Forza 6 tuning app pros/cons

Hey y’all,

long time first time. Havent played racing games lately (Since Gran Turismo 3) as I have been wrapped up in Madden since 2008 playing somewhat competitively. I downloaded the forza tuning app and have tuned a variety of cars with great results. Seems that for F-RWD cars the rear differential settings are set at ACCEL 60% and DECEL 10%. I find that while exiting the corners if im not extra careful I will spin out or have to fight to control the car. Any ideas onto where I should set my rear diff as a base? Are the default settings in the app good? Perhaps I have a led finger. Any input would help. Thanks!

Ive never used the app but that diff your running isn’t horrible… Every diff can be different. If just one tire is spinning on accel out of the corner raise the accel number. If both are instantly spinning try lowering the number. More or the problem is most like either driver (lead finger) or the rest of the tune. Softening up the rear of the car will help but it will also make it oversteer so don’t soften up the rear to much cause then it wont want to turn.

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I see. I may try to raise the accel # when I get home. I see guys in the forums running a 25% decel vs my 10%. Does this value represent how quickly the car slows while coasting/downwhifting?

Ive tried that app ONCE. try lowering the acc down to 50 it seem to help me when I tried the app. U should try to tune on your own.

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There are like 3-4 threads that posed the same question awhile ago. Just search within this Tuners area and also in the General FM6 area and you’ll get lot’s of info previously posted.

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For differential, there are 2 basic parameters: HOW MUCH lock and WHEN it locks. In Forza, both are rolled into one (1) percentage number.

To put it simply, higher = more aggressive and lower = gentle.

ACCEL = higher is preferred but too high results in oversteer. For a powerful car, oversteer will occur with aggressive throttle input no matter the diff setting.

DECEL = lower is preferred but the car must brake hard in predictable manner. To induce lift-off oversteer, DECEL needs to be higher and closer to the ACCEL value (in some cases higher than ACCEL). So whenever the driver lets goes the throttle, the DECEL engages. DECEL may help with braking if the car has a lot of power and there’s uneven engine brake split between left/right tires. For this 100% DECEL will give best predictability but it would impede corner entry characteristics. 10% is almost nothing; I tend to stay at 20~40% range.

So a calculator usually provides basic/default ACCEL/DECEL values.

If you are spinning out at the exits, chances are likely that the ACCEL value is too high. Chances are also high the throttle input is too aggressive.

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Thats some good info. I may need to change my throttle deadzones maybe. I had a chance to do some tuning last night and bringing the accel percentage down some did help.

I use the Tuning AP/Calculator in order to get base tunes… I’ve don’t follow the calculator’s settings for DIFF & have found the default diff settings are much better (70 accel & 35 decal) that the 60/10 that the calculator suggests.

I also like putting the softness/stiffness setting on the calculator to 75%

Additionally, I also don’t follow the calculator’s braking suggestions either; my settings are between 52% & 48% balance & 130% pressure.

All of the above is for RWD vehicles.

I also use the Tuning Calculator for most of my own tunes, as a general ball park. For Career mode, I don’t ness with it much, but if I’m racing in Leagues or Rivals, I’ll nit pick the tune from the calculator for the best corner entry and exit for whichever track I am running in Rivals, and find a happy medium for Leagues as every track is different. But as others have stated, my braking and diff settings are my own. I don’t use the calculator’s settings for those, nor do I use the alignment ones anymore.

Here are my Basic settings I use for almost every RWD car as a starting point:
Alignment
Camber F: -1.8 R: -0.9
Toe F: 0.0 R: -0.1
Caster: 5.0

Braking
Balance: between 55% and 48% depending on how much front weight the car has
Braking Pressure: Usually around 120%

Diff
Accel: 70
Decel: 65

These are all my personal preference. The springs and Anti-roll bars settings I take from the app as a base, same with the shocks, and I adjust them from that point. AWD cars aren’t much different. I keep all diff settings for the rear the same as a RWD car, but for the front diff settings, I usually use 5-10% Accel, and 0% decel. And occasionally, I use 0% front accel because the front tires are pulling too much even at 5%, but this is rare. My balance is usually between 70-85%, depending how wild I want the rear of the car on corner exit. Some tracks need for wheel spin to get through the corner, and on some tracks, that wheel spin hurts more, then I’ll back the balance down a bit.

When adjusting the rear diff settings, only adjust the sliders in 5% increments. It will be noticeable for every change you make, good or bad, but it won’t be from one extreme to the other. Hope this helps.

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All my opinion - note I also drive with a wheel so there may be a disconnect here with gamepad users. Also note: if the tuning calc works for you - that’s great!

Pros:

None. The only one that seemed to have any real data behind it was the Forza 4 Excel-based calculator (that would have made a nice website). As for the Forza 5 / 6 apps it’s just generalized assumptions based on weight and weight distribution.

Cons:

It’s a short cut. I’ve actually started to enjoy the game more as I tune more for myself.

