This build is for an M4 GTS, yes? Once I get home from school I’ll play around with the settings a bit. What’s the build on the car if I may ask?
EDIT: Also what track do you prefer testing at?
Honestly, any car with adjustable suspension. Just take T10’s damper settings and flip them. I test everything on the Nordschleife mostly, but any track will do. You should instantly feel the differences. Letting off the throttle mid-turn will make your turning radius tighter unlike what happens with T10’s default tunes. Trail braking is actually a thing using my method. You won’t lose traction when driving over the curbs. Getting through the grass is much easier.
All cars with the dampers flipped just feel better.
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This sounds interesting, which settings do I need to swap around? Im up for anything that makes some of the car handle better, im going to giv eit a whirl later tonight. 
Just swap the bump and rebound settings. Bump becomes rebound and vice versa. Don’t swap fronts with rear tho.
Much appreciated, like I said, im going to give it a go later.
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Got around to giving the damping thing a try
I took a BMW M2 and threw on race springs, ARBs, weight reduction, and roll cage, as well as a race differential, clutch, and sport transmission. I didn’t adjust the ARBs much other than to balance the car better in steady turns and I adjusted brake balance rearwards so the wheels would lock up at the same time, but left the other settings mostly untouched.
Stock bump settings were 4.7 for both front and rear, and the stock rebound settings were 7.1 front and rear. I ran some laps at VIR Grand West with the stock damping settings and the damping settings reversed (7.1 bump front and rear, 4.7 rebound front and rear) and I switched a couple times just to be sure I had a feel for both.
Overall I feel it didn’t make a night-and-day improvement, but there were differences in “composure” between the two. With the reversed damping settings it seemed the front end would point into the corner but it wouldn’t “stick” to its trajectory, instead it would skitter towards the outside of the corner. The high speed bits between turns 6 and 10 were also more difficult to take with the reversed settings; I suspect it’s the high bump and low rebound causing it to skip off of the curbs. As for the rear end, that’s a little more cloudy for me. Both stock and reversed damping settings didn’t make a huge difference for me, maybe the reversed settings suffered from the curbs more and caused the car to oversteer. An ARB adjustment might’ve improved the rear end composure better than dampers alone.
Final verdict for me is that I prefer the feel of the stock settings over the stock settings reversed. But I thought it was worth testing… Sometimes with Forza a fast tune might have some counter-intuitive tuning adjustments 
Did you zero out the anti-geometry stuff? I haven’t tried the M2 yet. It may be an outlier.
That is what I experience with the default tunes ^^
Yeah I zeroed out the anti-dive and anti-squat, forgot to mention that. Kinda wish it was zero by default, but oh well 
Werd. I found that I have a ton more grip and response flipping the dampers on nurburgring in M4 GTS, M3 GTS, 911 GT3 RS, 911 GT2 RS, 997 911 GT3. Oh well. I guess this isn’t for everyone. I still think there’s something wrong, but maybe it’s not that these labels are flipped. There’s no good reason that these cars should lose the rear end so easily when braking during turning using T10 default tunes. The defaults should be much more dialed.
I just tested this same car ( '23 M2 ), and it is indeed an outlier. Maybe what I’m experiencing only works on cars that aren’t new to Forza? Mind trying again with something older? Like the M4 GTS or E46 M3. When I did this to the E46, it felt as good as it does in GT7. Firmly planted but nimble.
PS. I’m a bit miffed that you made me drive the most hideous BMW in history tho 
I’m alright with trying a different car. I’ll probably go with the M4 GTS being I can also reference the settings in the first post.
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I have seen some very odd physics with cars native to FM7 that have been brought into FM. They handle differently, setup differently. I don’t think those cars have been matched the the physics model of FM. And you might be seeing this in your testing.
Use telemetry and common sense, is not DIFFICULT.
BUMP to min and Rebound to MAX. you will see your suspension line stay on the Bottom of the travel
BUMP to MAX and Rebound to min. you will see your suspension line stay on the Top of the travel
You are Welcome
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I don’t know exactly what’s flipped but a similar setup that I could run on FH5 doesn’t seem to work, even with some tweaks. Bump, Rebound, tire pressures that used to work no longer do either. There used to be a default tire pressure but all are completely different with every car.
Normally it wouldnt take me this long to come up with a solid base tune but I’m still sorting through it and we can all assume this system will be pasted to FH6.
I gave this test a tryout using the Dodge Stealth as the test bed. With a reset to baseline setup first so as to eliminate any previous tuning interference. Ran a series of tests with the default settings, then bump max rebound min. Bump min rebound max, and then bump rebound at mid-point.
With telemetry on and set to the shocks page. The observations made during the four tests, there was very little variations in the compression, expansion characteristics of the telemetry readings. Furthermore, the variations in the handling of the car was minimally noticeable between the extremes, the default, and the mid-point settings.
I would (just a suggestion) take that same set of tests and find the track with the most aggressive curbs, clip each corner tight and see how the suspension reacts.
Also, I would zero out any of the “Anti” settings (dive and squat) as they can interfere with how your bump and rebound react while driving.
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I’ve found that this is a bad idea more often than not. Lately I’ve been leaving the anti-geometry in place and just adjusting the dampers and springs to match IRL setups and getting really good results. A lot of times the default alignments are the culprits of many of the handling issues. More often than not there’s just not enough negative camber. Watching the outsides of the tires get hotter than the insides while cornering in telemetry is a telltale sign. Temps should be pretty even in this scenario with MAYBE a smidge more heat on the inside and middle.
I don’t really think that the dampers are reversed now tho. Just really wonky settings as defaults. Still don’t quite feel right, but this isn’t real life either.
I suggested it so they could test whether the dampers are flipped or not. This has nothing to do with finding a proper setup. In this case, they are going to the extreme ends of bump and rebound to see if they are backwards.
Sure. I can’t tell. Something just feels off. Is why I made this thread in the first place. I have found recently that lowering rebound has helped quite a bit so maybe rebound is just too high. Especially for the Nordschleife.
Just tired of losing the rear end on curbs. Cars get unsettled REALLY easily in this game.
Basically this is what I did. Without the wolfox posting the specifics to his test all I can conclude is that his statement is not repeatable.