Love the 920, been using it for over a week now and FM6 just payes incredible with it, brake for me is excellent realistic feel to what you would get in a car.
Has anyone else tried the shifter with the clutch though? For me it doesn’t quite work right because when set to manual/w clutch, I can still change gear on the h pattern shifter without using the clutch at all, also the gear changes seem to take forever and revs/momentum is lost
Can someone else test it for me?
I dont have the new Driving Force shifter, as I wanted to try with my G27 shifter before spending potentially unnecessary money on the new one. The internal shifting mechanism is the same anyway, the new one just doesn’t have the buttons and D-pad like the G27 shifter is all.
It will take some getting used too, but you could check your deadzones however. I have my clutch set to 5% inside, and 80% outside at the moment. Also, don’t be alarmed if the gears are crunching in the cockpit view. I think that is a bug, which has been present since FM5 at the very least.
Edit. By the way, the shifter isn’t set up like a real cars where you have to press the clutch pedal to move it into gear. You have to remember that in a real car when you press the clutch pedal in, it is to disengage the clutch plate so you can change gears without destroying everything in the process. It just takes a little time to get used to it, but you will do given some time using it.
ISRTV posted a quick review today:
I was really thinking about getting this wheel but I have 2 concerns. First is the dead spot at centre. Second is the low resolution of the pedals (255 steps I believe). I had poor luck with the reliability of the TX so I’m not interested in getting that though the new package with the TX base, T3PA pedals and leather 28 GT wheel is tempting.
I watched that review that you linked… I’d been looking for ISR to review this wheel over the last two weeks and it hit all the points I was concerned about. The pedal resolution is a bit of a concern as I’ve gotten accustomed to my Fanatec ClubSport Elite pedals. I’m hoping that Basher Boards will make an adapter that will allow me to use my ClubSport Elite pedals with the G920. That would be the best solution, I’m guessing, but there’s no guarantee that’s happening. I could live with the 8 bit resolution of the pedals if I have to. I know I suck so bad with the hand held controller that it would be a major step up for me.
My main concern is the dead zone chatter. I wonder if that’s something that could be worked out over time via changes to the firmware? Darin did say that the PC support was currently pretty bad, but he did mention that Logitech had contacted him that day, saying the they had a new beta version of the driver for PC games that they were sending him. I’ll be following their remarks as things develop on this front. Darin did say that the PC support for the G29 was much better than the G920, so there’s no reason to think they can’t come a lot closer to getting it right for the G920 before release in the USA.
That is less to do about the wheel, and more to do about how FFB is in Forza. As I said above, I had a TX at the start of FM5. And the deadzone was there on that wheel also. It is not a deadzone in the steering rotation, but the Force feedback. It could be alleviated by giving us a separate minimum and maximum force feedback slider, much like what is available in Assetto Corsa and iRacing on PC. Without those sliders on those two games, I had the same deadzone on the TX wheel. As well as on my G27 wheel.
As for the G920 on the PC, as I said above. The windows 10 driver is trash at the moment. Some people are using the wheel on earlier versions of windows though, and are not have too many issues. Certainly not the same as I experienced yesterday with it. Fortunately I still have my G27 wheel to use on PC in the mean time, but a lot of people will not have that option. I did get it to work in Dirt Rally however, and the wheel felt better than my G27 in that game. Plus it worked in other codemaster racing games, such as F1 2015. Again, it felt better than my G27.
And again towards the pedals, I have no issues with them. Nor even the pedals for the G27. The only difference between the G29/G920 pedals and the G27, is the better setup on the brake pedal. It feels more real, and is just much better overall. Sure they are not as good as the more expensive Fanatec pedals, or other more expensive sets. But they get the job done, and I am never sat here wishing I had something better for the job. They are certainly better than the default pedals available with the base Thrustmaster TX/T300RS though, but even those are still very usable.
That dead spot will be there with the TX wheel where Forza is concerned, it was there when I had a TX at the start of FM5. Which also broke, so I get where you are coming from with regards to the TX wheels reliability.
I have yet to be able to test the G920 on the PC though, as the windows 10 driver is rubbish. Let alone the severe lack of adjustability in the new Logitech Gaming software. It is so bad that I cant even play Assetto Corsa, as the wheel oscillates likes crazy. I did manage to get a few runs in Dirt rally with it however, and it seems pretty good on there. Actually felt a bit better than my G27 wheel. With regards to Forza though, the wheel is working really well. I am certainly not having any issues with driving, nor with the slight lack of force feedback at the wheels center. But then I didnt with regards to the TX wheel back in FM5, so yeh.
In terms of a wheel for the Xbox one, I think the G920 is worthwhile contender. Sure it is around the same price as the TX, but if you want a H-shifter; it ultimately works out cheaper. When you factor in the need to buy the 3 pedal set separately, plus the TH8A shifter that isn’t exactly cheap (£120 just for the shifter alone). With the G920, you only have to spend around £50 or so for the shifter. But the TX wheel, and the TH8A shifter does have much better tech behind it than the G920 does. It is all going to come down to just how much people want to spend in the long run.
As for the pedal resolution, I have never had an issues with it on my G27. And I highly doubt I will run into issues with it on the G920 either. But there are a lot of mods available for the Logitech pedal sets, as they have not really changed the design of them since the G25 released. So you never know what you will find, and how they may (or may not) improve the functionality of the pedals.
