Having spent my youth around the dragstrip, I can shed some thoughts on what’s “the norm” as far as usual tyre set ups go.
You run a taller ( larger diameter) front tyre rime set up that’s stock or thinner.
Reason being, the lights need a broader access to the start of the tyre wall before the pre-stage light illuminates, you roll " slightly" forward so it then engages the “staged” light. Having a broader tyre wall allows the car to roll ever so much before the light hits the rim, thus giving a foul light.
So fronts need to be tall tyre walls, narrow rim/wheel widths. Second reason for this is less friction and very quick steering response to keep car in one direction - dead straight. Tyre pressure needs to be 30+ psi.
Rear rim width needs to be as wide as available, and be as tall in diameter as possible as an upgrade allows. The Rim diameter however, needs to be as standard as possible, as drag slicks rely on tyre growth to increase top end gear ratio changes.
The tyre pressure should be low, lower than 20psi. This allows the slick to grow rapidly, increasing the tyres diameter and at the same time, giving maximum grip by the extreme width it has. The slick needs to grab the Tarmac as fast as possible, and have the largest footprint of adhesion at top revs, both off the line, and in each gear as possible
Google some funny car or pro car drag pre staging but outs or blips. You’ll see the rear tyres grow dramatically, and you’ll also notice that the tyre walls are crimmpled due to lowest tyre pressure possible. In fact, many heavy hitters have their tyres bolted to the rims due to extremely low tyre pressures at idyl etc. mainly the “big boys” do that however.
The main idea is to stage correctly, have some wiggle room when staged incase the car rolls slightly, which can happen if the clutch is pre-engaged properly and ready to unleash the rear tyres which should grab as fast as possible, and grow taller straight off the line.
Sadly, in Forza, when you upgrade to drag slicks, both front and rear tyres are given the same compound type.
When in fact, the rear tyres should be the only tyres that gain the slick compound, or, fronts only in FWD, and naturally, all 4 in 4WD. Get low in a view perspective of your car when you’re upgrading and watch the front tyres widen when you select drag slicks. Ideally, they should stay standard.
Many cars we raced back-in-the-day with slicks, had as little as 15psi, but that grew to 30psi once they were hot due to burnouts and pre stage set up.
The only reason you’d have standard tyre/rim widths on rear (in RWD) is to simply do massive burn outs… While these are entertaining, they certainly do not get you faster trap times or higher trap speeds.
Check out some of my Gallery Pics of my Nova, '53Vette, 510 Datsun drag versions… (Feel free to ‘like’ if moved to do so) and you’ll notice huge tyre rim differences and ‘attitude’ that earlier drag cars took. Many pre-raised the front of the car so as to shift weight directly to rear wheel asap while keeping the front ‘skinnier’ pointed straight ahead with as little friction as possible.