So I’m trying to make a replica of the Speedhunters Subaru BRZ (livery has an 86 on the door), it was featured on Leno’s garage. Obviously 300hp isn’t very beefy in game… So I’ve made mine just under 600hp. But I can’t get the tuning down. Would anybody know how to make a VERY grippy tune for this? I’m talking track car grip here; braking fast, accelerating fast, but with snappy turning. Even just a rough base tune would be appreciated!
Have you tried my build? I have a Toyota GT86 in A and S1 and the BRZ in S1. The two S1 cars are identical builds and identical tunes on almost identical cars. If you like them, I can assist you more in making something similar. If not, here are some suggestions to get you started.
I would try using a couple reference links provided courtesy of SpotTheKitty in his thread. Two great ones are [here](http://www.rapid-racer.com/suspension-tuning.php#Damping/ Bump and Rebound) and here.
300 HP can be more than you need if the weight is good and the handling is on point. I’m not sure what class you’re putting the car in and where you plan on racing it, but if there aren’t long stretches of highway you may not need all the extra power. Evenon a good portion of straight away in the game, you will lose ground but not necessarily get overtaken if you can handle the corners well. It’s not always about top speed, it’s about keeping your average speed higher than everyone else.
Which tyre compound do you plan on using? Which motor is in the car? What transmission did you settle on? Is the car going to be AWD or RWD?
There are several approaches you can take and what you settle on will depend on your driving style and which car feels best to you. My approach is try it all and then pick one. For rivals I go for fastest lap times. For online lobbies I go for fast but easiest to control and recover from crashes or screw ups.
Tyres: 28.0 / 28.0
Gearing: Engine and Transmission Dependent
AWD Alignment: Further left front camber than rear camber
Positive front toe. Experiment with rear toe - positive for cornering stability and negative for straight line stability
RWD Alignment: Further left rear camber than front camber
Positive rear toe for stability while cornering and maintaining the largest contact patch you can mid corner
Caster: If the car points where you want it to point but slides out front end first during turns, then lower it. If the car points where you want it but the rear end goes sliding out while the front pivots, raise it. If the car does not point where you want it to go, this is no the place to look to resolve the issue (yet).
Anti-Roll Bars and Springs: Here are a couple different combinations you can try - the numbers you’ll have to figure out for yourself though. They won’t always work out, and they may not work best for this particular build but they are a good place to start and see what you think of the car. A lot of times I will do this on a car-by-car basis depending on how it handles stock.
Low front ARB and Higher front springs combined with very high rear ARB and lower than you’d think rear springs
Mid-range front ARB with low-mid front springs combined with mid-high ARB and mid-level rear springs
High ARB with super low front springs and super high rear ARB with mid-high rear springs.
Rebound: This affects how the car turns and responds. It’s a single set up for both lo and high speed applications and I find it most obvious and clear in mid-corner at medium to high speeds. At low speeds you can get by with a poor setting here by adjusting elsewhere and still getting a good overall feel.
Bump: This affects how your car reacts going over bumps and when landing from the air.
Also, keep in mind. A tune is great but a great tune knows what not to touch. Don’t build the car and start messing with sliders right away. After your build is finished, jump out onto the open road and drive the darn thing a bit and see what you like, see what you don’t like. Sometimes you may fogo a base tune and tweaking altogether and just start doing tweaks on the fly. As you drive it, if you notice something is amiss, pause tab over to tune car and make changes to the one thing you dislike.
Hope this helps a bit.
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That may have been the most fun I’ve ever had tuning! It’s still a bit wonky, but I played with the HP and it’s now around 600hp AWD, and using the tips you gave me it’s a BLAST! Still some understeer in corners and spinning at high speeds… but I’m off to a good start thanks to you.
This should help a ton actually. This car has been driving me bonkers all day! It’s going to stay RWD, for circuits and sprints mostly, some realistic goofing around too. I think after looking at your advice I will go down to around 350hp and switch to a supercharger, turbo just spins the tires like no tomorrow! Thanks for the thorough explanation!
AWD will definitely get you more grip and control but you’ll have to tune in the response.
RWD will give you plenty of response but you need to tun in the control aspect.
