As of late I have been playing with builds and trying things that I normally didnt before,while I have learned a few things this last week I still kind of dont understand some things well.
In the past my builds usually went engine upgrade,centri SC then on to race upgrades in brakes and suspension. Maybe some weight reduction then all out power with whats left. Plus the widest possible tires I could get on there.
But lately I have done it differently depending on class.
I mostly drive muscle or newer muscle…Ford,Chevy,Pontiac and such like anything from Mustangs to Vettes.
So I start of with the 5.7 and centri SC upgrade.
Tires I start off with stock compound,then try to keep the rear around 295-325’s with max front
Race chassis parts and get the car as light as possible to stay within the class I want.Minus chassis support at first.
Whatever PI is left goes to power. tranny is normally 1 above stock.
This has been working better for me on most any car.
But there are some cars that I have a lot of trouble getting a decent build on.
Ex: Monte Carlo SS,IROC-Z
If I build like above then either…
I use the tranny upgrade to 1 above stock and while the first 2-3 gears do fine the others are very sluggish and fall low in the power band, slow to higher speed
or
I upgrade the tranny to adjust the final gear and it takes a good chunk from PI and while I now have a build that runs the gears in the power band I lose a chunk of HP and end up with a slow build.
But I see others in these same cars that do not seem to have those issues. Im not the best racer I know but on a lot of tracks in rivals I have got anywhere from the top 150-500.My usual class racers are c through A with the occasional S class.
So with all that being said,whats the best way to correct for those issues. The issue with those is mostly in class C and B for me.
I havn’t really tried to figure those few cars in FM6 yet (87 Firebird, GNX, Monte Carlo, 90 Camaro)
In FM5 the plan was to add power even sacrifice some grip, and stick with stock transmission. The result was insane acceleration trough 3rd gear, and stick on to tracks where you really didn’t need 4th
So far I have not really started testing on these cars in FM6, But I managed to flip together at least half decent B class -90 Camaro, while using race transmission.
I have it shared so you can download the tune, remove tune, and see what parts I used.
I don’t think it goes too high on the boards in anywhere, but I have been pretty consistently pulling podiums in lobbys on quite many tracks with it.
Yeah I kind of been just adding more power less grip to help,but I just dont do well in cars that run like that. But then I also kind of hate using the higher end trany’s and losing out on that PI for power.
In B class it isnt so bad but Ive been doing a lot of C class and tried those cars and its just feels sloppy and weak to me. With my builds I try keeping my shifts to hit at about 4500 rpm’s on the upshift. Anything less and I usually just run slower lap times and I do even worse in MP. C class is for me the hardest for me to build in until recently.
I have a nice fast C class 60 vette that runs on stock tire compound and stock size,handles surprisingly good.
I’ll give your tunes a go and see how it compares to mine. I usually dont use others tunes since there is usually something out of whack to my driving style. If I build and tune to my style Im usually running faster.
Also between some of you HLR guys and gtfoot on my friends list,I have a hell of a time posting better times on the LB friends list, FOOT being the most difficult for me to keep pace with. But I know if I build a car that will at least keep pace with yall’s then Im good in MP races. Besides rivals can get addicting…lol.
I’ll take a look at it when I wake up, if I can figure out decent C class cuild for any of the cars I listed. I’m pretty sure that I can get something out of one of those.
.
I have a build for the Monte Carlo that you might like to add your own tune to it, or test mine. Would need to make some room to share it out, or, I can just give you the build. C-class
you may want to start thinking in terms of race, sport or street or stock , not levels above stock or max. Stock does not = stock is some cases and max width could any thickness because it depends of the car/ car type.
Yeah I realized that last night after I posted this. I really need to start remembering names but age is kicking in…lol.
Note:
PRKID,
That willys c class on Long Beach is freaking fast,I just cant get around that track fast enough. I’ll admit its not a favorite track so I dont ruin it much but still.
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, the Willys (several tunes) has done some good damage around many tracks. Check out the D-class version at VIR Patriot Alt (day/night/rain).
Done some testing with C calss GNX and it seems pretty bad. Here is how my build ended up.
Conversions
5.7 + centrifugal
Patform
All race except sport weight, no rollcage
Drivetrain
street driveline
race diff
Tires
Stock compound
Stock Width
Rims Asanti AF 118 (one of the heaviest rims)
Rim size 18" F/R
Forza Aero
Hood
There is also another build, Bit lighter and uses the stock engine, and post equal lap times. it handles bit better but is weaker on straights.
I could see that the car could be decent in races, it does accelerate well enough that it’s hard to pass. How ever it isn’t really too good handling car which slow’s it down quite a bit.
Then again this is the higest PI car of those I listed earlier so others might do a bit better.
