C-Class Buick Regal GNX

I’m very new to Forza, I woudn’t mind some advice on the GNX build I am trying to do. It is very difficult to keep stable on the banking at Indy, but I don’t have enough experience to tell how much of this is driver and how much it might be messed up tune. It seems to be good for the career racing because it can actually pass several cars before the first turn…

One particular question - what are the pro/con of changing the rim size?

Thanks!

Specs
1987 Buick Regal GNX
Class: C500
Speed: 5.8
Handling: 4.7
Acceleration: 8.0
Launch: 7.7
Braking: 5.0
Power: 333bhp
Torque: 393 lbs-ft
Weight: 2784 lbs
Front: 53%
Displacement: 3.8L

Build
Conversion
-none
Engine

  • Air Filter: stock
  • Fuel System: stock
  • Ignition: stock
  • Exhaust: street
  • Camshaft: street
  • Valves: street
  • Displacement: stock
  • Pistons and Compression: stock
  • Single Turbo: stock
  • Intercooler: Stock
  • Oil and Cooling: Stock
  • Flywheel: Race
    Platform and Handling
  • Brakes: Race
  • Springs: Race
  • Front Anti-Roll Bars: Race
  • Rear Anti-Roll Bars: Race
  • Chassis Reinforcement and Roll Cage: stock
  • Weight Reduction: Race
    Drivetrain
  • Clutch: Street
  • Transmission: Stock
  • Driveline: Race
  • Differential: Race
    Tyres and Rims
  • Tyre Compound: stock
  • Front Tyre Width: 245/50R16
  • Rear Tyre Width: 255/50R16
  • Rim Style: Sport Rim Style – specialized Alumastar 2.0 Drag Race
  • Front Rim Size: Stock
  • Rear Rim Size: Stock
    Aero and Appearance
  • Front Bumper: Race (Forza)
  • Rear Bumper: Race (Forza)
  • Hood: Street #2
    Tune
    Tyres
  • Front: 26.5Psi
  • Rear: 26.5Psi
    Gearing
  • N/A
    Alignment
  • Camber: Front: -1.9° / Rear: -0.9°
  • Toe: Front: 0.1° / Rear: -0.2°
  • Front Caster: Angle: 5.5°
    Anti-Roll Bars
  • Front: 20.56
  • Rear: 28.51
    Springs
  • Springs: Front: 518.4 lbs/in / Rear: 332.5 lbs/in
  • Ride Height: Front: 6.8 IN / Rear: 6.8 IN
    Damping
  • Rebound Stiffness: Front: 11.6 / Rear: 13.0
  • Bump Stiffness: Front: 6.3 / Rear: 7.4
    Aero
  • Front: 50 lbs
  • Rear: 100 lbs
    Braking
  • Balance: 48%
  • Braking Force: 148%
    Differential
  • Acceleration: 28%
  • Deceleration: 15%

First things first build… get rid of the cams and clutch. Also the 5.7 engine is a better option.

Tune.
Air pressure seem low (28-30 psi)
Camber seems low (2.5-3.5)
Bump seems way high (1.0-3.0)

Thanks for the feedback. I’m trying to keep it a turbo V6, because it really wouldn’t be a GNX with a V8…

I’ll give the tuning changes a try.

Also get rid of the flywheel…

Here’s a couple things I would try.

Build

  • No weight reduction - this car fits a speed build and weight reduction uses a lot of PI that can be used on HP or maybe 1 tire upgrade
  • I know you want to keep the V6, but the 5.0 L V8 is a beast in this game
  • I don’t know if the v6 has the centrifugal supercharger available, but use it if it does…it’s the best ending upgrade in the game in the lower classes
  • Stock rim sizes are fine
  • Use the widest rear tire
  • Don’t use the flywheel, it really doesn’t do anything
  • Dont upgrade camshaft…at least not for C class

Tuning

  • More negative camber (something like -3.5 and -3.0)
  • I wouldn’t use any toe or camber, and 5.0 for the caster
  • Rear ARBs look too stiff, I would try something like 17 or 18. This will help control the backend mid-turn
  • Less bump…something < 3

Hope this helps!

The buick with the v8 and centrifugal supercharger and stock/sport transmission is an acceleration monster and one of the fastest muscle cars in C class if you can keep the rear in check. I don’t race mine anymore because it simple does not lose. Its that good.

Put the first tire upgrade on the car if you want more stability, but if you can handle it upgrade the supercharger to race and fill in parts elsewhere.

Only use flywheel and clutch upgrade if you are using automatic and to a lesser degree manual without clutch. If you are using manual with clutch, never ever use flywheel or clutch upgrades unless there is literally nothing else to to put on the car to top out the PI.

Else, the tuning advice above in previous posts is worth experimenting with, especially the camber. If the car is still struggling for grip, add larger rim sizes with the lightest rims. Sometimes that really works; especially on Indy.

I hear what you are all saying about the blown 5.7L, I am running that in a Chevelle, so I want the GNX to be ‘different’, even if that means slower (crazy I know).

Anyway, I tried the other ideas and improved my Indy time from ~1.51s down to ~1.47s on the first test. More to the point, I ran all the laps clean without needing to rewind from the inevitable mistake I would make with the other tune, especially on the banking. In rivals C class, this is a move from top 70% to top 14%.

The actual I changes made:

  • Airbox to sport (using up leftover PI)

  • Cams back to stock

  • Flywheel back to stock

  • Clutch back to stock

  • Tire compound to street

  • Tire pressure up to 28.0 front and rear

  • Camber changed to -3.5 front and -3.0 rear

  • Toe front and rear moved to zero

  • Front Caster dropped to 5.0

  • Rear ARB dropped to 18.01

  • Bump Stiffness dropped to 2.9 front and rear

Increasing the rear tire width adds on alot of PI, so I didn’t try that since I went with the grippier tires.

I kept the race weight loss. It is -45 PI to go back to stock (+666lbs, a bad omen :>), but handling goes from 4.9 → 4.6, acceleration from 7.8 to 7.3, launch from 7.9 → 7.7, and braking from 5.2->5.0. Not sure how I could get all that back spending the 45 PI on something different. I might give that a try after running with what I got for awhile.

Thanks for all the advice!

Acceleration, launch, and braking stats can be ignored. Don’t worry about making the car’s stats look good because in this game it doesn’t really matter. It is the combination of parts and tune that ultimately determine how well the car will perform. You’ll see cars at times with average looking stats pistol whip the field and others with amazing stats just run mid pack. (note: this is assuming the driver is capable and knows what he/she is doing.) However, the stats are a good base mark for comparable cars until you actually go out and experiment.

However, the fast muscle cars in C class that are good at most tracks have handling around 4.5-4.9. Anything over 4.9 is usually better served on the very grippy tracks. 4.2-4.7 handling is usually where the muscles cars for speed tracks (ones with several long straights) end up. You can see there is a bit of over lap and that is due to the car itself. Some muscle cars seem to grip well enough with very low handling statistics. The challenger comes to mind here. As for the buick, 4.6-4.9 seems to be ok to me since the car is a bit on the unstable side and once again you’re tuning for indy. Indy is a mix between a speed and handling track. You can get away with grip builds if they have very good top end or you can make a high acceleration tune that may or may not have great top end. Its a challenging track. The Buick I have for this track has low handling statistics but is a pain to drive. :wink: