I’ve been working on improving my tuning and I’ve come up with some different ways that seem to be working for me. I am trying a different strategy when attacking my tuning set ups and I was hoping some of you might be able to help me test these tunes out. I like the feel of both cars and so far I’ve been getting very similar times with both tunes. I haven’t used either online, only in free play or Vintage career.
If you have a moment and are willing to help, could you please try each one out and let me know which A) Which one you like better B) Which one lapped the track faster and by how much C) Any suggestions or critiques for the tune. I greatly appreciate any constructive input, thank you guys.
Car: 1969 Ferrari Dino 246 GT
Class: C500
Upgrades:
Front and Rear Forza Aero
Remove Rear Bumper
Street Tire Compound
Enkei RPF1 Rims @ 16" Front and 17" Rear
Race Brakes
Race Springs
Race Roll Bars Front and Rear
Race Weight Reduction
Sport Chassis Reinforcement and Rollcage
What front and rear tyre width changes did you make? If I put 235s on the front and 275s on the rear it brought me to C500. I ran both tunes around the full Top Gear test track and tune 2 was much faster for me. More than a second quicker than tune 1. Hard to tell which changes made the difference though, there were so many LOL. Both tunes felt good to me. Tune 2 Camber, ARB and Brake settings were much nearer to how I would set mine up.
Hi there, I’ve also just started to get the hang of tuning and having trouble getting tunes tested. I can get a good base tune, and can start fine tuning but its the really minute details on it that Im still struggling with. I generally get it going pretty well for how I drive but there will just be a tiny thing off, if I manage to fix it I end up breaking something else and usually end up reverting.
Anyway, Id love to help out but I dont have the DLC for that car. If you have any others you want me to take for a spin Id be happy to help though Im not exactly great at this. I just think driving other cars and helping with troubleshooting would be a good way to learn myself.
Additionally, if you have a spare moment Im looking for the same thing for my Ford Cortina. Search my name ‘Ruddy88’ and the tune us ‘B Grip’.
Any other rides you want me to take for a spin just let me know.
P.S: Are you a livery artist? I think I have you fave’d, name rings a bell.
Due to PI I didn’t change the tire widths. I do remember having several discussions regarding the Race Cams and Cams vs Supercharger but this car was built before then and I was changing the tune and forgot to go in and redo the build. I know lots of things changed between tunes, I used two different methods of obtaining my base tune before fine tuning everything. The second does some things I don’t understand but tends to run a higher Accel Diff and much softer springs across the board than I did in the first one yet it feels much more solid and held down in the rear even coming out of turns on throttle. I know it has to do with the other suspension settings but I don’t understand where or why that is happening.
I didn’t realize the Ferrari Dino was a DLC car, are you sure? I’ve done some liveries that I share, but I’m no the greatest. Lately I do one or two infrequently due to time constraints and the fact that I’d rather tune and race than paint. I appreciate the favorite. Like you, there are the basics of tuning that I understand, some things I know to do that are game specific and are just the way they are but the really minute details often elude me as well. That’s why I love helping people with what I do know and, hopefully, getting help and learning about the parts I do not know.
I’ve done a similar experiment on the Mazda RX-3 which does not have completely finalized tunes and probably never will because I’m going to rebuild it or retune it before using it again when that time rolls around and it’s a DLC car. I have several cars I used (primarily for the Vintage career) that I am looking into changing because they all were done with the Tune 1 method and I’m starting to lean towards the Tune 2 method. The cars are: Ferrari Dino, Ferrari 250 GTO, Ferrari F40, Ford Escort RS1800, Ford F100 (though this one is pretty good, I just want to see what happens), Lotus Elan Sprint, Ford Fiesta, and VW Golf R32.
EDIT: I think the Rims may have been a visual thing??? I can’t recall.
Nurburg Gp
Tune 1 - 2.18.678 - Felt very loose under decelleration.
Tune 2 - 2.17.480 - Had more grip,wasnt as loose under decel,felt alittle stiff to turn.
I think you are loosing valuable PI by using the race transmission in this car,I didnt use a roll cage in my build. And i think the cams are a no no on most cars,they produce hp but little torque,torque is your friend,as is aero,i recommend full aero for most tracks,the only tracks i run lower/minimum aero on are sebring,rd america,bathurst,le mans,nur sometimes,i noticed you raised the rear rim size,try raising the front before the rear on rwd cars,alot of the top times are setup this way,im told it improves turning response but i rarely do it,i dont like my cars to wear clown shoes lol. Here is my build and tune,compare to your own and see what im saying about using the pi better to your advantage. My tune is not perfect either,it still has a little oversteer under power if your not smooth,i have spent 10-15laps messing with it. I run a 2.16.275 at nurburg gp in my own build.
Build…
Sport Intake
Race Carburetor
Race ignition
Race Exhaust
Race Valves
Race Displacement
Race Pistons
Race Brakes
Race Springs
Race Roll Bars Front & Rear
Race Weight Reduction
Race Differential
Street Tires-Stock Width Front & Rear
Sport Rim Style-Wedssport TC 105 N Rims
16 Inch Rims Front & Rear
Should Get…
291hp Your Build… 283hp
247lb-ft 212lb-ft
2,030lbs 2.071lbs
Oops I misread race cams and installed race pistons and valves instead, hence the PI discrepancy. I never install race cams for the reasons General Swift outlined. Sorry for the confusion. Out of interest, later on I will build the car with the race cams and do a comparison of tune 2 again with stock tyre widths
OK, I rebuilt the car with Race Cams and stock tyre widths and ran a 1:19.3 using tune 2. This was around a second faster than my previous efforts.
I then tried getting rid of the Race Cams and trading the PI for Race Air Filter, Sport Intake Manifold, Race Valves and Race Pistons. The result was only a marginal improvement to a 1:19.2. Perhaps the Race Cams are not such a bad upgrade path after all LOL. My driving is not the greatest and to be honest a 0.1 second change could be down to my dodgy exits from the hammerhead in 2nd gear. My throttle control is not the best and it was fairly easy to spin the wheels up
I then tried General Swift’s build with your tune 2 and ended up with 1:19.2 again. After changing the settings to General Swift’s I managed a 1:19.1.
I’m not sure what my conclusions are from all this but your Tune 2 was best, Race Cams do not deserve such a bad reputation and my driving could be improved LOL.
Thank you. I don’t think the Race Cams deserve a bad reputation but they are not always the best upgrade choice. If you want better accel all around (And out of corners) the better upgrade is a Centrifugal supercharger because it is run on engine RPM and increases power exponentially the higher up in the RPM band you go. This car doesn’t have that option and I went with the Cams - maybe I could make different changes to help the car out of corners, but we’ll see. I’ll keep playing with it and try a similar build with different upgrades or stick with the General’s if I like it. I haven’t had a chance to try it yet.
Thank you for the time information. In an actual race or online the 0.2 seconds can be a huge difference, but so far for mostly free play and the leagues it makes no difference what so ever.
