I have been working on doing some tuning. I have been using the ForzaTune app on the app store and it is working pretty well. I am also trying to understand exactly what/why each setting does. To date even without using the app I tend to fine tune oversteer/understeer via the roll bars and not do much with the springs after the initial adjustment. Can someone educate me on when it is best to use springs vs the Anti Roll Bar?
Primary function of the springs are to properly support the weight of the car.
Primary function of the ARBs are to provide extra support AND to balance front/rear during cornering.
When the car is travelling straight, vehicle weight is distributed on all 4 wheels/springs. In mid corner, most of the weight is on 2 outer wheels/springs. ARB’s provide extra support to the outer suspension by compressing the inner wheel’s springs. i.e. If the outer wheel suspension is compressed by 4 inches, the ARB compresses the inside wheels’ suspension by, say, 1 inch, thereby transferring some load and and the same time resisting the “roll”. A soft ARB will move it less, a stiffer ARB will move it more. Downside of the stiffer ARB is that the inside wheel could actually lift ‘off-the-ground’.
If springs are set poorly, then it is difficult to correct it using ARB. If the springs are in good useable range, then you can adjust the ARB to maximize the car’s cornering potential.
yes, first delete the forzatune 6 app from your phone. i bought it and tested it and it is garbage. it is garbage because it assumes every car handles the same and it puts out a generic tune for each drivetrain type. i am sure the makers of the app are nice guys and believe me i wish the app worked but it does not. all cars in forza 6 absolutely do not handle the same way.
springs = multiply your vehicle’s weight by .4 then take that # and multiply it by the cars weight distribution front or rear and that is your desired spring rate.
rollbars = after setting your springs set your bars to 1 and 40. if the car oversteers set them to 10/30, 20/20, 30/10, 40/1.
1/40 is maximum oversteer and 40/1 is maximum understeer. test each of the above bar settings until you have removed as much of the oversteer as desired.
if your car oversteers when you hit the brakes on corner entry raise your brake bias. move it towards the front.
if your car oversteers when you let off the gas during corner entry raise your decel on the diff.
if your car oversteers applying the gas during corner exit lower your accel on the diff
to remove oversteer in forza you soften the back of the car and stiffen the front. its that simple
you tell him to get rid of the forza tune app, yet you give him a flash tune? This makes no sense and is still not a great way to tune but whatever suits you. Plus u have no mention of dampers which are to me one of the most important aspects of the tune.
There’s no “proper” way to tune. No 2 tuners do it exactly the same. When someone posts a question on here we should assume that they are ready for several different ways of fixing a bad handling car
Jay you are absolutely correct that there is no proper way to tune. But my comment was basically regarding the fact that smokozuna tells op to throw away his app that does a flash tune, and use this flash tune instead. This makes no sense. Sure your method may provide better base tuning results but it is very over simplified even for me. And the way i look at tuning in forza is very simple. Different settings work with different parts of the car, no fancy formulas but you do have to know how each setting effects the car.
Springs - general balance
Dampers - fine tune controls to moderately adjust balance as needed as well as how the car handles changes in the surface.
Arbs - mid corner over/understeer as well as general responsiveness
Dif - corner entry and corner exit.
ride height - grip/speed
aero -grip/balance/speed/accell/braking (depends on what u want them to improve/make worse)
It is not as simple as get balance off of a formula for springs and then use the arbs for the rest of turning arbs are not quite that powerful.
In my opinion, once you have the cars weight balanced you shouldnt mess with the spring rates any more. If you do have to lower or raise them do it equally front and back to keep weight balanced
After making initial Spring/ARB settings according to the weight balance of the car the first thing I do is work on the rear spring rate, softening it if I’m in a car that produces excess wheelspin in a straight line.
Once that’s done I test varying degrees of softness (100 lbs lighter than base, 200 etc.) until I find what goes fastest or handles best for me.
After that I never touch the Springs again and use the ARB sliders to define the characteristics of the car, usually softening the front as I prefer a car with more direct steering.
Dampers I usually set at 10/10 and 2/2, occasionally adjusting for over/understeer. I find more time in ARB tuning than I do in Dampers, which is why I don’t spend much time on them.
I’m pretty sure tuning in Forza goes something like this. To get a car to handle well there is a number that is written in the code. I shouldn’t say number…numbers written in the game code that say ok this car will now handle. I think that it may be a number say between 1 and 10 with 5 being the optimal balance of speed and handling. And the closer you are to that “optimal” setting the better your car behaves. It might not even be numbers but some sort of other value, and there could be an infinite number of ways to hit that number/value which would explain how 2 different tuners can go about a tune totally different but still end up with a race car. And since the car can still handle well even if it didn’t hit the target exactly, we the drivers learn how to make an imperfect tune fast. I said we there, not me, I am not fast. But everybody knows who I’m talking about. Guys that are just fast. Anyway, I could be completely wrong here and just wasted your time by having you read a bunch of b.s. but I’m guessing if that’s not exactly how Forza works then its something similar, And I said all that to say this, you don’t have to agree with my tuning method or this tuners method or that tuners method. Let the car speak for itself and let the driver of the car decide which tuning method is correct, or I should say, correct for them. I highly doubt that anybody who takes the time and effort to learn to tune in Forza is an imbecile or whatever y’all are calling each other nowadays.
It’s a solid theory, and would explain why certain tuners can pump out dozens or hundreds of reasonably well-handling cars. They have figured out what “range” works best and get whatever cars they tune into that range.
There’s nothing wrong with that approach of course but personally I’m not into the “jack of all trades, master of none” style of tuning. When I decide to tune a car I know it’s going to be a car that I will use for a long time in Multiplayer hoppers. I set a clear goal and focus on the build until it can get as possible to that goal. After that I spend a week adjusting the settings so that it handles just right and gets even higher up the boards. Due to the time investment involved I don’t release many tunes as a result, but the ones I do put out there are the absolute best I can make them.
I think moparjay might be onto something. Lately I have been building up cars and tuning then in under 15 minutes each car. Building the car takes me 5 minutes, I have a baseline tune I throw on all the cars which takes me 1 minuteto enter all the values and another 10 minutes testing them on the track making only a few tiny adjustments and the car build and tune is complete. And I have gotten top 20s in under 5 laps on o the overall world leaderboards doing it.
One thing I definitely noticed doing this (I tuned 20 cars yesterday in A Class all of them) is that some cars are just naturally better. Depending on initial start weight, weight distribution, and how much tyre width you can upgrade to.