Some of my tunes and a bit how to

The 1966 Chevrolet Nova SS is a good starters car to practice basic tuning. I`ll give my setup as a template, no copyright. Moore tunes will follow, different car-types like rear-engined, FWD or 4WD. Notice that these basics can moore or less work on other simular cars, the 66 Nova-setup is a base for most front-engine RWD cars even if spings/dampers needs to be adjusted for heavier cars.

Ok, the 66 Nova. To do a tune youll need a racesuspension, adjustable ARBs(antirollbars) a sport- or racegearbox and sport/race differencial. ARB`s needs to be stiffened when you improve tiregrip, to handle the g-force.

Gears: Maxed V10T: 3.0 - 2.50/1.75/1.25/1.00/0.85/0.75
Maxed stock V8: 3.0 - 2.70/1.89/1.49/1.10/0.92/0.80
Allignement: 1.2/0.8 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5 (this is a good basic setup for most front-engined cars, use telemetry to finetune)
ARB: 20.0/20.0 (was 22.5, softened to make the Nova ā€œcome aliveā€)
Springs: 60.0/60.0
Rideheight: F22.4 - R15.2
Dampers: Rebound: F14.5/R14.5
Bump F4.8/R4.8
Brakes: no adjustment
Differencial*: 55/50 - or when AWDed; 0.0/0.0 - 55/50 - 100=100%RWD Notice how much better grip a 100% RWD or FWD car has when "AWDed". Strange physics they`ve made.

This setup runs good with both a maxed (incl. turbo) stock V8 or a maxed V10. Might be a bit wild/soft with a maxed V12.

Hope I haven`t forgotten anything, just ask if…

Next, playin`with a 1983 VW Golf GTI

Two versions, first has a maxed stock engine. Added everything exept no oilcooling & sport flywheel to keep it inside A800. Sport brakes, sport chassie improvment(stabilizers) race weight.
Street tires, F215, R235. Converted to AWD and then set to 0%=100%FWD

Gears: 3.75 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80
Allignement: F 1.2/ R.08 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5
ARB: F22.5 R22.5
Springs: F45.0 R45.0
Height: F22.5 R21.5
Dampers: F4.9/14.5 R4.9/14.5
Aero: F80 R150
Diff: (AWD) 55/0 0.0/0.0 0%=100%FWD

Put in a maxed rally-engine and the rabbit really runs. Everything maxed, race tires. Still F215 R235 to balance the car. Needs some small adjustmensts:

Gears: 3.30 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80
Allignement: F 1.2/ R.08 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5
ARB: F31.0 R33.5
Springs: F42.0 R41.0
Height: F21.0 R20.0
Dampers: F45.2/14.8 R5.2/14.8
Aero: F80 R180
Diff: (AWD) 55/0 55.0/55.0 80% (to the rar tires)

The Corvette C8, hotted stock engine first.
Basicly, this setup will fit most rear engine cars*, only springs/rideheight might need adjustments.

Gear: 3.08 rear, 2.70/1.85/1.40/1.10/0.90/0.76
Allign 1.2/0.8 0.0/0.0 5.5
ARB 38.0/40.0 (40/44 with race v12)
Springs 65.0/72.0
Damping F4.8/14.0, R5.0/14.8
No aero (race version=F145 R130)
Brakes not adjusted
Diff F: 0/0 - R: 55/50 - 100% rear, F55% + 65-82% rear makes a good 4WD

Racetires maxed, track widt maxed F/R

  • like f.ex Porsche`s, Toyota MR2…

How to make the 1965 Mini Cooper run, a D-class first.

D tune: Engine: sport exhaust, street engineblock, race compression. Race suspension & F/R ARB`s, sport weightreduction, sport transmission, sportsdifferencial. Vintage racetires, F:185, R:225
Weld Racing wheels does it!

Gears: 3.43
ARB: F:8.02, R:7.98
Springs: F:38 R:36
Height F:13.3 R: 13.0
Dampers: F: 4.2/8.4 R: 3.9/8.4
Diff: 55%

C tune, same setup but use widebody kit: Engine: Race carburetor, race exhaust, sport cam, race compression(103Kw) Race suspension & F/R ARB`s, sport weightreduction, sport transmission, sportsdifferencial. Vintage racetires, F:235, R:245.

