In previous forza’s (since the 1st installment), I’ve shied away from tuning. I’ve had the urge lately to learn a new aspect to me of the game. Sadly, I bought the forza tune 5 calculator off the play store (at least it was only $2). Seems like it always has the tire psi at 28 on both ends of the car (no matter what), front and rear camber at -1.8 and -2.4 respectively, rear toe at -.1, and caster at 6.0. The gearing it gave me on the integra type r gave me a final drive that is too low for forza’s settings so I’ve been messing with the gearing for about an hour. I don’t use any assists other than the braking line. I’d say I’m the aggressive type who likes jam on the brakes going into a turn and jam on the gas coming out, so the diff is at 0 on front and rear. I’ve worked on easing on the brakes, and need some work on the gas. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and sorry for such a long post, just at my wits end.
The tuning guide is stickied in the section you just posted in. http://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst221_Tuning-Guide.aspx
You said you set your differential 0 in both front and rear.
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Accel is short for acceleration. The higher the setting the quicker the wheels will lock when getting on throttle That being said having it on 0 will greatly hinder your acceleration out of corners. Try to set is so that you are able to accel out of the corner as fast as possible without losing grip in your tires.
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Decel is short for deceleration. The higher the settings the quicker the wheels will lock when lifting off the throttle. That being said also having decel on 0 will have your car going fast (over-steer) around the part of the corner you are off throttle. Try to set it so that you are going as fast as possible off throttle through the corner, but under control. Don’t have it too low or you’ll have to much initial over-steer when entering a corner off throttle.
There is no fine tune for this alone you will have to tune all the other parts of the car to try and sync up as best as possible.
At best, calculators can only give you a baseline to start off from. And calculators are only based on your inputs and the developer’s knowledge. Therefore you would have to use them with discretion.
If you jam on the brakes and gas, there’s little tuning can help you. You should consider changing your style as smooth progressive input results in surprisingly high traction.
to generalize this is how i usually start a build with front engine rear wheel drive. I cant stress enough this is just the general numbers that i start with this is not the best way tune by no means.
Tire pressure 28.0/27.5
Camber -3.5 both
toe 0.0/0.0
caster 5.0
ARB take both down to 15.0
Springs Take roughly 150 pounds out of both
Damping Move both rebound up the same amount so they are above and below the 10
Damping Move both the Bump down the same amount so they are close to 2
Accel 40
Deccel 15
Brake bias 55% and pressure 140%
Again just a general starting point to get the car feeling better than stock normally. This will not work all the time but its where i start for Front engine Rear wheel drive most of the time
Are we tuning for stance here? I don’t understand why you would have it so extreme, especially on the rear.
no its my actual method. I know it doesnt make sense in real life but in forza world it does work as a great starting point. Dont knock it til you rock it 
I’m actually confused and don’t know how to respond. What ever works for you.
Thanks for sharing Johnson!
some of my cars have a 3.0 rear camber but thats usually as low as i go. It just gives the cars more grip thru the corners but if you dont want to try it no sweat of my back just something to try out.
Also it is not something that just works for me. A lot of tuners run high camber because of the added benefits it gives to the car
I know it doesnt seem right but just give it a run
Just want to add that I use Camber numbers from -2.5 to -4.0 all the time and it works great for me. The trend of more negative camber started with Forza 5 it seems. But it definitely does work. I use a similar approach as Johnson for a base tune.
Camber -3.0/-2.5 is where I start.
Also, Manual Clutch, in regards to Decel settings you said, “Don’t have it too high or you’ll have to much initial over-steer when entering a corner off throttle.” I am pretty sure that is backwards. Raising the Decel setting reduces off throttle oversteer.
You are correct. Thank you.
Also,
I would like to try a tune with these high camber -3.0 plus camber settings. Can I get a suggestion?
I tried my own tune and it was not good. It all came down to not having a big enough tire patches.
I got poor braking distance, a couple MPH slower on the straights and couldn’t accelerate apex to turn out fast enough.
the skyline has camber of 3.9
Thanks Claret. I was going to mention my CLK GTR for S class as well. Not quite that high but in the range.
Can anyone tell me what steps or what process i need to do to make my car have a smaller turning circle? Even if it’s just what things I could change. Thank you! (cars are going to be A/S class, and AWD or RWD with adjustable race diffs)
Sorry. Tried to add on last post but wouldn’t let me. Tye quoted post is correct but also wrong. If you adjust accordingly to your accel and decel tuning you can use which ever set up you wish. I run 0 accel and decel without issues as I have set up so that I carry more speed into the turns and geared fir max accel.