A step by step tuning guide with EVERY setting?

Has anyone every posted/found a tune that was shared online that showed every single setting/change in the tune up?

I’m not asking to steal a great tune, but I was hoping to use one as a learning guide. To be able to see each setting on a tune for a popular tune would help me better understand each setting and my expectations of it. I was hoping to learn to tune a few cars myself, rather than rely on others, and thought that seeing a tune may help that process.

Does this kind of detail exist or are all tunes very private?

Just curious. Thanks.

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It’s Impossible to my knowledge to make a tune available for everyone to see and edit

Instead I learned my tuning on this YouTube video channel: Keys to Speed - YouTube

It have some nice graphics to learn tuning and I highly recommend it. It may not be the BEST tuning guide but it will set a basis for when you want to tune

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User made tunes are always locked.
Some cars, Upgrade heroes??, came with expert tuning as well as the custom upgrades. So you can see how they differ from the stock tune.
Hope this helps.

I could share my exact build and tune of my 998 1995 GTR LM FE here that is able to push sub 7:55s on Goliath.
I’ll post the complete list after getting home from work.

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Shopping list for the Nissan GTR LM FE S2 998 build:
Set it to standard so that it gets RWD drivetrain.
Engine swap to 6.2L V8, most right aspiration upgrade, front & rear aero, lightest tier of rims, race clutch, race gearbox, race drivetrain, sport rollcage, everything on race on the engine except for the oil/cooling and cooler.
Your car should be 998 by now.
Tune (all values are in metric units) :
Tire pressure : 2.1 2.1
Gearbox: 3.25 axle, 2.89 1.99 1.49 1.16 0.94 0.78
Camber: - 3.0 - 2.0
Toe: 0.0 - 0.1
Nachlauf: 6.5
ARBs: 17.57 22.26
Springs: 112.5 99.8
Height: 10.2 10.2
Dampers: 10.5 9.3
Rebound: 4.7 4.2
Aero: 171 152
Brake: as it fits you best
Diff: 53%

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Another car where the game’s standard tune and mine widely differ, McLaren Senna. S2 998 build:
Shopping list:
Widest rear and front tires, stock rims, increase rear rim size, sport gearbox, race weight reduction
Tune:
Tire pressure: 2.1 2.16
Gearbox: 3.10 axle
Camber: - 3.0 - 2.0
Toe: 0.0 - 0.1
Nachlauf: 6.5
ARBs: 28.65 20.77
Springs: 93.7 129.4
Height: 7.7 11.2
Dampers: 8.8 12.1
Rebound: 4.0 5.5
Brake: as it fits you best
Diff: 51% 25%

The standard tune is way more oversteery and stiffer while mine allows cornering stability on all speeds. Cars with more weight to the rear seem to be set up too oversteery in general but you’ll notice a huge difference on the Senna.

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Back in the day, when dinosaurs roamed the earth, someone, maybe even affiliated with Forza, released a Tune Calculator for Forza 3 and another again for Forza 4. They were amazing in that they didn’t do ALL the work for you. You entered the vehicle you were working on, the stats for the vehicle, and the track and driving conditions you were tuning for and it calculated the best general tune for that situation.

Now, as everyone has different driving types, i.e. no 2 people drive the same way, these tunes were a starting point from which you would FINE TUNE your car to your preferred drivability. This put everyone in the same ballpark and made for some very competitive and FUN racing.

I wish they would put out one for the new games as they come out, as it would bring in a lot more competition. I have spent several as a mechanic and even I have some issues with the tuning style in the game.

It’s called “Forzatune 7” and is for Forza Horizon 4 and Forza Motorsport 7 :wink:

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Download the Forzatune 7 app. It will help you learn.

There is that option but there was a guide back in the day for drift tuners. The guide helps in a lot of ways but the main thing everyone can take away is how to balance a car. This helps reduce the roll of the car and I have used it for several years for both drifting and racing. If you want the full read, you can get it here :

http://web.archive.org/web/20130312174826/http://forums.forza.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

As far as not having to do the calculations for getting a car balance, I have put the information into a Google Spreadsheet for anyone to use. It is pretty simple and all you need to do is change the values as needed.

https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst144582_Tuning-Calculator.aspx

I could be wrong yet, but I don’t think Forza Horizon or Motorsport are as simple as calculating a balance, by human or machine.