Maxed turbo stock engine (S825): Turbo, AWD, widebody, removed bumpers, racetires F:235/R:245. race transmission, clutch, driveline & diff. Engine maxed exept sport oilcoolel, no intercooler.

Gears: 3.30 275/185/135/105/90/80
ARB F:9.02 R: 7.98
Springs F:30 R: 28
Height 12/12
Dampers 4.4/14.0 4.2/14.0
Diff: 55/0 0/0 0 = 100% FWD

My JanSpeed design fits good

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1982 Porsche 911T S1 grip tune

is a cheap plain Porsche with a potential. Swap to AWD, add another turbo (!) and convert it to a widebody.
Then give it racetires, maximun widt front/rear and I ended up with BBS-wheels to match the PI.

Race gearbox, race diff, race brakes, suspension, ARB`s & raceweight.

The engine: Race airfilter, exhaust, cam, valves, block, compression & turbo. Sport flywheel. This should give 433KW & 1095kg.

(( Alternative: 3.6F6TT engine, give it race exhaust, race block, sport turbo and you have 451Kw-1113kg. Reduce to sportbrakes to end up at S900 ))

Gears: 3.85 - 2.99/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80 (3.30 if 3.6F6TT)
ARB: F: 28.36, R: 32.83
Springs: F:45.0 R:55.0
Height: F:19.2 R:18.2
Dampers: F:4.8/12.0 R:5.2/14.5
Aero: F:100 R:190
Differencial: 55/0 - 56/50 - 55%

Doing this will give you a tamed racer!

1997 Nissan GTR V-spec S1-tune

Maxed stock engine exept for sport ignition & flywheel. Stock brakes, race suspension & ARB`s. Race weight, sport clutch, race tranny, stock driveline, race diff. Race tires max width. Wings F & R.
This should give you 496Kw & 1247 kilo.

Gears: 4.20 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/116/94/78
Allignement: F:1.2 R:0.8 0/0 5.5
ARB: F:33.47 R:38.07
Springs: F:52.0 R:50.8
Height: F:16.1 R:15.8
Dampers: F:4.8/14.4 R:4.8/14.4
Aero: F:100 R:190
Diff: 55/0 56/50 60%

I ended up driving it around the whole map, enjoying the balanced racer. Another drivers tune!

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Taming the wild Morris Minor - a good & realistic C-class tune. No wings or awd here, just removed bumpers :sunglasses:

Add turbo, racetires, F:185/R:195 Mickey Thomson ET drag wheels is a good match. Remove bumpers. Sport gearbox, sport diff. And off course, race suspension & ARB`s.

Engine: Sport air, race carburetor, race ignition, street cam, race valves/block/comp/turbo/intercooler, sport oilcooler, street flywheel. Adds up to 122Kw or 163hp.

Gears: 3.43
Allignement: F:1.2 R: 0.8 0/0 5.5
ARB: F: 7.71 R: 7.24
Springs: F: 45.0 R: 45.0
Height: F: 23.5 R: 22.2
Dampers: F: 4.8/8.4 R: 4.8/8.4
Diff: 55%

This is a ā€œdrivers setupā€ with good realistic handling. It can win races too but rwds has allmost no grip in tgis game so heres a AWD-setup:

Race gearbox, set to 3.30. Race diff set to 0/0 55/50 100 =100% RWD
Reduce engine by adding sport airfilter & sport exhaust.

Even if the car is heavier now, is still RWD and has a bit less power it will be a lot easier to win races in. But nearly not as fun to drive as the RWD-setup :wink:

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Class C 1963 Opel Kadett Rallye

Played with this tiny Opel to se what it could do as a class C racer. Ended up beeing wery funny little racer, perfect on closer tracks but not a top-speed champ.

To get some grip I converted it to AWD but running it as 100% RWD. Added turbo, vintage racing-tires, Mickey Thomson ET Drag wheels fits the old Opel perfect.
Track-widt widened step 1 F & R. Tirewidth F:165 , R:185 gives good balance & turn-in.

