when i’m driving and I brake or use the E-brake and get the rpm’s down to zero, the engine stalls for a second and doesn’t let me accelerate in that time, why does this happen. I am running manual with clutch.
Do you get the same issue if you go manual without clutch?
It stalls for the same reason it does if you did that irl. If you stop without mashing the clutch with a manual transmission, the engine bogs and the car stalls.
even if I dont stop completely and I just hold the e brake long enough until the rpm hits zero even going 200mph, it will stall @Capheraekton
I use manual/clutch all the time and the only time I stall is when I smash into a tree and come to a dead stop. When you’re breaking you need to downshift through the gears to keep the revs up. Not sure if this is the correct technical term but left foot breaking (breaking while keep your finger/foot on the accelerator) helps as well
And this is real life physics. It doesn’t matter how fast the car is traveling. When your rpm is zero then it means that the engine stands still. In real life you had to restart the engine by yourself whereas in Forza the game does this task for you after a second.
Um…if your RPM hits zero that means your car is…well…off.
You have to push the clutch in, that’s how a real car works too if its a manual.
Unless your driving a FWD car you will need to press the clutch when you hit the handbrake otherwise when the wheels lock up/stop rotating so does the engine
Not quite sure if this is the same phenomenon that OP is talking about, but I’ve noticed that, regardless of transmission type used (A/M/M+C), in general cars will have a split second delay between revving and it actually registering as movement on the drive train. You can try accelerating quickly and see revs fly up to the 4000 mark (using my Ford Cohzeeee as an example) before the car shoots off, and if done slowly that car oughta get moving at a far lower range (…making you ‘shoot’ off like an old biddy).
…and technically I don’t think we can even get the RPMs down to 0 and stall the car, as it’ll only go as low as the idling speed (not sure if there’s variation between cars, but for my lemon it’s approx 800). If I’m proven wrong here, I’ll gladly downtune my car and put a white sticker with a red L on it xD
Go drive a rwd manual car, pull the brake and fully lock the rear wheels then tell me what the RPMs do. The car will stall. It will however bump start once you release the ebrake and the wheels start moving again. Same deal with my street bike. If I want to start to slide in to a corner without my clutch pulled in by locking up my rear wheel, the engine cuts off. Unless there is a slipper clutch installed of course.
Well,
I’ve noticed the same thing with my cars. However I found that if you turn ABS “ON”, that seems to help. Also, try a LSD or Race differential. If you screw with it enuf you can find the proper Deceleration percentage and when you do you won’t have that sharp RPM drop delayed accel start-up.
Hope that helps.