Hoping the Thrustmaster TX owners can answer these questions for me about the TX. I’m still waiting to see reviews on the Mad Catz wheel, but either way, I think either the Thrustmaster TX or Mad Catz wheel is in my future. I’m getting tired of using just the controller.
How do you calibrate the wheel and pedals? I understand it has to be done everytime you start a race (or at least the first race since connecting the wheel to the Xbox One)?
What are the pedals it comes with like? ISR seemed to think they were total crap. Are they at least useable.
What is the steering wheel like? It looks like it is crappy plastic and I don’t like how it isn’t round. I’d also rather have a generic wheel and skip all the Ferrari branding (and have the money spent on quality components). I know there are other wheels to buy (458 Challenge replica or F1) but don’t want to drop money on that.
How reliable is the TX and what is Thrustmaster like to deal with then the wheel breaks? The forums seem full of TX users who are on their second and 3rd wheel which concerns me for a $400 peripheral (as sold in Canada).
If I got a TX I would love the T3PA pedals, TH8A shifter but it will be like $800 by then which is way more than I want to spend. I’m really at the point where I am either going to sell my Xbox One or spend some money on a decent wheel and stand/cockpit. My wife and I have a baby coming so not sure how much time I will get in the future to make spending all this money worthwhile.
yes you have to go through a dance every time you use the wheel forza ,the pedals are a lot like the ms wheels cheap but they work very well,the wheel looks cheap but work very very well so much feed back much like the logetec wheel and ps3, not at all reliable 2 and a half months with me, thrustmaster’s was very helpful but in the end asked for refund from amazon, like you now waiting for madcatz
For Forza 5, just load up a race, do not hit gas on first race. When race starts hit brake pedal. Then quit race and carry on. You only need to do this once the first time of your session. So brake pedal is calibrated correctly with X1.
It calibrates the steering wheel itself.
Me personally, I don’t have a problem with the stock pedals it comes with. I love ISR, I know what Darin said about the stock pedals. I have no intention of buying T3PA pedals.
I did not like the stock wheel rim. I didn’t like how it felt when I drove. It’s in my closet. I bought both GTE & F1 rim. My personal favorite is the F1 rim. I just love how it feels. Both GTE & F1 rims are way better than stock rim. I got both from Amazon for $200 total. It’s worth the investment for one or the other.
I have a day one launch wheel. I haven’t had any problems with mine. Driven over 11 thousand miles & driven for over 124 hrs in game on tracks. I’m very pleased with the TX. Best wheel on market. Console & PC (can be used on PC).
Personally I bought Thrustmaster because I refuse to buy anything from Mad Catz. The brushless motors in TX are on point. The FFB & Vibration are strong. I am considering buying the TH8A shifter so I can do + & - shifting. With recent firmware update, we get auto clutch. I don’t need a clutch on my pedals for my TX. Most cars, especially race cars, don’t have clutches no more anyway. If I want to use a clutch, I got a 5 speed 80’s Nissan outside I drive everyday to work, round trip 100 miles. Paddle shifting with auto clutch is just fine for me.
As far as what people said with thrustmasters, when it worked it was fantastic. Like I said, no issues with mine & it’s been worth the $750 I’ve invested. The TX, both add on rims. Plus my Wheel Stand Pro V2.
I had to send my first wheel back I know some of the first batch wheels had problems. The first replacement was good for like 15 min the second one I got was great and have had zero problems with it. Customer service was great for me and it didn’t seem to take too long im kinda surprised I had 3 wheel bases before they even asked me to ship them back but that was super easy as well. Thrustmaster has great support and would buy from them even with the issues at launch from the tx wheel.
When the race count down begins push brake pedal all the way down and release,then just race,no need to restart.Works everytime for me,just be sure you do it during the count down!
Why do you need to do this? I’m not using the stock pedals but the brake seems to work fine. It can be a little inconsistent, but it was that way with the controller also.
It is to calibrate the pedals. I read some where you should do this,Mick,but can’t remember where. There is a little info on page 10 of the owners manual.
I actually think thrustmasters support rocks! My GTE wheel just had a sticking button, they had me send a video so I didn’t have to return the old wheel! So ill have spare parts too!
Well after waiting to see some reviews on the Mad Catz wheel, it looks like the TX is the way to go. I’ve purchased a cheap windows laptop so I can do updates on the wheel, and I am ordering a Thrustmaster TX. Hopefully mine has better reliability than others have had.
What does the 2-position Manettino switch (toggle switch on the lower right face of the wheel) do in Forza 5? Or is it only used on the PC?
We’ll got my Thrustmaster TX. Hooked it up to my PC and discovered it already came with the latest software installed. So obviously excited, I fired up Forza 5 to try it out. Set FFB and vibration each to 50 to start out. First race and not 10 seconds in and the wheel suddenly locks up. I could smell the electrical burning. I unplugged it and waited a bit but I can’t get it to turn on using either the PC or my Xbox. Really disappointed and wish I hadn’t forked out for this. Now I have a dead wheel and spent $200 CND to get a fanatech wheel stand for it. My advice is for everyone to avoid this piece of junk Thrustmaster calls a wheel. Wheel is going straight back to the store I bought it from. What a waste of time and money.
Returned it to the store and not getting another. Originally wanted to get a replacement but tech support was closed this morning despite both their voicemail and the user manual saying they are open during the times I was calling on Saturday. For an almost year old product that costs $400 it should be working fine out of the box.
I have just had the same experience. LITERALLY 2 minutes of use, couldn’t feel any FF, then smoke started pouring out of the top. Massively unimpressed.
I broke down and ordered a 2nd TX. Hopefully have much better luck with this one. I’ll let you know when I get it if it actually works for more than 30 seconds.
On my first TX wheel (with v47 firmware), I noticed that the degrees of rotation could not be set from the advanced controller settings menu, only from the wheel itself using the d-pad and mode button. Is this the way it is supposed to be or was this also an indication that something was wrong with the wheel? I thought in one of Inside Sim Racing videos on the TX they were adjusting this from the menu?
In the 3 minutes of experience I had before mine self-ignited I saw that there was DEFINITELY an ingame setting for DoR. It was at the very bottom of the advanced controller menu (where you set deadzones etc.). From what I read this option was added in an update so maybe your Forza isn’t up-to-date or something?