I am new to Forza and racing in general, and have been using others tunes for the most part. My biggest issue with RWD (I use a wheel/pedal setup) is that most tunes, and even stock, per the limiter 1 second after you hit the gas and they spin out badly…I prefer to not have traction control. Since my tunes generally suck, are there tuners who specialize in RWD that does not have such aggressive low gear tunes or can give me tips on how to tune this myself…I hate going around a corner, drop to 3rd or 2nd and then spin out…not sure how to tune the power bands to be aggressive but not overly…feathering the pedal does sorta work, but it is difficult, 1mm too much and corner lost…or should I just convert everything to awd?
I’m no expert, and i’m relatively new to Forza as well, but so far, i’ve learned a fair bit about tuning from youtube videos.
First off, high performance RWD cars DO take a lot of practice to tame them. You often need to correct a rear end slide before it even happens. The longer you spend with a specific RWD car, the more likely you are to develop a feel for it, so you’ll be able to predict when it wants to kick out, and you’ll be prepared for it.
With the actual tuning, I’ve found the following things work for me:
Engine and Drivetrain - Pay attention to the engine power while you’re doing your upgrades. The higher the power output you end up with, the more you’ll need to think about gearing to take some of that aggressiveness away from the bottom end. Power is good, but not if it means you’re gonna still be sat at the start line shredding your tyres while your competitors are halfway around the racecourse. Go for a transmission option which allows you to tweak the gear ratios, and dump some of that engine power into the mid range/top end. Start with you Final Drive ratio. Give the car a test run. Rinse and repeat until you get the result you’re looking for.
Suspension - Correct suspension tuning helps your car stick to the tarmac. The wrong setup will cause over/understeer; sloshy handling; or skittish while cornering. You’ll need to know your car’s weight distribution and do some maths. For this reason, I suggest watching Hoki Hoshi’s youtube video on tuning. The suspension section starts at 6:30 in, and it seems to work for me every time: Forza Horizon 4 How To Tune | Basics Guide - YouTube It’s really easy to do, and once you’ve done it a couple of times and tested the results, you’ll find yourself applying this formula to all of your modified cars.
Tyres - More rubber in the sidewalls means looser handling characteristics on many cars. Go for the widest tyres you can get on the rear, and go for wider than standard on the front. Also, change your stock tyre compound to Sport or Race, depending on what you intend to use the car for. Sport is great for all round fun, but Race compounds heat up much quicker and can overheat if pushed too hard, causing a loss of traction.
Track Width - Increasing track width on the rear will help with handling immensely. You don’t necessarily need to max it out, but the performance briefing at the left of your screen should give you some idea of how well the car will handle with this upgrade. Increasing the front track width will help with cornering too, especially under braking.
Downforce - You want to keep those big rear tyres on the ground. If your stock spoiler/wing is no longer sufficient, choose an adjustable option. Take your time making adjustments to it. Too little downforce will make handling tricky at high speeds. Too much, and you’ll lose several figures from your top speed. Add/increase downforce on the front of your car if the steering feels light or unresponsive at high speed.
Lastly, get to know the car. Be smooth with the controls and learn whereabouts in the rev range the power kicks in, and then get a feel for it so you can use it to your advantage. When you get to know your RWD car, you’ll find yourself having a ton of fun in it!
Hope this helps you get started. Good luck!
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Lengthen the first few gears. If you never have a reason to downshift ti 2nd something is up. Lower the diff settings. Usually >60 for a class, 60 to 65 in s1 and 65 and above for s2. Reduce camber. Usually at 5 caster less than 1 degree camber is needed and at 6.5 caster .5 camber is usually good. If you need a tune I can make one.
Drive better. Dont downshift so quickly, or blip the throttle as/right before you downshift and this wont happen. This is happening because the revs arent matched, being in manual w clutch it does not rev match for you. Or you could switch to manual, this will help the issue a little but its really a driving fault that you are trying to tune out.
Also with a downloaded tune u can not edit it. But part of the gears being this way is because the pi system is junk, with the junk pi system a build takes a big hit from changing the gearbox so in most cases the pi points are better used elsewhere and you just deal with the stock gearbox.
If you just want a quick tune:
Ride height: 0,2 above minimun
Differential: Acceleration: 90% - Deceleration: 80%
Tire pressure: Front: 28,0 PSI - Rear: 27.5 PSI
^ No thats terrible.
Decel that high would make car not turn off throttle, accell that high would make car only drift out of corners. Even with a great spring setup this would be terrible diff settings on 90% of cars.
I tune a lot of RWD:s and I tune the gears to prevent the sort of problems you’re describing.