Do you need tunes? Check out my storefront for all your Horizon Edition cars, off road tunes, all my personal rivals tunes and much more.
Follow HOONIGANGSTER for all your tuning needs, with 270 tunes to choose from. Most of my tunes will be upgraded to a certain class and can be use for online/rivals play in that class competitively. Recommendations for each class are as follows.
D class; Alpha Giulia sprint GTA, Ford coupe 32
C class; Holden Monoro, Holden Torrana, Polaris rockstar edition buggy
B class; Holden Monoro, land rover defender, Subaru 22B
A class; Ford coupe 32, Ford Cobra 93, Mitsubishi Evo8, 2017 Ford Raptor
S class; Ferrari 250 Testa Rosa, Ferrari 360 CS, Dodge Charger Daytona, Plymouth Prowler, Holden Torrana HE, 04 Subaru WRX, RJ Anderson Polaris Pro truck, Subaru #75 WRX rally car, Rally fighter (especially great at playground games!) & many more
S2 class; Ford GT HE, Lamborghini Hurrican HE, Gallardo LP570-4 Superleggera, Avetador 2012 & 2016, Porsche GT3 RS, Koenigseg one:1, Regera & Agera. OFF Road S2; Rally fighter, Lamborghini Urus & Veneno(especially great at playground games!) Porsche 918
X class; Porsche 918, Lamborghini Sesto Elemento, Ferarri 458 speciale, Koenigseg One:1, Doge Viper SRT10 ACR HE, Ultima Evolution 1020
PR stunts Tarmac
Drift zones; D class - Alpha Giulia sprint GTA
Speed zones; X class - Lamborghini Centenario
speed cameras - Jaguar D-Type, Ford GT HE, Lambo Centenario, Porsche 918, Dodge dart.
New tunes for cars coming out regularly. Always use the most recent tune I have uploaded, as I do come back to cars from time to time and iron out bugs I may not have seen last time.
Do you have a Nissan 370z Drift build or do you know a car that’s easy to drift with
the 2017 focus HE is a good drift car. BTW lookin for a good ford GT 2017 HE AWD grip tune.
Hey all I’m looking to build a BMW M5 as a drifter does anybody have a tune for this?
I will start on the 370Z and the M5. By the way, which year M5 did you want? I usually just use the ford focus HE for drifting and the tune is in my storefront already. It’s rather close to perfect suspension settings as stock. The Ford Gt HE AWD tune is up in my storefront already. Be sure to use the most recent version. anything from November or earlier is likely got stock suspension and dampers settings.
Looking for a pagani zonda grip tune. It’s for Goliath Goliath so I need some top end too lol any help? I’ve learned that RWD can’t compete in online races. Everyone has AWD… Can’t beat em? Join em! It sucks because I love RWD
First of all I would like to thank you for suggesting that I make this tune. I must say I love it! So stable its like it’s on rails! at first I left the Zonda RWD because I thought It didn’t need a AWD swap… but damn was I wrong. I got a 9:30 lap on goliath with it.
The tune is up in my storefront.
THANKS!!!
I need an A class touge circuit/street race tune for any JDM car you think is best. I like oversteer
Ok, I’m thinking Skyline R33 or the 2005 NSX. do you like AWD or RWD?
RWD since for A class since there wouldnt be that much power and I could get more oversteer out of it. I don’t have a preference for car out of the r33 or NSX, so whichever is faster. Thanks in advance☺️
You would think so… but I just tuned a monster NSX! I’ve been tuning it since I posted last. I kind of guessed you would go with the NSX for oversteer. 250+MPH top speed on the highway isn’t bad for an A class car. And yes lots of nice predictable oversteer 
Wow nice!!! Thanks for making the tune. I can just find it by searching your GT right??
Yes. Search his name and you will find them.
Yes, it’s in my storefront.
Wow, lots of people messaging me for tunes!
If you like them, please Like them in game by going to the load tune screen. Or drop by here and let others know you liked them.
Just finished redoing all the HE cars and a few of the playseat car pack cars.
Also I recently hit Elite Tuner rank. Thank you all so much for downloading & using my tunes.
Well I hit the save limit so I went through and cleaned up my storefront a bit. Making room for new tunes, updating old ones.
It’s a slow process, but you should stop by and try some of my new work.
I thought I’d share my upgrading and tuning process.
A few rules of thumb for upgrading tuning.
-Always do a AWD swap, you wont be competitive without it. Very rarely a car will be better as the stock drivetrain, such as the Hellcat HE, F-40, F-50, P1, etc.
-If you are doing A or S1 class, try using the 6.2 liter V8 or the 8.4L V10. You might get more power out of them than the V12.
-You want the supercharger conversion if you are going for anything other than a maxed out build. Note that you can try using a centrifugal supercharger instead if you need a bit more PI room.
-Engine upgrades in order of importance; supercharger, displacement, pistons, fuel, ignition, exhaust, intake, valves, cams.
