I’ve played horizon 2 and now 3 but still don’t understand what’s the best things to tune if you want grip or a drift car or a drag car or good Corning…and how much to tune those things and what some things truly effect…and any expamples would help…I have watched a few videos on tuning but still don’t get what to do exactly like making my super cars being able to handle slight curves and turns with out losing traction aka have good Corning and down force…there are some things I do, do thinking they are helping but am not sure…is anyone nice enough to help a fellow racer?
Cornering? Um, anyway…
The best way to start is to find a good tuning calculator. There are three or so of them and they’re all good, but nothing out there equates to an "easy-button’.
On the other hand, what they do help with is getting a good new base tuning; to handle the upgrades you put on and the changes they made to the weight distribution/downforce/handling/etc… From there, you really only need to make minor adjustments for driving style and gear tuning. Gears are easy: just take a mental picture of your engine’s power curve and make sure your gearing jives with the power-band. You should be close from there, just get the numbers where you like them on the read-outs and give it a few test runs.
The best way to start is forget about tuning until you have learnt how to build cars to suit their application. The best way to learn is by experimenting with the build to give different levels of grip and power.
A good start would be to download some setups with varying levels of grip, drive them all and see which suits you best, then try to build a similar car yourself.
The build is at the end of the day far more important than the tune settings you use. Add grip by increasing tyre width and/or changing tyre compound and adding aero until you feel you have enough before adding more power. Take note of how the parts you add to the car affect the Speed/Handling/Acceleration/Launch/Braking stats. When you’ve built a good car you can then start thinking about adjusting some of the settings.
updated copy pasta from my HOON tunes thread
I thought I’d share my upgrading and tuning process.
A few rules of thumb for upgrading tuning.
Always do a AWD swap, you wont be competitive without it.
If you are doing A or S1 class, try using the 6.2 liter V8. You might get more out of it than the V12.
You want the turbo conversion if you can get it. Note that you can try using a twin screw or centrifugal supercharger instead of turbos if you need a bit more PI room. You might want to re work the gears though, since the torque comes in later in the power band.
Engine upgrades in order of importance; turbo, displacement, cams, exhaust, pistons, fuel, ignition, intake, valves.
Almost-Never buy the intercooler or oil as they tend to cause understeer. *In cases where the car already had an intercooler or the added weight actually helps the weight distribution%, it may actually be a worth while upgrade. Look carefully. The fly wheel costs too much PI and I rarely pick it up.
Always buy the following; Race suspension, Race anti roll bars front and back, race diff, AWD swap, maxed rear tire width.
Try to get; Race trans, sport stiffening, race weight, aero front and back, turbo conversion
ONLY buy the roll cage and upgrade front tire width IF you have left over PI. (sometimes buying the cage will make it worse, look carefully)
The biggest PI increase in the world is tire compound. Try not to upgrade it unless you are going for s1 class or higher. (choose cars with naturally high handling stats.)
Leave off things like clutch, drive shaft, flywheel, and rims until you have only 2-4 PI left. Then fine tune the PI by adding different combos of those upgrades, starting with rims and drive shaft.
Tire pressure 27psi
Alignment =camber -2.0F, -1.0R, toe 0.1F, -0.1R, caster 5-6 depending on weight(inversely proportional to weight) *note that some cars come with preset alignment, ex. the Porsche GT3-RS is -1.0F/-2.0R, opposite of normal. but it’s engine is in the opposite end of the car, so it helps that particular car. leave those special preset values alone.
Then just drive around and open trajectory and check the heat distribution across the tires. Adjust the camber if the heat gradient is too severe (blue and red at the same time would be an extreme example) and set the tire pressure higher or lower to raise or lower the average tire temp into ideal range for grip (195-225 degrees F)
Attempt to max out your rear anti roll bar as far as you can. If you notice the inside rear tire lift off the ground or the car oversteers too much, you need to lower it until it doesn’t. usually between 50-65. Then adjust the front anti roll bar to balance out the feel of the turns. (For Forza tune 6 I just use the number it gives me without a correction factor) it’s usually between 20-25 for tarmac and 9-15 for off road. Softer corrects understeer, but not so soft that the body begins to roll.
Springs and dampers I use a calculator for, forza tune 6 is an app you can pay for… or you can use this free community created one here> https://forums.forzamoto…dable-in-word–pdf.aspx If you use forza tune 6 muy sliders are at 99% under/over and 160% stiffness. (Also for Forza tune 6 you must multiply the damper settings the app gives you by 1.33 to account for the different max values between FM6 and FH3.) This is also mainly where I correct under steer. Understeer = Soften front, Stiffen rear. What I do is use the springs mainly. I simultaneously soften the front by 5 points and increase the rear by 5 points until the car handles right. Remember that my stiffness slider is maxed so increasing the rear can get to a point where it is too stiff. I also always add an extra tick or two to the rear rebound damper (Forza tune 6 only). Over steer = Exactly the opposite of the steps for understeer. First try lowering the rear anti roll if maxed though. also consider playing with diff settings. tbh I don’t get a lot of problems here.