Race clutch+gearbox & differential, Rallye suspension, race ARB`s F & R. Street chassis & street weight. = 1607Lb, 729kg

Engine: Street intake, sport carb, race ignition, race exhaust. Stock cam,race valves, race block, race compression, race turbo, race intercooler, stock oilcooler, sport flywheel. = 152hp

Gears: 3.75 - 2.85/1.89/1.34/1.00/0.82/0.72
Allign: (as usual) F:1.2 R:0.8 0.0/0.0 5.5
ARB: F: 8.84 R: 8.00
Springs: F: 90.3 R: 90.3
Height: F:10.3 R: 10.3
Dampers: F: 4.0/6.8 R: 4.0/6.8 (bump/rebound)
Brakes stock
Differential: 0/0 55/45 100% rear = RWD but with reasonable grip

The setup is soft and will do well in rallying as well. Adjust the diff and it is an AWD. Feels like riding a hotted-up stock old car, you`ll get sea-sick in the back-seat but it handles wery well.

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To SumoElch7625477 and whoever might want some A-class JDM racers

1997 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC: 641 613 658

As usual from me, kind of an all-round circuit-tune but this can be raced. Hard! One of my test is a speed-zone and this one has the record(so far). Notice how I set up the gearbox.
4th-5th-6th gears comes close to make them usable in hot racing. Im using a controller & manual w.o clutch. When Im approaching a bend at 6th gear, instead of braking Ill just shift down to 5th. Thats enough to get the weight moved forward in a well balanced setup

1992 Honda NSX-R : 760 082 419
widebody: 259 701 953

1993 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC : 390 062 571 (wide)

1997 Mazda RX7 widebody: 113 200 864

1998 Toyota Supra RZ: 176 672 120 or 117 877 758

1995 Toyota MR2 : 124 088 177

Some racetunes, first the

1990 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc A-tune. Stock engine, AWD`ed but set to 100%RWD.

Camaro code: 109 401 546

1970 Buick GSX S1-tune. Stock engine, AWD`ed to ca90%RWD.

Buick code: 507 167 106

Playground thinks that the ā€œbig blockā€ Buick engine are about 200kg heavier than
the Chevy 6.2L but they are so wrong again. Buick, as well as Oldsmobile and Pontiac`s
455cui engine are about the same weight as a small block Chevy. And same size.

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Classic sportscar Class D easy win; 1958 Austin Sprite: 122 476 670

  • updated, final version now??
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:vertical_traffic_light: please continue :+1:t3:

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Thanks! I`m having fun with classic musclecar-tunes these days, working on a B700 heat. Trying to give them a kind of ā€œrealisticā€ handling, like a worn
weekend-warrior would handle after some tuning & upgrades. vintage tires, max 245/295, no weight reduction.

Lots of work behind this kind of tunes, every parameter plays a part in the final result. A bit too much bodyroll could be eliminated by increasing the swaybar a
notch, but that might make the front end to understeer or the rear to slide insteasd of leaning & gripping. Tiregrip, bodyroll, ARB`s, springs & shocks (dampers)
must be harmoniced.

Testdriving the tunes around the Goliath against the not so unbeatables. Even if these old classics is a handful to drive they`re surpricingly fast arond the map.

Finished so far:

1964 Checrolet Impala code: 727 406 754 (try it!)

  • updated Impala, now we`re talkin: 136 090 091

1970 AMC Rebel code: 135 384 236

1965 Pontiac GTO code: 260 695 059

Try them & have fun!

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Adding a few moore musclecars! Despite their bodyroll & soft suspension they`re still pretty fast
Have added a front spoiler on some of these, just for the right look. It is turned down to minimum…

1970 Buick GSX code: 159 733 090

1969 Oldsmobile 442 code: 133 483 633

1970 Mercury Cougar code: 133 667 142

1970 Chevrolet Chevelle code: 136 487 696

These are not ment to be compatible but they still are, almost…

1957 Plymouth Belvedere code: 801 766 092

1952 Hudson Hornet code: 471 619 459

The Huson is given a transmission based on Fords C4 automat+a 0.80 overdrive Thats 2.48/1.48/1.00/0.80 and a 3.0 rear. It doesnt really need the overdrive to reach its top speed
but it just feels right to cruise this tourque-engine on low revs. A close-ratio 6 speed here would kill the ā€œfeelingā€

Any kind of feedback is welcome! Any requests?