And it seems like I completely forgot one tuning competition entry car I made.
It didn’t do too well on the comp, but now that I tested it on Cata national I posted #658 1:24.700
Monte Carlo open souce
Build
Conversions
5.7 V8
Centrifugal S/C
Engine
Street Exhaust
Sport S/C
Platform & Handling
All race, (I guess the rollcage could be removed for better upgrades)
Driveline
Street Driveline
Race Differential
Tires & Rims
Sport Compound
245 / 325 F/R
Rims
Cragar Bonneville series (specialized style) (Lightest possible)
17/17 F/R
Aero & Appearance
Forza Aero F/R
Tune:
Tires
PSI 27.0/27.0 F/R
Gearing
Alignment
Camber
-2.0/-1.5 F/R
Toe
0.0/0.0 F/R
Caster
5.5
Braking
Balance
53%
Force
150 (Drivers preference)
Differential
50/20 Acc/Dec
FM6 was rather new at the time when this was built, and I wan’t completely figured the game out at this time. So there is probably slightly better builds, and most definitely better tunes around. but overall it isn’t too bad of a car.
Mostly momentum type tracks is all I try to use it for in that class.
Road america, atlanta.
But its not so much the tracks as it is the build.
Trying to build it to keep pace in that class without using the trans that allows final gear adjustments. Because if I do then I lose to much PI to put into HP.
Ive seen several tracks on the LB where those card Juggernaut mentions placing well but to me when I build one they just seem sluggish in gear changes,mainly if you need to go into 4th.
Monte Carlo is #1 at c class road atlanta. The stock gearing is fine. I didn’t notice any issues with it. Just put a ton of HP in the car and leave tires alone. It grips better than it should.
Road America and Atlanta have bit too long straights.
That monte Carlo I shared is built for Road Atlanta Club originally.
The thing is that when you keep the stock gearbox, you will gain big acceleration on 2nd and 3rd gear, Way higer than most other cars. The issue is that soon as you need to use 4th more than few hundred feet the others start gaining you way faster than you could pull out on slower speeds.
In other words, The car is awesome as long as you don’t need 4th gear.
The thing is that thse cars are great on shorter straights,and other “flat out” areas where you don’t really need 4th gear. Outside of them they are pretty much useless.
It seems that the cars which are in game are either using TurboHydramatic(TH) 200-r4 or TH400 automatic gearbox, and in both of those the 4th gear is quite literally “highway gear” It’s there just to bring the RPM’s down to conserve fuel. To get any use of it you need to be on LeMans straight, or oval (Daytona)
Now that I think of it, I don’t think 1 lap on daytona is enough to get it in to speed with that gearbox, mainly due that long 4th gear.
Cata National, Sebring Club, Nurnburgring GP, Yas tracks withuot the longest straight, Laguna Seca maybe, Those are the tracks that pop first in to my mind where these could do rather decently.
The key to understand the gearing of both cars as an example first the monte Carlo it only has 3 short use able gears with the 5.7 so it’s only fast upto about 220kph so if you 5.7 that car use it on tracks like LA man’s bugatti circuit or long beach short tx3 motorsport has a fast one in b class at LA man’s bugatti as for the IROC that’s a monster with the 5.7 remember both these car use the stock box the IROC feels slow but it’s not trust me it’s going faster then what it feels but both these cars you don’t want too much handling cause they need the torque to pull through the revs so as an example in b class don’t go for then 5.2 handling ether car otherwise not enough torque.So remember stock box and street trans for both cars and use the IROC for top end circuits road America is a good choice however nurburgring nords its fast too.As for building you have the right idea But remember experiment with tyre sizes trust me there is a ratio for front and back tyre sizes in general but there are still some difficult cars to build right also I’d recommend massive rims for both front and back on most cars to increase top speed slightly and turning response.
I built two versions of the '90 Camaro for C class. The first had a tuned race trans and 325 hp. The second had a stock trans and 390 hp. Everything else, tune and build were identical.
Tested at COTA GP and the stock trans was consistently 2 secs. faster, 2:31.x vs. 2:33.x. The bottom line is the race trans just kills this car in C class. It can be competitive with the stock trans, just annoying to drive as it never seems in the “right” gear.
Yup thats how I feel so far. So stay on short tracks and Im good.
I just wasnt sure if it was the cars,me or what. But looks like its what I thought.
Yeah I know how those crappy tranny’s in the Monte Carlo SS’s were. I had a very nice 85 SS back in 92-94 in high school. Went through 2 tranny’s because of that 4th overdrive gear kept going out on them. Same trans in my 88 IROC did the same thing…4th gear.
Ok thanks everyone. I’ll get back to tinkering with builds and learn something.