You can’t learn how to tune just by looking at the end result in numerical difference either.
The easiest way is to read the descriptions in the game, followed by trial and error.

Pay attention to castor and camber, they’re connected and quite important.

I’m working on a tuning guide of sorts, but I’m still trial-and-error-ing a couple things yet.

I’ve been tuning for a good amount of time now, and I’d say the best place to start in tuning is to know what’s going on when you change the settings, and why things work.

Before I get into most of the meat, you’ll want to turn on the telemetry if you haven’t already in FH4. Telemetry gives you a lot of valuable information for tuning, so it’s an absolute must. Go to settings > controls, and you should see an option that looks like Anna/Telemetry, switch it to Telemetry. Once it’s set, then all you need to do is go out of the pause menu and press/hold down on the d-pad. The telemetry menu should pop up. Then if you press left or right on the d-pad you can look at the other menus.


Mostly everything involving handling involves improving tire compliance. You want the tire to have a good contact patch (The “footprint” of the tire, the amount of tire in direct contact with the ground), good downward load on the ground, and good temperature. And of course you need to keep the tires on the ground.

Tire Pressure
Since the tires are the only contact the car has with the ground, they’re obviously pretty important. You can’t have a functional tire without pressure. In Forza I don’t really ever touch the tire pressures much, I usually leave it at 30 psi. The only times I ever do change it is if the pressure difference between the front and rear wheels of the cars is different. When the tires are at operating temperature, they gain pressure. If the front tires are at 33.5 psi and the rear are at 32.2 psi, then I would decrease tire pressure in the front by 1.5 psi to try to equalize it. 32 psi is a good pressure at operating temperature for tires in Forza, so if your psi is anywhere above 33 psi or below 31, then adjust accordingly. But for the most part, cold tire pressure can be left alone.

Gearing
Gearing deals with how long or short your gears are. Cars with shorter gears have you shift a lot more and allow for more acceleration, while cars with longer gears shift less and have more speed. Choosing what’s right for your car depends on the amount of traction you have, the weight of the car, and the amount of power.

The most important thing about tuning gearing in Forza (In my opinion) is tuning first gear and final drive:
-First Gear: For tuning first gear, you want to get the most speed from a stop without bogging down (When your RPM drops down to around 1 or 2 thousand and your start is really slow) or losing all of your power to traction loss. The former means your first gear is too long (Geared too much toward speed), the latter means it’s too short (Geared too much toward acceleration). You’ll want to tune final drive first before you do this.
-Final Drive: For tuning final drive, you want to reach redline in your highest gear at your top speed. If your car uses 6 gears and a redline of 7,000, then you want the needle touching 7,000 RPM in 6th gear at top speed. I usually tune this on the highway along with tuning first gear afterwards.

You should tune the other individual gears after you tune first gear, because changing first gear will change 2nd gear, changing 2nd gear will change 3rd gear, and so on.

Another thing to note is the amount of gears you use. Race transmissions let you use 6 gears at the least, but 6 gears may not always be the best. You’ll want more gears for cars without a lot of torque, like little four cylinders or small Ferrari V8s. As for big, torquey HEMI V8s, it’s best to use 5 or even 4 gears with longer gears so they can use more of that torque.

(There’s a lot more but I’m too lazy to type it all down at the moment, but you can take a look Here.)

Tuning is one of those things like skinning a cat, there are 9 different ways to do it, all frought with varying results and all a different experience. None are right, and none are wrong, they are all just different. Having said that, the preamble is out of the way and we can get started on a good tune! Pick a great car, smash on your favourite upgrades, keep in mind a track that this car will be driven on. When you have your upgrades fitted, tune your tyre pressures first (as a rough guide, go for the best braking distance). After changing your tyre pressures to achieve the best braking distance, test drive it on your chosen track. During the test drive push down on the D pad and cycle through left and right on the D pad until you can view tyre pressures. You will likely see that after a lap your pressures are way up, so pause, go to the tune, reduce the tyre pressures so that your tyres are at the desired pressure whilst you are driving. Usually you can be within about 1/2 psi (a fart) of your desired pressures whilst driving, giving you optimal tyre pressures. Now, use this method to work on the rest of your car. Note, your laps should be improving in time as you tweek the car. When you are done come back to the tyre pressures again and follow this process to finish off your tune (as your car will be different from the start point). Good luck, enjoy your tuning.