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Belvedere?

Never was much of a ā€˜car person’ (at least not until FH3) and originally I gravatated to modern saloons, sports cars, etc, basically contemporary vehicles… and detested anything old and boxy (think: '67 Ford Falcon XR GT), dismissing such as dull and archaic. It wasn’t long, however, before muscle car/70’s/80’s nostalgia started kicking thanks to FH3’s AMC Pacer X barn find and now that’s largely all that I am interested in! Classic-anything, 60’s-80’s, the lower the PI class, the better. I would happily trade in 15 of my S2 StarTrek cars for that old, boxy Falcon; 20 to get my un-boxy Pacer back! I’d also like to see a few more smaller, mid-size muscle cars introduced like the Chevy Vega and Ford Mustang II King Cobra (or re-introduced, rather) to compliment the Holden Torano and AMC Hornet.

So, I do appreciate the sharing of your work, very much so. I haven’t gotten around to trying any yet, but those D-class tunes will be first in line. (AMC fan, too, so any AMC tinkering in any class gets extra appreciation :ok_hand:t2:)

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I really like your tunes, I’m using them and your tips to get the hang of it myself.

I tried the Chevelle and it drove quite nice indeed!

Currently I’m trying to make the Alpine A110 work as a b-class rally racer but I can’t get it right somehow, maybe you can take a look at it?

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Those B-class classic muscle setups in post 13 & 14 are what I call roadkill-tunes. Not tuned for max
performance but for fun. But they are surpricingly fast too, the unbeatables are easily beaten arond the
Goliath. The 70 Chevelle that usually handled like a cheese is kind of hot in this version. Even the
64 Impala can do turns with a well balanced setup.

These kind of setups is in another league than anything made by tunecalculators. There is no way to
calculate a precise tune, calculations will be way too unprecise. These old cars are tuned to a level of
precision where I do not want to stop driving them, they feels so right that I could drive around for hours.

Not too easy to come up with anything ā€œgood enoughā€ for the 1973 Alpine 110 in B-class. Easy in
C & A-class but not in B. Here is what I came up with.

First, has to be AWDed in this game. Then turboed. 14" rear wheels (stock) vintage racetires, 195/215. Bumpers removed, sport rear wing. Rally suspension, race ARBs.
Engine block maxed, compression too. Street intercooler & oilcooler, sport flywheel. Light flywheel +
fast clutch combined with a close ratio gearbox is a good way to compensate a weak engine.
And a must in rally.

This should give 150KW & 767Kg.
Gear ratio 4.20, ARB`s 18.56/22.01, springs 32/42, height 13.8/13.3. Dampers F:3.0/12.0, R: 5.4/14.5.
Diff: F: 55/0 R: 55/50 C(enter): 58

While Im on it, my C-class setup: 165/195 vintage race tires, rally suspension, race ARBs, race diff. sport valves-compression.
ARB`s 8.40/8.41, springs 30/32, height 14.0/13.7, dampers F:3.6/6.6 R: 4.0/7.6. Diff 55/50.

Codes: C: 565 876 891 B: 169 085 479 A: 172 550 118

And my 2015 A110 A-class road setup. Just slammed this together to try out the car,
one small adjustment and we have a racewinner: Code 559 934 013

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2002 Nissan Gt-R V-SPEC II A-class roadracer

Did just a quick tune for this one to fit the weekly challenge but it turned out to be so much fun to drive
and so capable too that I`ll chare it. Ended up with two versions, one in raceweight that might be the best
allrounder but the one in sportsweight still handles well and outspeeds most other driveable A-class cars.