Aero is easy, use as little rear aero as needed for the rear end grip. you can increase front aero to correct understeer
Braking pressure is user preference, I prefer to fully depress the brakes without them locking until much slower speed. I reduce pressure to 80% balance between 55&52. Others, (faster than me “others” at that) increase to 145%pressure with no ABS on… I literally can’t even.
Diff for tarmac=front 15 accel, 0 decel. rear 50 accel, 0 decel. Front /rear =65-70%. For off road, 30 front 80 rear 65% *always 0% decel diff unless the car slides too much in the corners. I never go above 10% when needed.
What car is that using as an exapmple?
No specific car, just rules of thumb. General guidelines for upgrading and tuning. Every car is different, and will have small differences that are unique to that car. Getting around those and maxing out the cars potential is what takes time and practice.
Step one pick a track. step two pick a class. Step 3 pick a car for the track and give it the right drive type if it doesn’t already have what your looking for. If it’s a bumpy track with a few ramps and mixed surfaces awd will make it easier to drive more consistently. Consistency is key when your tuning. If it’s a flat track with long sweeping turns you want rwd and some areo depending on the grip and power your allowed in the class you picked. Step 4 pick springs instal roll bars and get a feel for the grip and power of the car as is. Go through corners and progressively turn tighter and the tighter untill you notice your car lose grip and get a feel for it. Grip and torque and angel will take you through corners, horse power will put you into the walls. Step 5 balance your car. Most people over look this but a well balanced car will increase your performance more than a stickier tire compound. I’d recommend balancing your car with the engine you want in it, and drive type. Try to get it between 54% and 46% wieght distribution for a well balanced car .I found that a car with 54% front to rear wieght distribution holds a real steady angle and gets the most out of all 4 tires. If your awd keep your front and rear tire widths even to get the most out of them. If your rwd even or up to a 10% increase in width to the rear tires compared to the front if you need to hold more angle. Step 6 test you gearing and powerband make sure you can steadily go through corners with out having to shift in the apex of the turn. Get a race transmission and race diff. If you don’t know how to tune gear ratios find a gearing calculator. You want your gears changes to be as smooth as possible, while staying in your engines powerband. Now go through a demanding turn and see if you have to change gears during the turn to stay in powerband. If you do hope you have enough pi points to upgrade your cam. It will increase your engine effective powerband to suit a wider gear ratio allowing you too shift less through turns with the right final drive making throttle inputs through long corners less sketchy. Once you found the right car, balance, tires and powerband for class you want to race on the track you selected, your ready for fine tuning. I start the car tuning the car from the softest possible settings on my rollbars, spring pressure and dampening. I max out the ride heights and 0 camber front and rear. This will let you feel all the movement from your car, body roll, and camber changes as the wheels go through the most spring travel at max ride height. From here I play with my spring rate first untill the car starts gripping and behaving the way I want for the track. open up the tellemitry hud for the spring rates and watch how your springs behave. You want to tune you spring pressure stiff just stiff enough so you don’t bottom out when your holding a corner and go through a dip. Now work on ride height and aerodynamics. Now balance you downforce with your cars wieght distribution and tire size. Too much and your tires will heat up to fast when you break and lose tractions. Keep in mind you car will get slowed down for every point into areo. If your areo is tuned right you will get an increase in grip for loss of acceleration and top speed. So a little is a lot in this case. When you have your areo locked in start hitting corners and start slowly lowering your car untill it’s just about to bottom out when you hit them dips while cornering. Reducting your ride height will reduce unnecessary body movment and help you hold grip through longer corners while reducing lap time from loss of grip due to body sway. When you got a good spring rate and ride height that doesn’t bottom out and decently holds an angle constantly on comer entry and exit with out fish tailing too uncontrollably.(can be fixed with diff but that’s latter) It’s time to move on to dampening. Again start with the front open up the spring rate tellemitry hud and tune your front rebound dampening untill its crunching at speed you comfortable with. Then increase rear bump dampening untill its crunching at a steady manageable rate. having your rear dampening a bit stiff than the front bump dampening will ensure your front tires stay loaded through a turn applying more grip to the steering tires. This will give more over steer and with the right grip will allow you to hold higher speeds through tight longe corners. Let move on to rebound dampening. Again start with the front. Open up spring rate hud and find a bumpy path like off road or some thing and start hitting jumps or what ever, while keeping an eye on your front spring rate. You want to increase rebound dampening untill the front of your car no longer lifts up violently during acceleration or after a jump. Stiffing rebound dampening helps keep your car to the ground by slowing the rate of speed your springs are unchrunching at. Stiffer rebound setting in your front springs to help load your front tires. Once your front springs uncrunch at with out whipping you into the back seat. Do the same for you rear dampening. By now your car should have a good gear ratio. Decrease you final drive untill you car hits its max speed allowed by your cars engine and areo dynamics setting. Keep it like this untill your almost finished tuning. You should have 0 chambering and toe. 1.00 front and rear roll bar stiffness, custom spring setting, areo, and dampening values.