I like superchargers for their linear power delivery and overall shenanigan-less behaviour though this comes more from the Motorsport side of things. There really isn’t a whole lot of problem with Turbos in Horizon 2 as long as you use them correctly. If you make a note of the torque curve during the build you should be able to clearly see where that power delivery spike is and where you will be facing turbo lag. As long as you keep the RPMs above that you don’t have to worry about turbo lag or a sudden jolt of power ruining your day.
What are your anti roll bars sert to in the front?
Whatever you set your front springs to, drop it by 10%.
Set your rear differential acceleration setting to 75% and the deceleration setting to somewhere between 10% and 20%.
Leave your torque split somewhere between 50 and 75% based on feel.
If it’s spinning at high speeds drop the rear ride height by one notch. If the ride heights are the same value make sure the rear is lover than the front. If the values are different, I’d settle for one or two notches to the left on the slider.
If it’s spinning on-throttle you may try lowering your springs UNLESS you like the car everywhere else and then I suggest you look at throttle control and steering input FIRST.
If it’s spinning off-throttle lower the rear Anti-Roll Bars or take a look at your caster - it may too high.
For the record, I used to have 2 A-Class Toyota GT8 builds (I still might have both shared but I think I deleted one). One has in the area of 300 - 330 HP and it’s like a baby version of the S1 car. It drives like a charm and I absolutely love it. The S1 version kills online and the A version is an amazing little car. Then, I made a second one with a V8 swap and in the range of 600 HP and the front was heavy, even with an identical tune to the low power version the car didn’t handle the same and in the end same driver, same course, the V8 swap was slower.
Try my A-class GT86 ad if there is still the V8 one shared - try them both.
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So I downloaded your GT86 tune and WOW. The handling is exactly what I’m trying to get on my BRZ, just with more horsepower haha. This tune is awesome! I wish you could see numbers on downloaded tunes to learn from them :o
If you could see the numbers on the tunes you downloaded there wouldn’t really be a need for downloading tunes, would there?
Which GT86 did you use? The A Class or the S1? I have the S1 as a BRZ if you have the paint for it…
As I asked, do you really need all that horsepower? I have a 22B as well in B Class that doesn’t have a tremendous amount of power but it carries a higher average speed through almost every turn compared to the cars others use online and that is why it wins with a two hundred horsepower deficit.
Don’t get me wrong, you do want power and I do like MOAR POWER but if you can’t have the car handle it, why?
Lol funny story, I just reverted my BRZ to stock because I want it closer to what your GT86 is. I eventually realized that the issue wasn’t my tune, it was sticking 500+ hp in a BRZ haha! I love the BRZ, but the sound of the spool on the GT86 is to die for! I’m now going with the 1.6L Turbo, and I’ll keep it around 350HP I think.
PS I downloaded the A Class tune, and it’s a winner 
370HP, handles pretty damn good. has trouble reaching top speed because I suck at gearing, but I’m happy with it. Thanks for the help PPi Drive!
That 1.6L Rally turbo tune is a beast and like I said, 370 HP is all it needs.
What is your top speed now? Remember, if you can maintain that higher average speed it doesn’t matter if the car tops out at 150 or 165 right? If for most of the race you can maintain 140 then some of those races that have a long, straight, stretch yes, you may lose some ground but you shouldn’t be over taken.
For the gearing: LEARN TO READ THE GRAPH IN THE TUNING SECTION! Ok, now that that’s out of the way…
Look up the Torque and Horsepower curves in the engine upgrades menu. Make a note or write it down.
Then, out in the game (you need to use manual clutch for this, even if you don’t race that way) find the redline RPM and rev limiter.
—> The Redline RPM is where the red line begins.
—> The Rev Limiter is where the RPMs stop increasing.
Now, for the real work. Leave the final drive ratio alone, that does not matter too much and it will come into place all on its own if you do the rest correctly.
Theory: the car pulls the most and accelerates the best at the maximum torque rpm. You want to shift so that after you’ve shifted up a gear you are slightly below this area of maximum pull. It helps to note the torque behaviour from the maximum torque region to the end of the graph. If it stays steady or has a mild decrease, shift at a higher RPM. If it decreases steadily and horse power does not increase shift at a lower RPM.
Gearing
1st gear: This one is tough but you’ll get it. Use the 0-60 and 0-100 mph settings to see how the gear affects the car. This gear will have a large impact on those figures. After all this playing around, you will need to set first gear at such a line that the second gear line is able to reach beneath the peak torque RPM.