Mods: Forza F & R wings, Work XD9 wheels; 19" rear. Stock tires, 285 F & R. Race tranny & diff, race
suspension & ARB`s + Race weight, ca 1240kg

Race exhaust, sport cam, race block, sport flywheel (=quick engine resonse to fit a quick gearbox)
=337kw 491nm
Steet cam, race block+sport turbo & flywheel = 350kw & 539nm

Settings:

Gears 4.60 - 289/199/149/116/095/082 -notice how Im closing in a bit on 5th & 6th Allignement: 1.2/0.8-0/0-5.5 ARBs: 22-0/22.0
Springs set to minimum, 52.5 F & R
Height F:19.8 R: 19.5
Aero: 100/130
Diff: 55/0-55/50-55

The key to everything here is the suspension, tires, aero & diff-settings. It gives the car a good
balance & makes it very responsive.

The heavier sportsweight version ends up ca.200kg heavier but has a bit more power.

My first version: street intake,sport exhaust, sport cam, race block, sport turbo &/ sport flywheel.
= 397kw & 579nm to move 1429kg. The sportscam gives the engine a long powerband.

Second version, focused 100% on tourque here = acceration.
street intake, race fuelsystem, race block, race comp, race turbo, street flywheel.
399kw & 651nm now, but it feels a bit moore sluggish since the heavier flywheel reduces enegineresponse.
Gears was set to 3.43 rear, opened 5th & 6th to stock 0.94 & 0.78 = 297km

While this soft setup fits the stock tires a moore grippy & powerful S1-tune will need to be a bit stiffer.
Just that is what tuning is about, to try out and learn what it takes with different cars. But the lower classes
is the place to start.

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Just wathced grandma/ISAD race a 2001 acura Integra A-class setup and got inspiration.
Hotted up my own b-class tune and ended up with this: 827 959 612
A bit better than the tune ISAD raced., try and compare!

Basicly the same as I did with the Golf GTI over…

Edit:
Oops, it has a rear wing. Stock wing: 487 957 511, not even a stock wing: 512 382 340. Still surpricingly stabile these!

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Playing with the 2000 Nissan Silvia spec-R

First, a simple RWD A-tune based on stock engine.
Gave it a Ings front, West wing, West rear & Nismo sideskirts.

Stock tires maxed F/R, step 1 widened, the ā€œlastā€ Work-wheels.
Racing gear+diff, sport driveline. Rally suspension (lighweight car=soft setup) Race ARB`s, sport weight

Engine: Race air, fuel, exhaust, block, compression & turbo. Sport ignition & flywheel
= 329Kw, 486Nm, 1118kg

This gives good tourque but a rather narrow powerband, a good match to the quick-shifting 6sp gearbox.
And the sport flywheel makes the engine fast revving & responsive to match up.

Setup: gears 3.55, first is ā€œopenedā€ to 2.89*, 6th is shortened to 0.80. * to reduce takeoff-wheelspin
ARB`s 14.40 F/R, springs 22.9 F/R, rideheight F: 19.8, R: 19.5. Dampers F: 3.8/9.0, R: 3.9/9.0. Diff: 56/50

This is a good basic setup, the soft suspension matches the light car & the tiregrip.

S1-Widebody racetune

First; 3.2L I6 engine, turbo, AWD, bodykit. I gave it a West-wing and some OZ-wheels.
Racetires maxed F & R. Race gearbox, driveline & diff. Street brakes (lightweight car)
Race suspension & ARB`s, raceweight reduction.

Engine: Race ā€œeverythingā€ exept sport cam & flywheel, stock coolers
= 475Kw, 660Nm,1059kg.

Setup: gears 3.75, 2.89 1st, 0.80 6th. ARB`s 30.0 F & R, springs 52/50, rideheight
17.1 F & R. Dampers 4.8/14.0 F & R. Diff 55/0, 55/50, 55

Simple as that. Soft enough to make it handle but still in control, even in +300km/h
A stiffer setup will understeer & mask most of the ā€œinformationā€ from the road.

The diff-setting makes it a ā€œfull AWDā€, the frontwheels will pull it through the
corners. More power to the rear & it will handle more like a RWD.

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