( you should have tuned your spring pressure some what close to your cars body wieght distribution if you have a balanced car with balanced tires, same with your areo dynamics except you want a little more in the rear to help with turning like 10-20% more force. And then you tune ride height to reduce as much body movment as you can without bottoming out. The difference between your front and rear ride height affects turning angle so if you have a balanced car keep it equal or you’ll get unwanted movment in one end and have a crazy entry angle you don’t have grip or suspension for.) your breaks should be untouched as well along with your diff. Now we go back to that long sweeping turn with a dip to tune for cornering grip and stability. Open up spring telemetry hud and get ready to watch all your out side front and rear spring rates, this is where the magic happens, the out side tires are what hold you to the ground when you turn. How hard you turn depends on the difference between the front and back tire during suspension travel. You want a stiffer rear bump setting to keep the front suspension in the wheel well just high enough you have enough suspension travel to run over a curb with out bottoming out and causing sudden loss of traction. Rule of thumb front bump dampening should be softer and rear bump dampening should be stiffer. Front rebound dampening should be stiffer than rear rebound dampening. When your watching the out side tires through a turn you want the orange bar for the front out side tire to move up at a slightly faster pace than the bar for the rear and the bar to move down at a slightly slower pace then the rear. The rates at which the bars move up are based on the difference between spring pressure front to rear and thier dampening( rebound and bump). Areo is also a factor it will act as dampening and wieght and will increase with speed. Stiffening bump dampening only slows the pace at witch the bar rises and can help stop bottoming out if ride height and spring pressure can’t be changedit also greatly affects corner entry. Stiffing the springs can slow the rate at which the bar rises but increase the rate the bar lowers making the car hop after it lands or takes a bump. You springs should be balanced with you car and it’s areo values and just stiff enough to prevent bottoming out at your desired ride height. Rebound dampening adjust the rate at witch the oranage bars squish. A stiffer rebound setting will make the bar squish slower and help keep your car from bouncing off the ground. Having a stiffer front rebound setting than the rear will load the front tire pushing the orange bar for the front springs up higher than the rear creating over steer during the end of a turn. You want to keep the orange bars for the rear lower closer to the starting line on the graph than the front at all time through a turn and you want them to hold steady. Once the out side tires spring are acting right it’s time to work on the inside. To do this you will need to increase your front roll bar untill the left and right front springs orange bars stay above both sides of thier rear counterpart through a turn. tightening the front roll bar ties the left and right front suspension together, to keep both on the ground when one tries to lift up off the ground reducing body sway incase you run over a bump on one side. you want to hold the same different between your front and rear out side tires on your inside tires of the turn if not slightly greater. One your springs handle your wieght predictably. Start tuning alingment. Don’t over do the camber use the tire heat telemetry hud to see if your tires are hold flat. Go to the drag strip and start doing a good sized figure 8 as tight and as fast as you can with out breaking traction. If all the temps are close to equal your done with chambering any addition oversteer that is needed must come from differential and roll bar dampening tuning. Or you will lose grip. One alignment is complete do some laps get your tires hot. Open up the tire hud that displays temp chamber and speed. Check your psi of your warm tires. You want your tires between 33 and 34 psi when your tires are around 210 degrees or what ever temp your tires stay at when your racing. Having more psi in your rear tires will create over steer, so if you still lacking over steer if you can get one to a half of psi diffrence between your front and rear tire while at peak grip you get controllable oversteer. Once your tires are tuned in it’s time to play with the diff. I’m not good at explaining it but when you find a setting that feels right your 2 steps away from a completed base tune. The 2nd to last step is gearing. Take your almost finished car through the track again and start increasing your final drive gear ratio untill you cut down 0-60 and 0-100 time. Your car only goes so fast don’t push it. You want to increase your acceleration by shortening your gears but not so much as to cause unnecessary gear changes through turns on your track. Once you have your car putting down power perfectly you tune your breakers for stability and balance. Most of the time you want to bump up your break balance to the left or more oversteer while breaking. It also puts more pressure on the front breaks where your holding all your wieght when you break. Because of this increase in breaking pressure in the front you want to reduce your breaking pressure to stop them from locking to fast. Don’t reduce it so much to where you can’t lock your breaks when it’s fully pressed down. You still want to be able to lock your breaks at the last 10-15% of tigger squeeze. This will help breaking response and reduce the amount of time you spend breaking while still reducing the chance of locking your breaks. I hope Rhodes helped I’m out.
Add me DominicBourneLG and I can teach you everything and more. Sometimes trying to read different guides doesn’t work and can get confusing. I have the perfect method for getting what you want
Think you would be able to help me with some of my builds. Some of them are like 10 mill.