If anybody is interested here are my wheel settings:
Steering deadzones:
Inside- 0
Outside- 100
Accel deadzones:
Inside: 10
Outside: 100
Brake deadzone:
Inside: 10
Outside: 100
Clutch deadzone:
Inside: 0
Outside: 100
Vibration: 100
FFB: 41
Degree of rotation: 270°
Explanation:
The TX’s FFB is STRONG and Forza is not exactly built for it as any setting over 60 creates unsmooth steering. Rotation angle is 270° as Forza doesn’t recognize the wheel as a wheel, but instead as a regular controller. Therefore, in game the cars steering actually only rotates around 180° either way. So, as a result 270° of rotation is the closest to what the game actually is capable of. I will continue to work with the steering dead zones to find the sweet spot, because right now my wheel turns more than the actual in game wheel therefore causing wheel lock up.
Its amazing how many people get fooled by this lol. The cockpit view wheel only goes 180, but if you pull up the telemetry you’ll see another little wheel. Thats the real one. You can use any dor from 270-900.
Good point, but why is my car in game locking the wheels up before my wheel is locked? If the game actually registered it correctly then it should continue to turn, right?
Not arguing just trying to figure it out as I just got it and am trying to figure out the best settings.
I tried for days to get my new tx458 ffb wheel to match the in-game wheel. I managed to get it about spot on but noticed I could turn the wheel past what would be the maximum travel for a controller which overheated the tyres to much. Gave up trying in the end and went back to the controller.
Shame really if forza had the option to remove the wheel from cockpit view we could run any wheel rotation that suited us.