Since this new update cars break much harder, turn way too quickly with a lightly turn of the wheel, then it asks me to calibrate the wheel, then when I do it tells it cannot calibrate it. I take it they modified the steering once again? When I finally had it just perfect… 
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Have you rebooted at all since the game updated? Do that and try to calibrate again, and don’t forget to turn the calibrate reminder message off.
Check today’s news & release notes:
…New Steering Wheel Features in Update 20
This update adds new wheel features to Forza Motorsport, including steering wheel calibration and authentic car specific turns lock-to-lock. This will be most noticeable for race cars, which typically have fewer degrees of steering lock-to-lock.
Prior to this release, the default steering behavior was to use the full range of your steering wheel for all cars - which could be tuned globally in the Settings menu or per-car through the Tuning Setup menu.
With this release, now that we are accurately simulating steering sensitivity for each car, we needed to reset the user’s “Steering Lock Range” in the Tune Setup menu as well as the “Steering Sensitivity” in the Settings menu.
The default force feedback settings have been adjusted for most wheels as well. If you have already tuned your steering wheel settings, the new default settings will not overwrite your configuration. Check out the Advanced Wheel settings to calibrate your wheel for the best experience…
https://support.forzamotorsport.net/hc/en-us/articles/40947585151251
I am not too happy with this.
Cool that each car is individual, but now wheel users have to adjust every single car that they drive. That is a lot of extra work, especially for some wheels that really are poor with documentation and settings from the producer. Ahem Logitech G923.
Getting your wheel to handle decent, and then now having to tweak each and every car that you drive will be a chore, and I am almost positive that you cannot see the actual relation to what the car does for the change you apply.
I am thinking that you will have to go in and out of settings and telemetry a ton of times per car to tweak each car how you want it.
It would be great if in telemetry we could dial the slider up and down, as we turn our wheel in relation to the turning indicator in telemetry.
I’m not happy about the massive amount of work for all the cars I own. The added realism is kind of cool though.
So I am really torn if it is a worth while addition to the game, and how much it harder it will be for wheel racers to compete.
I’m confused with your response, the change they have made should now mean you don’t have to adjust your settings for every car, as GT cars will have a smaller lock to lock rotation compared to road cars, where as previously you would have had to reduce steering lock on GT and hypercars to make them feel better.
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With this release, now that we are accurately simulating steering sensitivity for each car, we needed to reset the user’s “Steering Lock Range” in the Tune Setup menu as well as the “Steering Sensitivity” in the Settings menu.
My takeaway from this is EVERY car will have a different baseline for it’s steering. Meaning your steering settings may be set on your wheel. But because each car is now different, you will have to tune each cars steering, to react how you want it to. So say a Ford drift mustang can hit 45degrees, a VW corrado could turn 38 degrees and the F333 could turn 30 degrees.
Now I have to go tune my settings so that each of them would feel correct with how I drive.
I never had to change a single steering angle on any car before.
I don’t see where you actually used it…
Try it first. You may be plesently surprised.
I’m on a Fanatec CSL-DD, and because of this update, I mostly do not have to touch a cars DOR (degrees of rotation) because the game does it for me.
Take the Cadillac V-Series R cars for example. Before this update I had to limit the steering to 65 - 70% depending on the track. That meant, if the car’s steering did not respond quick enough, then I had to open up the tuning menu and adjust it until it felt close to what I was expecting. Doing this threw the syncronicity between the onscreen steering wheel and my CSL-DD mounted wheel out of whack. Often the on-screen wheel turned a lot faster than the inputs I was making.
Another problem of adjusting the steering ratios on my own was if I got crossed up, I was often turning my wheel well beyond the useable range of the cars steering. In the Cadillac, the useable range was about 300⁰. If I turned 315⁰, the game would only give me 300⁰ and nothing more. On a hairpin, I would turn past the cars working range, and need to get back into that range, before I can then make a correction if needed. It was frustrating to drive a lot of the prototypes, because of this issue.
Since this update, the steering automatically adjusts to match the cars steering ratio. So, the V-Series R, now has 300⁰ of steering, and if I try to turn outside of thst 300⁰, the game tells my wheelbase to phycically stop turning in that direction.
