If you use manual with clutch you lose very little time shifting. If you use no clutch or auto then clutch may be better.
I would love to see people’s laptimes during testing of a cam build and no cam build around one of the medium tracks.
Edit: a lot of the top tuners’ builds that I know of do not use cam, clutch or flywheel. There is a reason why they are quick - because they have tested various combinations and worked out what is best.
I would say first thing I do is upgrade the tires, then 2 way diff, then breaks. After that it really depends on the car and I try and avoid aero cause I find it upsets the look of most cars
Cam shaft depends on the motor… 90% of the time the cam shaft costs to many pi to get value. To test just build 2 versions one with cams one without. Keep the build the same except for the motor parts and most of the time the non cam motor will be fastest.
Best reasoning for this is the game uses speed as a main pi filler so if u can avoid putting speed in the car and just get power u avoid losing pi while going accel.
This is the way I have seen it - the cam does provide a noticeable performance increase (and for not too many credits) but hits you hard as far as PI is concerned - and it seems to be because of the rev range extending significantly.
Eduardo - which cars do the cams reduce torque?
I am not the best person to explain that - watch the torque curve when you add the cam.
Also a comparison of what a cam does versus say race displacement upgrade results in some differences.
The cam gets most of its hp gain from rev increases.
The displacement gets its hp gain from torque increases within the existing rev range.
So in comparison a cam results in less torque than other upgrades.
Swerve explains it well. Other engine upgrades help acceleration better than the cam does.
After that its seeing how much pi is left and i’ll put on
8. First or second tires (rarely if ever use race)
9. First or second weight reduction
10. Rear tire width
11. Lightest rims
12. Upgraded rim size
Next i’ll see what else I can fit on the car like
13. Intake/exhaust
14. Something other than exhaust that lightens weight if exhaust uses too much pi
15. Other rim size/engine upgrades or rear tire width to get to top pi
16. Brakes
17. Driveline
After testing i’ll consider:
Also as Worm has said,never use flywheels! Don’t believe him,check the 0 60 and 0 to 100 times,they will be slower adding flywheels.
And its simple with cams,they give you HP,but torque is what gets you moving. Cams may be good for a long high speed track but short to med tracks torque is your friend,not HP. And as Swerve said CF super charger is the way to go!
Race brakes, suspension, sway bars, diff and forza aero are the only parts I always use. 90% of the time I will also go full weight reduction. The only parts I never use are clutch upgrades and go-faster bodykit. I’ll also only ever use a flywheel when there’s no other way of spending leftover PI. The best motor parts imo are usually ignition and exhaust. The best bolt-on is usually the centrifugal supercharger if it’s available. Cams can work with some engine/transmission combos, but they are rarely called for and can usually be substituted by something better anyway. Everything else is up for grabs and depends on the car and class and what you’re trying to do with it. It’s always a juggling act between speed, acceleration, grip and handling.
I’m not great at upgrading or tuning, but I know a thing or two. My credentials can be found in most D and C class leaderboards, where I race 90% of the time.
I’ll start with the essentials, then I’ll list the Highly Recommended parts (stuff you need to get if PI can afford it), then the “Filler” parts, and then the no-no’s. (Avoid the no-no’s like the plague, war, and The Twilight Saga all combined.)
Brief summary for those that don’t want to read this: Overall competitiveness is determined by practice, power-to-weight and balance.
Essentials:
Highly Recommended:
“Filler” Upgrades (for filling up any discrepancy in PI):
Power:
Chassis:
Drivetrain:
Gearbox. (Use street or sport gearboxes if absolutely needed, and if the car is geared horribly (370z, as an example) then a racing gearbox is… Meh. If it ain’t broke though; don’t fix it. If the stock gearbox can reach the same top speed as a sport or racing gearbox can, then nothing else matters; not the amount of gears, not the lack of tuneability, not the slower shift times. Nothing. Sometimes, fewer gears is actually a pro, like when exiting an unstable high-speed corner when the limited power acts as traction control of sorts, while riding the meat of the torque band. You can spend the extra PI you saved on gearboxes too, on more PPOOOWWWAAAHHH upgrades, and more PPOOOWWWAAAHHH upgrades help boost top speed slightly and will make up that acceleration gap.
Driveline. (Filler, but lightweight rims do a better job. Use as a last resort.)
Tires:
Street, Sport, or Racing Compound Tires. (Generally not necessary unless you have an un-drivable 550+bhp on tap, with limited tire width upgrades. Traction control and or a steady finger can usually rectify this though, so it’s redundant 95% of the time. No excuses; if I can handle a 994 bhp C-Class Mercury Cougar Eliminator on 185 section tires, on 15 inch rims, without any assists, then so can you! Practice, practice, practice, all in the name of speed.
Rims. (Choose your rims as your last upgrades (unless you’re building a handling-focused car). Remember to choose function over form, and pain the rims a dark color to hide their terribleness.)
No-no’s (Avoid these upgrades like the plague, war, and the Twilight Saga combined):
Clutch. (The take a horrendous amount of PI for no performance gains whatsoever.)
Flywheel. (Worsens PI and performance.)
Oil Cooling. (Worsens the power-to-weight in every car it’s installed in.)
Street and Sport Suspension. (No adjustability, bad out-of-the-box setup for racing. Avoid at all costs.)
Street and Sport, Front and Rear Anti-Roll Bars. (No adjustabikity, bad out of the box setup for racing. Avoid at all costs.)
I’ve recently taken the plunge into FM5 and the XB1, and I had to change some of my build and tuning principles I developed in FM4. Before I get to that, builds and tunes are highly personal and at their best when tuned for the drivers ability and style. Some drivers like a looser oversteer natured tune, while some like a tighter grippier tune. Then there are those in between. It also really depends on the car. Some cars are naturally more compliant than others.
PSA: It probably doesn’t need to be said, but never use the auto upgrade function please. It’s like playing slots on a house rigged machine. It will take all of your credits and never pay out.
Here is my usual routine:
If I test drive the car first, what I am looking for is…
Once I’ve picked a car, I begin upgrading parts based on my initial testing. This list below is usually how it goes, but I will always move right to left while upgrading
Conversions:
If the car is going to need a conversion, I start here…
Race Aero:
Note: if a lighter hood is available, I will choose it as long as it looks good. For the other parts outside of hood, race front and race wing, I really only ever apply for looks. The PI loss/gain is negligible.
Tires & Rims:
Drive-train:
Suspension:
Engine:
These are in the order of how I usually apply the parts. This can vary depending on the PI headroom I have.
I could write a novel on building and tuning cars in FM4/5. Bottom line is it takes time to get it down. Especially when it comes to tuning.
Speaking of tuning, I use two things to get a a decent base tune along with some base settings I like to use for the alignment.
Best upgrade Drag tyre, oil cooler, intercooler, fly wheel, cam shafts, awd conversion, clutch, steet suspension,arb.
+1
Why? Seems to be most of the things that the remainder of the thread has generally agreed not to do.
Just a joke man… everything he listed don’t do
AKRA1X just wants everyone else to be slow so he wins more races lol