2nd gear: Look at torque curve and find peak torque RPM. Now look to the left of peak torque RPM and notice graph behaviour. Set the lower limit of 2nd gear roughly up to 500 RPMs beneath peak torque RPM.
3rd gear: Ideally, you’d want all your gears to start at the same RPM but that won’t happen. The graph would look all funky and you’d notice it makes the car a little weird with really tall gears. In the end this wouldn’t work because you’d over compensate with the final drive ratio and the car would’t behave as well as you’d like. Set this roughly 150 RPM above the 2nd gear minimum.
4th gear: Again, about 100 RPMs above the 3rd gear minimum.
5th gear: 100 RPMs above 4th gear minimum.
6th gear: Are you doing the math? 2nd gear started 500 RPMs beneath the peak torque RPM. Then we crept up by 150, 100 and 100 so we’re still 150 RPMs beneath that peak torque RPM. Set this one 100 RPMs above the 5th gear minimum. This way regardless of which gear you are shifting into, you are always taking advantage of the engines strong spots.
Final Drive: Adjust based on speed or accel needs.
For the 1.6L Rally Turbo this may be tough as with Turbo boost and all the engine has peak torque super super low and then it declines steadily. It’s not a perfect strategy either, more of a simple guideline to get an understanding for it. I’m no gearing expert but I’ve found that I’m doing enough to make my cars driveable and so far, fairly quick. I also use assistance from reference links in SpotTheKitty’s threads and a gearing calculator to verify. I am attempting to do more and more on my own.
Tomorrow - either in the morning if I have time or after work - I’ll jump into the A800 GT86 and we;ll break the gearing down. I’ll see how close it is to the guidelines I mentioned above and we’ll look at some numbers and go from there. I do now that car was done a while back with a calculator so we’ll see…
GT86 A-800 AWD
Peak Torque: ~1400 RPM
Peak Horsepower: ~6400 RPM
Redline: 6500 RPM
Cutout: 7000 RPM
1st gear: Tops out around 40 mph
2nd gear: Starts around 3200-3300 RPM (~65 mph)
3rd gear: 3800 RPM (~88 mph)
4th gear: 3950 RPM (~111 mph)
5th gear: 4100 RPM (~139 mph)
6th gear: 4300 RPM (~167 mph)
Using the information above you should be able to find a good final drive. Mine is set towards the speed side of things but still fairly near the middle of the slider somewhere. As I said, this engine doesn’t really work out for my little theory I listed above because the Peak Torque is delivered so early. The engine is turning out 332 LB-FT at 1400 RPM and by the time it gets to 6400 RPM it’s dropped to only right under the 250 LB-FT mark (you could use telemetry and be more exact but meh…)
RUF CTR2 S!900 AWD
Peak Torque: ~4800 RPM
Peak Horsepower: ~5800 RPM
Change in Torque Slope: ~3400 RPM
Redline: 6800 RPM
Cutout: 7200 RPM
1st: 3.46
2nd: 2.23 (starts at ~3200 RPM)
3rd: 1.65 (starts right under 4k RPM)
4th: 1.31 (~4400 RPM)
5th: 1.08 (~4600 RPM)
6th:0.92 (~4800 RPM)
Then space them out with the final drive as you see fit for acceleration or not.
Using your theory, my top speed says 199MPH but after driving on the highway there’s no way I can hit that. So I messed around more on acceleration and lowered my top speed, and I don’t know if it’s an issue with the car or my gearing, but as soon as I get into 4th, acceleration starts crawling lol. it’s probably something I’ve screwed up 
This car has turned into quite a project
The theoretical top speed doesn’t mean you will hit it. It doesn’t matter much anyway because I’ve yet to find an actual race that takes you north of 180 mph for any reasonable highway stint.
Looking at both the cars I shared above, I notice that the difference between the start of 2nd gear and the 6th gear is closer to a 1000 RPMs more so than the 500. That 500 RPM gap is closer to the 3rd and 6th gear difference.
If you do have a gearing set up that works for you and it’s neither achieving it’s benchmark top speed nor is it accelerating quick enough you can always move the final gear ratio slider towards acceleration. If you can’t hit the top speed then what’s the point of having the gearing for it?
Have you tried this video HERE courtesy of MoneyMan3000?
Potentially even better - check this thread out.