean. Use rewind here.