Does anyone have any tips on how to shift on manual w clutch correctly (i.e. shift without that gear breaking sound) and how to not break transmission with shifting when sim damage is on? Please and thanks.
let me guess you use one of the in car views.
Sometimes.
there is a bug that that view, it always crunchies for me in the two in car views.
depends on your gear box, the racing gear box doesnt crunch. Makes sense as its designed for quicker gear changing. If you take a standard gear box, to change without crutching you have to engage the clutch then shift up and its painfully slow to not make it crunch. With the racing gear box you can bang both clutch and gear shift at the same time. lifting of the throttle slightly. I have tried with controller and shifter.
One thing to check is open up the telelmetry and press the clutch pedal or button and see if it engages 100%. you might need to change the deadzone thing on it. when i used my controller the first time and checked the clutch was engaging at 80% for a full button press.
might help
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Is there any advantage to playing with manual clutch? In FM7, there is a nice advantage but I am questioning that in Horizon 4. Reason is I just set my shifting to automatic for a race just so I can multitask, and won it easily with unbeatable drivatars. What do most people use online? I am getting killed online in Horizon 4, but am near the front in FM7 mostly.
It’s very easy, you need to put Clutch on A button, shift up with B and shift down with X. Then you need to press both buttons together for up shift or downshift. You don’t need to lift the throttle, you can upshift and downshift having pushed the throttle. good luck
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Clutch in > shift > clutch out. There is no gear grind bug. There used to be a gear grind sample in chase camera, too, in older Forzas. Now, it only plays in 1st-person views, and it’s very sensitive to any activity, press or release, to the gear change buttons, if clutch isn’t engaged.
This is a very quick sequence of steps but…
clutch in
almost same time release pressure on throttle
change gear
reapply throttle.
There is more of a delay required when changing gear if you have an old/poor gearbox.
Done correctly there is no speed loss.
Why do so many around here insist on spreading poor information? Literally hit the clutch and the gear change button at the same time. I am not saying you wont get a poor noise but it will not damage your transmission. The reason for the damage the transmission would be poor timing, which by result is shifting without the clutch. There is no need to lift throttle at all and it is slower. This does not matter if you have race gearbox or clutch etc. Shifting this way also completely negates the need for a clutch upgrade, the clutch upgrade is only necessary if you use manual or auto as it will speed up the computers shifting but when you are the clutch its not needed.
Yeah you don’t have to but the OP’s asking how to rid the noise of the rev limiter.
Baby Cow - I’m able to lift throttle, change gear, reduce rev limiter noise and negate speed loss. It’s not poor information from my part trust me.
Must just be because I’ve been doing this for many years and I’m used to it but you’re right… it doesn’t make you faster by trying to rid the untidy rev limiter noise and that sound has been around for a long as I can remember. When I say lift throttle I’m talking about by 10 - 20% on the trigger and the action is probably less than 0.5seconds. It’s very quick but most of the time it rids the noise.
Sorry if I wasn’t clear enough. I’ll post a video if you need to see it.
Simple maths would prove that thats still a huge disadvantage. This is obviously dependent on car/track. Example a track like watkins including boot, lets call it a 1:45 lap time. Just a rough estimate on something fairly normal like a gt3 car. I am going to base it on a flying lap. You are going to go into your final gear on the start finish. So from the line back to the line Start finish straight 3 shifts, down to 3rd (being conservative might even be second depending on gearing) for turn 1, 3 shifts back to 6th before the chicane, down to 3rd for the chicane (conservative again). Should get back to 5th so 2 more shifts, Down to 2nd for turn 6. Should get back to 5th before 7, so thats 3 more shifts, Down 3 gears to 2nd for turn 7. The back straight will be 6th gear so thats 4 more upshifts, back down to 2nd gear for turn 8. Will likely only get back to 4th so thats 2 more upshifts, then down to 2nd gear for turn 9. at least 2 gears up before turn 10. Usually a downshift at turn 10 and 1 more back up before 11 and a downshift into 11, then the start finish straight again.
I may have miscounted but I believe thats 21 upshifts for a lap at watkins which is a fairly momentum based track with a few longer straights. You are saying that the process is .5 seconds 21*.5 =10.5 So for 10.5 seconds of a lap you are at 80%-90% throttle instead of 100%. 1:45 lap is 105 seconds, 10% of the lap. Lets compound that even in forza world of 3 lap races. Thats 30.5 seconds of 10-20% less throttle than everyone else (if you are racing serious competition). 10% of the race at 10% less throttle could result in 3 seconds over the course of the race, or a second a lap. Thats enough to handicap even the top players and make them reachable. Just curious how this is not poor information or advice?
The op essentially posed a 3 part question. So yes you did answer the question of how to not make the noise, but not the main question of how to shift manual with clutch correctly and how not to break the transmission. The #1 most effective way is without a doubt clutch shift same time, no damage is done to the transmission and it’s the fastest way.
The only time damage is done to the trans is when shifting without the clutch so another bit of advice for op which was stated in post #7. Map the clutch to a as it is much easier to press both the clutch and gear change button when it can be hit at the same time with 1 hand. Trying to use the LB is silly and often doesnt allow for good or fast timing.
O.k I get what you’re saying and I can actually gear either way depending on how I feel - the whole reason I started releasing throttle was because of the annoying sound as I have always used bumper view.
Releasing throttle a tad or not, I have always engaged the clutch before the gear change button(I really am talking a fraction of a second here by the way) and I incorporate the releasing of throttle in this process at the same time as the engaging the clutch.
The net time taken for ‘not releasing throttle’ vs ‘releasing throttle’ would be almost 0 seconds or at least it feels that way and I’m not releasing the throttle significantly enough to impact speed as the throttle is reapplied at the point of gearing up/down. On downshifts it actually helps me regulate and rev match as I have already disengaged the throttle slightly, which is very helpful in high class race cars running no TCS.
I’ll be honest half a second is probably too much time for the whole process.
I’m always open to learning new things though BC and I know you’re a very quick driver and have the utmost respect for so if there is an advantage to pressing clutch + gear change at the same time then I’ll probably start doing that instead.
EDIT: Gonna do an exercise later on, maybe the weekend and I’ll record telemetry. Just a straight line acceleration through to top gear using both methods.
I dint go to this side of the world much but do a drag race will easily tell you what the actual difference is. Same car full throttle takeoff and shift at redline on both that way the only variable is the lift.i agree with you it’s probably not actually .5 as that’s a lot. But u said it so I used it to prove what I was saying.
Yeah I’m gonna give it a go later because I actually want to know how much difference it makes now if any.