-Almost-Never buy the intercooler or oil as they tend to cause understeer. *In cases where the car already had an intercooler or the added weight actually helps the weight distribution%, it may actually be a worth while upgrade. Look carefully.
-The fly wheel costs too much PI and I rarely pick it up, unless I have bought everything else and am just looking for a little more Pi to hit the limit…
-Always buy the following; Race suspension, Race Anti Roll Bars front and back, Race Trans, Race Diff, AWD swap, maxed Rear Tire Width, Supercharger, at least Sport Weight Reduction.
-Try to get; Race Weight, Aero front and back, Sport Stiffening, Brake upgrade as needed.
-Only buy the roll cage IF you have left over PI. (sometimes buying the cage will make it worse, look carefully)
-The biggest PI increase in the world is tire compound. Try not to upgrade it unless you are going for s1 class or higher. (choose cars with naturally high handling stats for lower classes.)
-Leave off things like clutch, drive shaft, and rims until you have only 2-3 PI left to go. Then fine tune the PI by adding different combos of those upgrades, starting with rims.
-Generally I try to get the most HP out of the engine as possible, as power is king in FH3.
-Leaving the front tire width stock on most cars will work. However, I try to keep the front width no more than 100mm thinner than the rear. Any more than that and the front wheels tend to loose grip before the rear.
For tuning I use an app called forza tune 6 (made for FM6) & I have developed a few tricks to get the best tune.
-Sliders at 85% over/understeer (all things), 160% stiffness for race suspension, 95% stiffness for rally suspension.
-Springs & ride height, use the apps settings.
-To account for the different max values between FM6 & FH3 for the dampers setting, you must multiply what the app gives you by a correction factor of 1.33. This is only for tuning Race Suspension! For example, the app says that the damper setting is 6.5. So, 6.5 X 1.33 = 9.044 So 9 is the setting you use. Never round up on the front end of the car as a softer front helps cornering.
-For Rally suspension use the apps results, no math needed.
-Use the apps results for the front ARB and 60 rear on all race spring tunes. For rally tunes use the apps results for the front and 50 for the rear.
-To find out what downforce to put in the rear when using the stock wing, equip a forza spoiler and copy that number into the app before taking it off again.
-Use as little rear aero as you can get away with to increase top speed & acceleration when using the forza spoiler.
-If you need to play with aero, always recalculate the springs.
-Set tire pressure to 20F 50R & camber to -1.3F, -0.7R. Then just drive around to warm up the tires and open trajectory by holding down on the Dpad. Check the heat and tires misc tabs & check the heat distribution across the tires. A 20 degree F difference between inner and outer is optimal for the front tires & 5-10 degrees for the rear. Make sure that the inner part of the tire is hotter than the outside. Lower the camber towards zero if the heat gradient is too severe/>40degrees F (blue and red at the same time would be an extreme example)
-Set the tire pressure higher or lower to raise or lower the average tire temp into ideal range for grip (tires will be clear).
-You want the average temp front & back to be as close to each other as possible. While being a little warmer in back to help prevent understeer. Use the temp reading in tires misc tab of trajectory for average temp.
-Tire pressures most often end up being 20F/50R, however some cars (mostly hypercars) will need special settings such as lowering the rear tire pressure to 20 and raising the front to 50 in order to get balanced temps
-If you go below 20psi, turn in response becomes too sluggish and if you go over 50psi the wheels tend to spin too easily.
-Sometimes you will max the front tires at 50 but still have light blue on the outsides of the front tires, this can be Ok sometimes as the tires will take longer to over heat and loose traction in hard corners. You can also try increasing the front aero to put more force on the tires and attempt to raise the temp that way.
-For all rally suspension tunes! Open the “tires misc” tab in trajectory while you are standing still on level ground (airport runway) and ensure that the camber setting matches what you put in the tuning section. If not then use the telemetry read out as your actual camber and adjust the tuning settings to get the telemetry in the right range(-1.3F, -0.7R).
-Preferably the Toe will be 0 front, 0rear. Use toe at your own risk.
-Brakes are total user preference. I reduce pressure to 75% so I can pull the trigger all the way without the brakes locking up. others like 145% because it more closely resembles the way a real brake pedal feels. The choice is yours. I typically use 2-3% to the front for balance.
-DIff settings… Tighter = higher percentage. Looser = lower percentage. “Loose is fast, fast is loose.” Too loose however means less traction. My most used settings are 10/0/30/10/75 (Front accel/decel/rear accel/decel/split) but some cars require less decel diff or more accel. You just have to feel it out car by car.
-For fine tuning remember the rhyme "To fix Understeer, you Soften front & Stiffen rear. (springs & bump dampeners)
-Now drive around and feel the car. If when you turn in, the car stops turning in and/or begins to smoke the tires, you got understeer 
Go back to the forza tune app and lower the over/under slider by 2-3 percent and retune the suspension. Try your new settings and repeat as necessary until the car smoothly whips around turns without the tires screeching.