Even though I’ve been playing Forza games for a while I’ve never adjusted the controller settings. I’m at a point where i think that would help my enjoyment and gameplay. Can anyone explain the deadzone settings etc? I am really wanting to turn the sensitivity down a bit as right now if i barely touch the stick my car makes a sharp movement. I’d like to know if there is a way to set it so that it’s not so touchy so i can get smoother turns and adjustments out of it.
Thank you in advance. (apologies if there is already a decent thread on this as i searched and didn’t find one. If there is can you please direct me there.)
GT: blitzzer50
Fm4 unicorn car 2002 Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type-A
I’ll be honest, I tried adjusting the settings on my stick for steering and I felt like it made it worse. I hear you on the touchy. I DID however feel like when I adjusted the throttle it’s waaaaay better. I think there is a dead zone at the top in the beginning and all the way full for throttle. And I put it out to 1-100 I think if I remember correctly. So that the throttle starts to rev pretty much as soon as you start depressing the button. Felt like I had more control of the throttle. Otherwise the way it in stock settings, you have a bit of travel before it starts to rev and I don’t like that at all.
Also, I made the clutch the A button so you can shift with clutch with just your thumb. That was great. Very awkward to try and clutch the left bumper and brake at the same time.
I believe there is a controller set up menu in the general settings menu. You can adjust the overall sensitivity there. I’m pretty sure you can even have different settings for different game types.
In a nutshell, the deadzones control the range of motion on the triggers and sticks. Inside is the amount of input needed before the controller responds, outside is the maximum input needed for maximum response. So, if you set the throttle inside deadzone to 5, you will have to squeeze the trigger 5% before you see any response in the game. If you set the throttle outside deadzone to 95, you will be at max throttle when the trigger is at 95% travel.
If your looking to take out the “twitchyness”, I would try adjusting the steering inside deadzone. Leave the outside at 100 for now. I use a wheel, so I’ve never adjusted them for the controller. Not really sure what effect they will have, but I think that might help you out.
Some cars are really sensitive to how you’ve got your controlls set up. Some cars like the Viper and Shelby Cobra are very sensitive to throttle steering inputs. Ironically enough, the Lotus Elan built up to the B class P.I. 500 is very sensitive in much the same way. If you look under the skin these cars have very simular characteristics. Despite there rather significant weight differences, they are somewhat overpowered for there respective weight classes, with very short wheelbases. Add in performance suspensions and grippy tires for the repsected time periods, and their somewhat over responsive characteristics come into focus.
This can be exaggerated by digital input feedback problem. You can inadvertently cause pilot introduced oscillations this way. It happens with fly by wire controls. It’s easy enough to create a nice tank slapper with a mechanical input control system. But with digital controls, even with the partial analog controls of the Xbox controller I can sometimes introduce a tank slapper trying to command too much too fast from the controller. It takes time. Especially when you want to introduce the full manual shifting your talking about. It took me about a month to fully convert to A button clutch shifting. And now I can rev-match downshift almost as well with a controller as I can in a real car with clutch throttle pedals. Before I used semi-manual. Now I almost never do, even when I’m driving the prototypes. I just don’t wanna dull my skills using the lazy clutch anymore.
It really puts the driving into a dynamic and fun place when you involve the third pedal. It’s a complete disconnect when you only have to pull a flappy paddle. No matter what Jeremy Clarkson says. If it doesn’t have three pedals on the floor, you’re not driving it. Having the clutch pedal involves you in the link between the engine and tires. Sure, you can go faster in a car without the third pedal. But then you’re just going fast. You’re along for the ride. Not involved in it. You’re asking the car what you’d like to do. Than the cars computers will tell you, precisely how that’s gonna get done. When you have the clutch, you’re telling the car what’s gonna happen and when. And the law of physics is then the only thing that will tell you different from time to time.
Now if I can turn off my driving purist for a moment. My controller deadzones are all set to 2 inside, and 98 outside. I minimize my range of travel by only 4%, but so I want a very slight deadzone on either side, so that any incidental touch of the controls does not interupt my intent, but so that action begins as soon as I apply pressure. I draw from aircraft pilots to understand the finer theory on how to drive. You have to look at every control surface and think of relaxing, and applying pressure. You will not get the most from the machine, by trying to hamfist it hear and there. You are not wrestling a boar, 500 miles south southeast of Fiji. You are guiding a machine. So you must love it a little. Caress it a little. If you’re dashing back and forth with the controls. That means somethings wrong. So do give yourself a little play in the controls, but not too much. I’d say no more than 3% either side. You must keep it so every control is responsive, but you must also need to be deliberate with each control input.
This is Car Driving Purist 101-B Semester 1. Exams are every friday. And I grade on a curve.(Pun inputed deliberately) So bring your A game, depite this being 101-B class.