The beauty of this is, I can now just set my wheelbase to a ridiculous DOR like 2080⁰ and then, simply calibrate it once. And after that every car in the game will have 1:1 steering because the game is setting its own softlocks and not basing turning ratios on what steering percentage I had to set for every car. Meaning a 2005 WRX STI can have it’s 1120⁰ of rotation and a Mazda Furai can have its 360⁰ and I don’t have to lift a finger when it comes to adjusting my wheel to match each car.
Also, it makes the cars feel a heck of a lot more communicative, responsive and more pleasurable to drive. So, calibrate your wheel, grab a car that felt like it was too slow to respond, and take it to the track. It may suprise you.
Edit notes: Spelling error and using my wheelbases actual maximum DOR.
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Just like Wilko said said, try it first without making any steering adjustments for a car. Do the steering calibration and take a few cars out for a test drive and see what you think.
I used to get really violent wheel oscillation or felt like my gt3 cars had a steering rack from a bus. Now I simply get in a car and drive and the steering feels correct for each car.
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I have a logitech pro wheel setup and I drove for about 6 hours yesterday, I think the steering feel is better than before and I had to tune a lot to get it to feel natural. Game is so good now as far as I’m concerned.
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If I’m understanding it right:
- SEN set to AUTO = Changes per car’s real setting.
- SEN set to 360 = 360 on all cars.
That’s basically how Soft Lock works in DiRT/WRC.
A manual number lets you be consistent in all cars but AUTO lets you use the real car’s setting which can be more fun/immersive.
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The exact opposite of this
I’ve had to make subtle to dramatic steering lock changes to each car prior to this update
I still have to post-update, but far less than before
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I assumed if someone has 900⁰, then if the car is less than that, the game would soft lock what it needs. If the car has more than 900⁰ the in the game would set the ratio to match 900⁰.
I could be wrong though.
I had this problem day one with my Moza wheel. It turned out that I had to reverse the force feedback in advanced settings. After this patch it appears that is no longer required and is causing problems. All I did was switch my force feedback back to normal and everything works.
Also, the buttons on the Moza R5 wheels now work but you might have to rebind some of the the keys. Then just save under a different name and presto!
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Depends on the base I guess.
With a direct drive you theoretically have infinite rotation, but with a belt driven wheel you are typically capped out at 900 or 1080.
For it to work correctly, you have to calibrate your wheel or set the degree of rotation manually in Advanced Input settings.
If SEN set to 360, you can set the degree of rotation to 360 or do the calibration
If SEN is set to AUTO, you should use the calibration unless you know what degree of rotation your wheelbase uses for AUTO.
The soft lock is applied in both cases.
This is exactly how it was explained by the developers in the insider’s forum, the soft lock is just the game sending FFB signals to prevent (as much as possible) further rotation at those break-points.
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Hello. I am also playing on Fanatec CSL DD, but on my base I set the Sensitivity (DOR) to AUTO. After the calibration in game (added with the latest update), I get the 1080 DOR on the slider bellow the Calibration option. In game driver view camera turning of the wheel is now matching actual turning of the wheel, but it seems to me that every car has now 360 DOR, I tried GT3 cars, LMP cars, regular cars and for me every car has the same degrees of rotation, at least it seems that way to me. I was expecting more difference between cars.
Should I maybe set Sensitivity to my Fanatec CSL DD base to 2520 (maximum), then calibrate the wheel?
You should be able to do either. I just set the wheelbase to auto, and you are correct, that is 1080⁰. Then I put the wheelbase on 2520⁰, and set the degrees if rotation to match, and there was no precievable diffrence. I am unsure why auto calibrate gives you only 360⁰? Right now I am in a '89 VW GTI, and it has far beyond 360⁰ of rotation… This is the wheel I am using. Not the on-screen steering wheel, which has limited animation.
I tried with max base setting of 2520 degrees and everything is fine. I think even on AUTO it was fine, but I was watching too much on hand animation in driver camera view which is not actual representation od the correct DOR. After calibration I tried few different cars and they all had a different degrees.
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Yeah. On our end, we cant do anything about the animations.