@Loco, No fireworks here, the OP asked for advice on ideal camber settings, I offered insight based on observable facts (no claim as to what is best).
Your statements could be interpreted as a threat, but I will ignore that. When I’ve violated some forum code of conduct please let me know, (with link to source of course).
In what language? Footian? I think you made an accusation, that could be viewed as a threat. Backed up by absolutely nothing but what you feel is right.
So much drama in this forum lately…
@ Loco. “Honestly, quit while you are ahead. You have a nice little niche going for ya with the open source tuner gig. Why ruin it?”
Why ruin it? OR WHAT? Uh that can be interpreted as a threat.
How is asking a question a threat?
He’s saying that you have a good thing going, why would you ruin that?
We have moved past that, read my last post HERE.
Well, I was a little late to the party but at least got the Ancient Aliens guy up there.
So… You should or shouldn’t be looking for a Camber value of 0 while in mid corner. I am assuming not. Confirmations?
As close as possible to 0.
0 means the tire is flat on the road, therefore as the better grip.
If you have problem with straight line grip, too much negative camber can be the problem (Usualy seen with the inside of the tire hotter then the inside)
See the reason that doesn’t make sense to me (im not trying to be argumentative at all even though that is the tone here right now lol) is that the camber angle is in comparison to the car right? So if the car is leaning to the outside while cornering, then that “0” would not be flat on the road. If the car is leaning lets say 2 degrees and the camber is showing 0 then the tire would be leaning on its outside edge slightly wouldn’t it?
I must admit I’m not really looking at telemetry, so I dont know.
If the number are toward the road, so its as close a possible to 0. If its toward the car… Well the degree should be equal to the degree of the road… I think…
Yeah thats kinda what Im saying. Because the angle HAS to be tire to car. Not tire to road. If it was tire to road and you rolled your car, camber wouldn’t show 180 degrees. So if the car is leaning outward, then the tire must lean inward. So, with the angle being tire to car, your camber should be negative in a manner to compliment the body roll… Right?
Make sense to me.
^^^^^^ People who tune mostly by telemetry, usually end up with not good tunes. Hit Rivals select a track and drive. Figure out if 0 is possible with your telemetry.
I think all the setting are based on preference. I can run Worm’s tune or Foot’s tune and adapt to either. Some of Roadrunners tunes are a little to erratic for me, but it is obviously good for him so I can’t complain. I know for a FACT that most of my tunes aren’t compatible with everyone due to my lack of knowledge or desire to twist and tweak on a tune for a video game…so bottom line to each his own.
As for the comment about “if a car is not on flat ground” yes that has to be factored in but again, if you tune completely on what the telemetry is showing you won’t have a decent tune because ALL the factors have to be correct including the driver or how the car is being driven. Besides, don’t complicate this thing…find something that works and stick with it. If it takes an hour of tweaking and back and forth on telemetry to gain a tenth…well I guess I just don’t have the time to dedicate to that.
I agree. Im trying to develop my own tunes and my own way to reach them. I VERY rarely use telemetry while tuning. Sometimes it does come in handy. But the feel of the car and how it gets through the corners and brakes is number 1 in my book so far. Really the purpose of my long winded question was to confirm what didn’t quite make sense to me about statements made on how to tune.
This seem to be my style. I put on set value on a tune. Try it, tweak it until its good enough. Then hit rivals hard. A perfect line is better than a perfect tune. And I can hit a perfect line faster than I can a perfect tune.
Large camber in the front and slightly less in the rear is very common in open source tunes ,the possibility of something different is good, i’m a very new tuner i need to try any ideas out to get faster.
The reason people run high caster usually around 7.0 degrees is they learned it worked from FM2 and the tuning physics while different aren’t extremely. Same way everyone runs low bump settings it works, high rebound works, 100 diff works, etc,etc,etc. These things were learned from some guy/s running a bunch of laps trying one setting at an extreme high or low until they found that happy spot. Asking questions in regards telemetry, isn’t as effective as saying “I’m going to set the rear toe at +0.2 and see what happens?” It’s amazing what you will find when you just try something.
And its amazing what you can learn from asking questions. Plus its hard to tweak my camber from work 
I literally read for the 3rd time this morning about finding camber angle using telemetry that way. I just wanted some thoughts on it. And frankly I disagree with it.
It amazes me that people fine tune their cars to such precision by feel. Maybe thats all it is too! Seriously when somebody has a tune that runs number 1, and their camber (lets just say) in front is 2.3, how the heck did they know that is faster then 2.2??? Skill? Math? Feel? Maybe it is art…