Again, it’s a one-size-fits-all math equation. Even as a base tune for me it’s worse than the default settings the game gives you for each car. The game’s default car settings are pretty decent all things considered.

I could take two different cars that weigh within ~10-20lbs of each other and same WD% and they act wildly different with the same springs rates, ARB, etc. This, IMHO, is not a “base tune”.

If memory serves nearly every car I tried with that App felt like a boat around the track. Driving with a wheel, it was even more of a struggle.

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IF your cars felts like boats with the app than you have no clue what your doing. All my cars handle the same and are very stiff, nimble, responsive and grippy.

Its a short cut? Ok. Tell that to the professional race teams that use powerful computers and sim technology to tune their vehicles to top performace. I have used the app for over 4 months now, repeatedly, im talking about every day (I play for about 6 hours a day) and about half that time is tuning, with the app. Im no advocate for the app and im certainly not selling it, but dont try to sit up here and say that it gives you a crappy base point because thats false. The app will give you the performance and characteristics that YOU want it to give you. It gives you a stiff balanced car and also makes the car very forgiving and much better control that some weight x percent front flash tune generalization. Prior to tuning with the app, i was lucky to come in 6th of 7th. Since using it I am consistantly in the top 3 in S class lobbies and in A class I can come in 1st 8/10 races. GTFO of here with that.

Here is a list of things you need to identify before you can adjust the suspension to aid in achieving improved suspension tuning objectives:

The car´s power to weight ratio.
Engine characteristics, including maximum BHP and torque levels.
Drive line configuration.
Current handling balance.
Weight distribution.
Aerodynamic downforce levels.
Tyre width and characteristics.
Track conditions, road smoothness, road camber changes, elevation, weather conditions, corner speeds, straight top speed, braking zones, apex kerbing and even if the track is used regularly or if it is a special event. Or if you want a generalised fast road set-up.

Im sure the calculator does all of this, right?

All except weather conditions.

As a user of this calculator. I have tried and used every one that has come out by this App creator. I did some testing today after reading this thread. I started with a GT86 on VIR Grand East. I also 6 hot laps per setup. Car setups are Stock Car. STock car w/Race Sus., Race Front and Rear Sway bars, plus a Race Diff running the Forza settings that come with the parts. Then I did a Base tune with the FM6 Calc. App. The result are very telling. I’m not the fastest racer but I strive to be very consistent. With that all said.

Stock Car - 3:20.758 Very easy to oversteer off power on turn in.
Race Sus.+ - 3:19.704 Still slides but not as bad.
App Base Tune - 3:16.800 Off power turn in was way more stable. On power out of turn had very little oversteer if any. The car felt very natural with got turn in if not push too deep in the turns.

I will do some more testing with the different car setups. Other RWD, FWD and so on.

I personaly like this App. So far I have been able to shave off a lot of times using it. Let me know if you would like the Base setup I tested.

Yes I would be interested in seeing your set up.

There is no question that this app works. It makes the car extremely stable. Quick tip, if you want your car to have that “on rails” effect which all the top tuners try to create, bring the stiffness all the way up to 160, bring over steer to 112-115% and bring decel all the way down to 0%-5%. There may be other ways to get that rails effect but this gives you maximum stiffness and high speed, stable turn in. Car just glides along the brake line at that point. Self tuners seem to think its sacrilege but when real race car teams use computers to maximize their cars i think to myself, why cant I? Lol

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Hi REKKLESS,

The Forza 6 Tuning app works well for me. I use it to get a base tune, and I’ve found some good starting settings for most cars. As with all tuning, the proof is in the driving. So adjustments will always be made. So, when I test the car, if I need more oversteer, I move the slider a couple of points toward oversteer and give it a try, and then rinse and repeat until I’m happy with the car. I’ve also started stiffening up the tune on some cars, and have been very pleased with the results. I’m getting better with this all the time.

What I don’t use it for is Diff Accel/Decel values and brake settings. These you always need to adjust for each car and/or personal preference. I also start with the Forza 6 camber defaults for each car and adjust these by driving the car and seeing how it feels, again, rinsing and repeating until it feels good. But the Forza 6 tuning app is awesome for setting consistent ARB, spring, and damper rates. It really speeds things up for me. Like you, I wanted a way to tune quicker and more consistently. And this tool provides a means to do this.

Regards,
Snowman

What are u setting the camber and caster at, at most times.

Yea the starting values for brakes and diff i dont really go buy. brakes i set in the range of 48/140 usually.

Also, for the bumb/damper settings I always add 2-3 to the recommended app setting for dampers and i decrease it by 2-3 for bump. ex.( app says for damper 6f and 8r. I will make it 9f and 11r. ) That way I dont have to worry about changes in alltitude and the cars wheels always stay planted. Same with bump just decrease it by 2-3 and you will eat up all the curbs. What im left with is a very stiff and stable car with great turn in and rides the brake line like a roller coaster.