Thanks for your feedback Ialyrn. I’m still running Windows 8.2 on my PC, as it’s got some sort of corruption in its installation that won’t even allow me to attempt the Windows 10 upgrade… I can’t even get to my control panel due to something that got botched as I was doing initial startup of this PC. I’m going to have to address this issue eventually. Anyway, I understand what you’re saying about the deadzone chatter and hopefully, it’s something that will eventually be addressed in Forza 6. Darin Gangi and John Sabol keep beating the drum about the low resolution of the Logitech pedals. I’m probably not a skilled enough driver to notice the difference, but I do know that I totally love the feel of my Fanatec Club Sport Elite pedals, and I’m thinking I’m going to miss that. I’m sure the Logitech G920 pedals will be fine as an alternative.
It may be possible for someone to make a mod to use Fanatec pedals, but there are also a ton of mods out there for Logitech G series pedal sets. Going as far back as the G25’s. The low resolution really isn’t a problem though, and they are miles better than the base ones for the thrustmaster wheels. Some even say they are better than the T3PA pro pedals, but I dont know myself.
Here is a couple of my replays from FM6 using the G920 wheel, I drive without TCS/STM/ABS. and full 900° on all road cars. I have the telemetry showing, so you can monitor the throttle and brake. And I am also using the pedal clutch and my G27 H-Shifter.
Thanks for posting those links! I can’t begin to even sniff the lines you’re holding in those videos with the handheld controller. Worse than that, I find the controller to be too cumbersome to perform even autoclutch, manual shifting, let alone manual clutch shifting. I get scorched at the start of every multiplayer race in Forza 6 because of it also!
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Wow those are some solid laps, nice!
I for one seem to have some trouble with cars oversteering al the time.
I definitelynot new to the forza franchise but I am a new wheel user. I drive with tcs-stm-abs off, steering set to simmulation like I did when I was playing with the controller. Now however, I seem to get a lot of oversteer/movement/unbalance from the car when accelerating through corners. I have to be very careful, almost tiptoeing to and from apexes. This prevents me from getting fast laptimes and at times, frustrates the hell out of me… also I’m not able to counter any oversteering reaction from the car while using the wheel. When using the controller, this poses no problem at all.
Any thoughts or tips on this for me?
I would suggest turning off sim steering in all honestly, all it does is make things stupidly twitchy and very sensitive.
Another thing you can do, is to start of in the lower classes. This gives you a chance to adjust to using the wheel in slower cars, and allows you to work up to the faster ones. Using a wheel in a racing game incurs a big learning curve, and it can take some time to get good with one. Ive been using wheels on and off for years, so I have a lot of practice with them. That is the only reason I can put down a good lap with one, plus I have a G27 which I use on my PC with Assetto Corsa and other pc sims. Practice is all it really entails though, and you will pick it up soon enough. The biggest thing that helps though, is just been smooth with all your inputs.
Good to see a fellow AC driver here. How do you find it compares? To me AC have nailed ffb (well with my g27 they have) but fm6 feels wrong. Like I’m too scared to push the car if that makes sense. I was quite competitive with a controller on fm5 and I am on AC but I’m getting destroyed on this game and I think its due to lack of feeling.
Do you get that weird over steer that makes the whole car go inwards instead of outwards?
When I push too hard coming out of a turn the back end goes out and instead of going off the track and onto grass or dirt the car goes the wrong way and ends up in the middle of the track.
The mclaren P1 seems to do it all the time, its like driving on ice, even at very low speeds.
On F5 I have assists on pro and drivatars on pro, on F6 I have to turn both down a notch, without stability control I’m constantly rewinding.
Thank you for your feedback! I will try with the steering set to normal insteadof sim. I’mcurrently driving B/A cars so I guess I just should keep practicing smooth footwork while cornering 
Should I also keep the wheel at 540 or turn it up to 900 for smoother inputs?
So I’ve had no problems with this wheel until I join online multiplayer, I use 270 DOR for drifting due to lack of the H-pattern and it all works fine in test drive or free play, but as soon as I enter an online lobby, it somehow resets the wheel back to the factory settings, so it’s back to 720 or whatever the default is, and I just end up backing out and not playing.
Anybody else have this problem or know of a fix?
I am not having any issues with this at all, so I cant offer you a fix. But there is something that happens on the G27 and the G920, and its to do with the soft lock when you have a lower than 900° rotation set. It is really soft, and you can push past it very easily. But it doesn’t take into account any steering input past the the DOR you have set in the options. Is it possible this is what you are experiencing?
Also, the default DOR for FM6 is 540° according to a post that VoodooUomo made.
No it definitely switches to a higher DOR when I join a mulitplayer lobby, I have to spin the wheel lock to lock, unlike in test drive it’s just side to side.
I did some checking earlier when I got on the Xbox, and you are right. The wheels rotation is setting to 900° when connecting online if you are using less than that. I hadn’t noticed the issues because I hadn’t been into a drift hopper until today. I had just been racing and hotlapping in road cars, so my DOR was set to 900°. So it is a real issue. A pretty game breaking one in fact, at least when using the Logitech G920 wheel. As it does not, to my knowledge anyway, have a hardware level DOR adjustment like the Logitech G27 wheel does. This will not be an issue for Thrustmaster TX users however, as they can select the DOR on the wheel itself, which will override the setting set on the software level by the game.
Yea it’s taken a lot away from the game for me TBH as I spent a lot of my time drifting with people. It’s a really strange “glitch” and I thought it was just me experiencing it or had a duff wheel until I posted in the wheel thread in the FM6 section and someone else is having the same issue, and now you reporting it, aswell. It just seems there’s so few people who actually have a G920, let alone ones who drift, I can’t see this being fixed sometime soon, if at all. Which is really, really annoying!
It seems all wheel settings are reset when changing car, closing the game completely and loading again is the only way I know of that gets the settings back, works in career but I don’t know about online.