It’s a common problem for the in-game DoR setting not to respond to attempts to change it because there has been some issue with recognising the wheel correctly. Never start up the xbox using the wheel. I always launch the console from the button on the console itself and only connect the wheel once the dashboard is up and running. I also shut down the game fully before launching it by selecting the game tile, then pressing the menu/option button and selecting quit. The console settings option to not cache games for quick launch does not actually work.
1 Like
So I’ve been using my new TX for a few days without issue really. I was surprised the new wheel came with v45 software so I did the update. I could hear the fan right away the first time I plugged it in which was not the case on my last wheel. Other than occasional common issues of the wheel or pedals not being recognized it has worked flawlessly after resetting the xbox one. Not a fan of the TX wheel. If I can find a store that sells the GTE wheel in Canada I may pick one up. The stock wheel is a very odd shape and feels like Fisher Price made it. Glad I sprung for a second wheel as it certainly makes the game more enjoyable.
I mostly race with 540 degrees of rotation and 360 for race cars. I found 270 too quick for most cars, and 900 is near impossible to drive with. I always end up getting into a tank slapped as soon as the car steps out and can’t dial in the correct counter steer at 900 to avoid the crash. Guess I need to practice at 900 as that is probably the most realistic setting for road cars in the game.
I’m not a huge fan of the pedals either. They are usable, but the brake pedal certainly doesn’t have progressive resistance. It took a bit to be confident braking with it as it offers even less feedback than the controller (the controller at least has vibration on the triggers).